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Power Club 496 2-8 Sept (Read 24155 times)

Fiend

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#75 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 11, 2019, 12:02:26 pm
Someone beat me to it! I thought barras was a training pro, where in his 18 page aero-pow systems pdf does it mention cheesey trance FFS  >:(

SA Chris

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#76 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 11, 2019, 12:28:58 pm
I hope you meant listening to it, not trying to sing it. That would be a bit much.

Imagine Barrows singing this before a redpoint;


abarro81

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#77 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 11, 2019, 12:52:54 pm
Standard. In my luminous green shorts, kneepads and tops off, rubbing chalk into my moobs  (what's she doing at 0.50??) for speedy chalking up...

Best pre-long route/walking up a hill to the crag mix ever:
https://soundcloud.com/rave_on/armin-van-buuren-live-essential-mix-30052009

Is supect this will piss Fiend off even more, but cheesy female-vocal drum'n'bass also works. A significant number of my harder onsights/flashes have been fuelled by this:

Yossarian

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#78 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 11, 2019, 01:03:16 pm
Fabriclive 98 / Dimension is my favoured drive to the crag sykemix...

Will Hunt

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#79 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 11, 2019, 06:32:03 pm
Standard. In my luminous green shorts, kneepads and tops off, rubbing chalk into my moobs  (what's she doing at 0.50??) for speedy chalking up...

Best pre-long route/walking up a hill to the crag mix ever:
https://soundcloud.com/rave_on/armin-van-buuren-live-essential-mix-30052009

Is supect this will piss Fiend off even more, but cheesy female-vocal drum'n'bass also works. A significant number of my harder onsights/flashes have been fuelled by this:


In centuries to come, this post among others will be termed by digital archaeologists as "the worst excesses of UKBouldering.com".

Stu Littlefair

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#80 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 11, 2019, 09:43:53 pm

Is this the rest at the birds nest or the higher undercuts? If the latter, i have a hunch you’re resting too long.

Higher undercuts. Interesting; did you blast straight through after a cursory shake? Am I depleting myself in some way staying there longer even if it doesn't feel it?

Yep, listen to barrows. If you can spend two minutes there you should be able to piss to the top. Have at least one go with a cursory shake.

It’s all very personal, but I just chalked up there and pushed on.

JohnM

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#81 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 09:12:59 am
I rested there for quite a long time but I think the key would be to arrive there quite fresh otherwise you would get diminishing returns. I thought the rest was decent but you had to work for it by constantly hand swapping and shuffling the feet up and down. To be honest I overstay my welcome in most rests anyway as it takes me ages to overcome the anxiety of setting off though the next section!

You probably don't want to change your beta on the crimpy headwall but I managed to make the moves a lot more static by stepping the outside edge of my right shoe on the small triangular edge twisting to the left with my knee facing that direction and hip close to the wall. It was harder to pull up into this position compared to the alternatives I tried but once there and twisted in it made the next moves much more static and controlled.

abarro81

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#82 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 09:27:08 am
Yeah, to clarify I rested there a while (unlike Stu).. but then didn't fall off the top.. not so much surprised that people rinse the rest, just that they'd be fit enough to rinse the rest but not then to finish it up (or, say, only blow the top bit once)

spidermonkey09

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#83 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 09:54:08 am
Thanks all. If I get through the boulder this weekend I'll hit the afterburners after a quick shake and see what happens!

shark

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#84 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 11:20:47 am
3 decent redpoint attempts yesterday but didn’t quite get the horn. Tommy got up on the top traverse 4 times.

Fiend was on the Catwalk  :o What with Will being there last time I’m fully expecting Dolly, Tomtom and Lagerstarfish to make an appearance next time. It’s like the ghosts of Christmas past.

2nd redpoint attempt (best go but hand slipped off intermediate as initiating launch)


3rd redpoint attempt (tired)



Tommy on the Oak

Yossarian

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#85 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 11:51:16 am
In my book, climbing (part of the way up) 8bs with your kids = winning at life. Bravo!

Doylo

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#86 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 12:28:48 pm
Can’t believe your son doesn’t wear Whites. Are you sure he’s yours?

shark

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#87 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 03:06:47 pm
Can’t believe your son doesn’t wear Whites. Are you sure he’s yours?

He ran out of them

shark

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#88 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 03:14:02 pm
In my book, climbing (part of the way up) 8bs with your kids = winning at life. Bravo!

 ;D It’s been a long investment

James Ibbertson was at the crag with his son, Josh who’s climbed 8c!

http://www.borealoutdoor.com/fr/communaute/detail/2019/09/06/we-interviewed-jack-and-josh-ibbertson


Will Hunt

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#89 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 03:23:11 pm
FFS, they've both climbed 8c. I think I already knew that but, fuck me!, why do any of us even bother!

tomtom

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#90 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 03:35:24 pm
Well done Shark. Sounds like a grand day.

Did tommy have a bit more psyche this week?

Ps. No chance of seeing me there unless I’m taking a load of students to look at limestone pavements 😃

spidermonkey09

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#91 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 03:36:46 pm
FFS, they've both climbed 8c. I think I already knew that but, fuck me!, why do any of us even bother!

Watched Jack smash in Bat Route a few months ago. Incredible to watch, especially using the nails sequence as he couldn't reach half the holds...

cheque

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#92 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 04:56:59 pm
FFS, they've both climbed 8c

in Boreals.

fuck me!, why do any of us even bother!

Personally burning children off has never been a big motivator for me.  ;) I think having parents who are dedicated climbers is a hugely underrated factor in becoming a very good climber though. It's certainly one that loads of megawads have in common.

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#93 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 05:48:26 pm
The fact that Jack's done Exorcist is well impressive as well. Grit is not a helpful medium for the shorter climber, and I can think of a couple of moves which are a big stretch for most adults!

Will Hunt

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#94 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 06:10:53 pm
Hmmm  :-\   36C has done Exorcist and he's not much over 3ft.

And Ben has done it or been close and we all know how fucking short he is  ::) :boohoo:

dunnyg

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#95 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 06:29:43 pm
You should get on it Will, you can probably skip out about 10 moves, probably only 6C+ like that.

36chambers

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#96 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 07:06:06 pm
You should get on it Will, you can probably skip out about 10 moves, probably only 6C+ like that.

But let's be serious for a second, we all know Will will never climb harder than 7C.

Will Hunt

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#97 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 12, 2019, 07:41:13 pm
It's true!

Rob F

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#98 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 13, 2019, 09:53:48 am
Sod the Olympics.

Shark vs Tommy vs The Oak.

Haute tension extraordinaire!!!!!

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#99 Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
September 13, 2019, 11:37:06 am
The olympics is every four years. Big deal.

Shark climbing the Oak. That would be a once in a lifetime kind of event.

 

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