[tomtom]

M: Norfolk

Tu: Norfolk AM then long drive back to Manchester.

We: Weather rubbish - digging / making  large sandcastles three days in a row seemed to have aggravated my tennis elbow a little... anway, went to the Depot feeling a but lacklustre and I was shit. Climbed rubbish - scraped up most of the blacks, unable to repeat any harder problems from previous visits. Took all my effort and motivation to stick it out for an hour....

Th:

Fri: Given a morning pass - so headed to Helsby. Felt better on the rock than I did on the plastic on weds - creaked across Ron. B's on the Barrel Butress - repeated Roll out the Barrel again (smoothly this time - no highball jitters) - nearly got to my high point (its a traverse there - so I guess its an across point) on Rob B's. Then went to check out Mike Adams new problems on the Undertaker Butress. Bit of a bushwack to get there across the crag bottom... Problems were not pushovers - I was not climbing well. I'll be back - but maybe not until the bracke has started to die off...

Its the first time I've walked under the length of Helsby - its a really impressive - and substantial crag... lovely looking up. Less lovely looking down at the discarded disposable BBQ's that had presumably be launched from the top over the bank holiday weekend. Knobends.

Sa: Mrs was snoring in bed post night on the lash, so I took the toddler up early to check out the Wilton fest before any rain came in. Folks were still setting up - and the lad was not at all interested. Had to drag him out of the car - then carry him around. Grizzled and moaned the whole way. Not even mountain rescue landrovers with all the kit and flashing lights would entertain him. Went home. He promptly boasted to his mother about seeing the MRT...

Was then given an afternoon off unexpectedly - and had a message from Rman that a few folks were bouldering up in the Wiltons - so went up there and a bunch of us huddled under an overhang whilst it rained - then swung about on some rocks. I did a problem new to me "Knuckle Shuffle F7A+" which wasnt at all wank... and did some traversey things on the same block with every one else. Left after a couplel of ours as I had the summons from home (and it was second day on). Ended up spending a ccouple of hours at the local Pride event - where MrsTT and Toddler were having fun.

Two festivals in one day eh! Both quite different.... Wilton fest was really good - nice vibe - nice people. You should all go if you're in the area...

Sun: Did very little. Mused to myself that a week off climbing (weds > weds) makes me shitter rather than a recovery week or whatever it might else be called...

[Fiend]

Its the first time I've walked under the length of Helsby

I despair  You're right though, it is a pretty unpleasant contrast between the impressiveness of the crag, the expansiveness of the outgoing view, and the demoralising amount of litter.

Mused to myself that a week off climbing (weds > weds) makes me shitter rather than a recovery week or whatever it might else be called...

Absolutely the same for me. More than 2-3 days off and it's a regression period not a rest period.

[moose]

I'm more the opposite, for the last few months, the most "climbing" I've managed midweek is a fingerboard session.  So, five days off and going at it Sat / Sat is my usual routine.  Sub-optimal from a fun point of view but it doesn't seem to have done me much harm - on the occassions I have done more midweek, I have felt appreciably washed-out at the weekend.

Mused to myself that a week off climbing (weds > weds) makes me shitter rather than a recovery week or whatever it might else be called...

Absolutely the same for me. More than 2-3 days off and it's a regression period not a rest period.

[monkoffunk]

STG - Sport projects. Do more DWS
Lose weight back 74kg.
MTG - Portland Font 7A+/B from unfinished list, autumn (or summer evenings).
LTG - 7C

M - Planned rest day.

T - Planned to get to Portland but didn’t get out of work early enough to make it worthwhile with remaining light. Ended up in Rockburn in Bridport. Small old school wall with 40 degree board in an attic. Good potential with space for some smaller holds, but able to set some hard problems and probably best actual training session I’ve had in ages. Lots of potential for PE too.

W - Rest. Failed to resist chocolate cake at work, no wonder I’m so chubs right now.

T - Day off. Didn’t search too hard for partner and ended up going bouldering on Portland. Few goes at Ladies Night again. Much like last effort some time ago, was a bit too late in the morning for coolest conditions. Took ages to figure out first moves again, wrote it down so won’t forget next time. Still struggling to figure out beta for top.

Tried 7A nearby called Anasazi Lost, seems to be eliminate but wasn’t sure how much to eliminate. The strict description in the guide seems nails, couldn’t see how you’d do it. Did a less eliminate version that was pretty fun but don’t know about grade.

Then wondered over to Tank boulder which has a 7B lip traverse thing on it that looks surprisingly awesome for Portland so wanted to at least feel the holds. Did all the easy problems at right hand end and then the 7A, Virgin Albino. Made hard work of that and climbed it atrociously. Hopes of getting up anything 7B-7C seem far away currently.

F - Felt wrecked. Was somewhat surprised; clearly in worse shape than I thought, or tried harder than I thought day before! Night shift.

S - Still wrecked. Pain in left bicep. Screwed sleep bad for recovery but nothing can do about it. Night shift.

S - Post nights went to family Christening. Then slept. Woke up at 1700 and did some pull ups to try work out the pain in the bicep. Final night shift tonight.

Basically three days off, like above that begins to be too long for me and I feel weak and unrecruited. Will see how tomorrow feels.

[monkoffunk]

Also spent down time on nights watching Doylo’s YouTube channel. Obviously high quality stuff, but what struck me most is the effort being put into every go/move. I’m really not trying hard enough!

[shark]

10.13-11.1 Average 154.4lbs down 0.3lbs

M.Afternoon. Drive back from Devon. Systems board. Hot again. Thought I would be fresh but warming up last were super sore. Damn. Did two reps of Oak PE/AnCap circuit. Then one set of 20/10s. Not much but on back of previous 4 days it left me destroyed. Two days rest needed.

T.

W.

T. Got to Malham 3pm with Tom 16.5deg occasional sun breezy. Promising. Cons x 3. Felt a bit slippy and didn’t feel I was climbing precisely.
Go1 Dogged up Oak to top traverse and tried to do it but moves felt hard and foot skidded off at end. Went down to throw move clipped in pulled rope and retired and tried throw with Steve H’s lower right foot 3x. Good way to do it but I lacked a vital inch or two to make it work. Then did it my way but it felt hard. Confidence knocked - felt like I was going backwards.
Go 2 Tried it from second bolt and straightaway got horn though had to readjust. This is a key link of 7 moves at about 7B. Back to second bolt pull rope and retied and then did link again but again had to readjust on the horn. Never done this section back-to-back. Ben Moon suggested doing reps like this a few years ago but it wasn’t on the cards for me at the time as one successful go would have left me wasted.
Go3 Plan was to go from ground but felt I should try link again as I wasn’t getting horn in right place. First attempt got it perfectly! Short rest and did it again but disappointingly had to readjust. Came down.
Go 4 Tried throw to top. Did the throw but was busted at the horn so rested. Too tired to do links but reworked traverse for micro beta. TRed Cons 5x in succession in fading light.
In other news Tommy did ground to horn. 3rd session for him - took me a few years to get that link...

F. 

S.

S. Malham by 2pm. Felt autumnal in Sheffield and excited by prospect of mint connies and whilst ambient temp was about 15degrees turned out not as good as hoped for on catwalk. Intermittently rainy and sunny and really still. Cons x 3. Go1 dogged up to top traverse and did to top.
Go2 pulled up to throw move, did it. Short rest on ground then from ground to part way thru bottom section but not felt like I was firing properly so came down
Go3 Ground to getting fingers wrong in cramped sidepull which comprisedset up throw but still managed to touch horn
Go4 Ground to getting fingers tangled again. Everything was feeling hard. Tommy similarly struggling on start moves. Felt sleepy but went for a walk.
Go5 Psyched up but ground to a halt a few moves in. Short rest on ground. Pulled up to third bolt and attempted throw to top. Two attempts to go throw and got as far as middle of top traverse coming in to sidepull.
Tommy managed traverse to top and stripped it. Finished with 8 laps on Consenting.

Disappointing session on the Oak for both us and contemplated having a mini break from it to train but decided to keep at it with a different emphasis. Going back Tuesday and will focus on longer PE links of the top half

[teestub]

Also spent down time on nights watching Doylo’s YouTube channel.

That sort of behaviour can make you blind!!

[abarro81]

Also spent down time on nights watching Doylo’s YouTube channel.

That sort of behaviour can make you wish you were blind!!

[spidermonkey09]

T - rest.

W - rest.

T - Malham after work. I didn't think it was mint although everyone else there seemed to. Bit stressed out as the nights drawing in were starting to limit time. Had a few redpoints but failed to get through boulder frustratingly. Struggled with a single move between knee bar and bird hole which I never normally do; tried it a few times and decided to write it off as a one off. Finished with 8a link from bird hole to top, fuelled by being pissed off at boulder failure. Good to climb through headwall crux when pumped. That might be it for evening sessions as had to get draws out in darkness!

F - rest.

S - nice breezy day. Dogged up to bird hole, it all felt fine. Did 8a link to top with ease to get the blood flowing. Lowered off feeling optimistic and had a good rest. As I got knee pad on the sun came out and commenced baking the crag. Should have waited but had a go anyway and spannered move to third undercut on the boulder. Wound up by the sun appearing but had a long rest before trying again. Dropped it cutting loose on the jug as I didn't have the hold right; pissed off. Last go up fell adjusting on crimp at end of boulder before doing anger fuelled link in bad conditions through boulder to redpoint crux on headwall, probably could have got through had I rested at undercuts longer. A really frustrating session as the boulder felt like a roadblock again having felt piss a few weeks back. Felt like an acknowledgement that it might not happen this year.

S - colder than Saturday and nice enough conditions when sun was in, but less breezy which was unfortunate. Fought really hard on boulder first go but caught jug wrong again. Took and held massive cut loose and opted to skip the clip going for the kneebar rest. Blew it and took big flyer. Calmed down after 10 minutes and had another go after a good long rest. Rinsed the boulder (finally) but was aware I was really tired even in the knee bar. Left top undercut rest on headwall very tired and bust a gut on the crimps, getting a few moves further than I thought before coming off. Was absolutely wasted after this; could barely pull back on.

A frustrating week; lots of RP attempts but only got through the bulge once, last go of the weekend. A shame I couldn't do that first go on Saturday as the additional power might have seen me through! The attempt to rest more and train less has not worked for me as I seem to have lost something unidentifiable on the boulder. Regardless, evening sessions are done for me now as there isn't enough light to make it worthwhile so will go back to training this week before hopefully an afternoon at Malham over the weekend. Increasingly glad of the cut off of early October to go to Spain as I feel ready to do the route and am frustrated that it remains unticked. Will give it the beans every time I go between now and then but more willing to accept that it might not happen this year now. On the plus side, I am very solid on the headwall now when not totally wasted and doing yet another lap on the 8b+ section last go of the weekend has to bode well. Could happen any go, but equally could not happen at all and being at peace with both those outcomes is half the battle I think.

[Will Hunt]

T - Hot and sweaty, but I'd agreed to "lead" the LMC evening meet to the Glen. They'd all just been to Pembroke over the bank holiday so two people turned up. We greased up a few things without much enthusiasm.

Sa - Family trip out to the shops in the morning. Showers. Got back and things had dried up and the sun was out. Headed up to the Glen and decided upon giving The Alternative Circuit a go, 50 problems up to 6B spread along the full length of the edge. I didn't have a huge amount of daylight and was aware that the "highballs" (solos really) at the far end would probably stop play. Training goons would probably call this an Aerocap session, but that would be to entirely miss the point. I decided not to go too fast and light because some of the problems on the way definitely needed a pad and I wasn't sure how I'd stand up to the volume of climbing. Took a pad and a half. Progressed fairly smoothly along the highball walls at the north end of the crag, doing most things without pads. Was feeling quite tired at about a third of the way through but settled into a nice rhythm. Took a few goes to figure out Funnymove, the arete of which I was trying to do on the left above a horrible block - turns out you climb the arete on the right.
The climbs are all easy but the constant nature of the climbing and the often highball nature keeps you on your toes. Particular highlights were some of the brilliant problems that I haven't done before.
Don't Fall Off - looks crap but has an absolutely fantastic move swinging along jugs above a funny landing.
Raspberry, Wood's Arete, and Phantom Rib come back to back and are all brilliant but I'd always overlooked them due to their lowly grades.
Don't Bother - on the contrary, a highball delight of an offwidth hidden at the back of a wide, flaring chimney. Great bridging and chicken winging.

Ground to a halt halfway up Kia-Ora Wall (problem 39/50) not wanting to commit to what looked like a tricky top section. It's an old E1 that gets Font 5+ now, but it's about 8m tall and the top looks very slopey. If I'd pushed on through that there were two other solos that I've not done before (Vee Pod and Austin's Hangover) which look great and then it ought to be fairly plain sailing up the last few highballs. I probably ought to recce these and then have another go.

Musical accompaniment was provided throughout by the Bingley Weekender festival.

Walking back along the edge to the car, the sky had that cool autumnul clarity that comes after a bout of showers. The clouds were tinged pink from the setting sun and everything felt crisp and fresh. The Glen, so often overlooked and disrespected, had given another treasure.

[gollum]

M - Rest

T - Three weekly leg session. Start with squats for doubles and get up to a comfortable 120k. Felt less sketchy than previous sessions. Deadlifts with pause for 5 reps, working up to 130. Move on to some split stance deadlifts at 80k x4 x4 which works both my legs and back really well. Finish off with some leg raises to the bands which is good for control. A good session.

W - Rest

T - Rest

F - Rest

S - Big treadmill run. 22 miles while watching Avengers Infinity Wars.

S - Nip to the Depot to have a play with the new Purples. Went well with some, flashed a few, a few in a couple of goes, worked a few.

A different week. Wrestling a bit with the dog and lacking motivation but felt like it came back a bit at the weekend. See how the next couple of weeks go as I transition from a job I have done for thirty odd years to something else.

[cheque]

You can do it Spidermonkey!

... it from second bolt and straightaway got horn though had to readjust. This is a key link of 7 moves at about 7B. Back to second bolt pull rope and retied and then did link again but again had to readjust on the horn. Never done this section back-to-back. Ben Moon suggested doing reps like this a few years ago but it wasn’t on the cards for me at the time as one successful go would have left me wasted.

This sounds promising.

Rehab Diaries Week Fifty-four

STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Trad list (8 7/27 remain), onsighting HVS/ low 6s by end of September.

T- Rest.


W- as last Tuesday, two pullups on the doorframe of the staff kitchen every time I made a cup of tea at work, this week I didn’t put my feet on the floor between them and kept my body vertically straight on each- this is hard for me now, which fits with the feeling I have when I climb which is of having a pretty weak core. Did 14 during the course of the day.

T- Did a set of five pull-ups at lunchtime. Back at Yarncliffe cleaning in the evening- the bottom of the back wall was only damp to about chest-height so it seems that my suspicions about it being condensed from the hot bank holiday weather at the weekend were correct. Did a fair bit of muck-removal on the lower wall (my aim is to stop it retaining the inevitable dampness and it seems to be working) then had a look at the Créme de la Créme arête- from a distance this looks like a “quick win” as it’s not too dirty and, having never seen a picture of what looks to be a very photogenic route, I want to coax a climber into it in the colder months and photograph them.

Closer inspection revealed that this arête actually suffers from seepage and is plagued by ants- there’s one anthill at the bottom and another at the top and they climb the arête like an insect version of El Cap in their hundreds constantly between the two. Amazing to see but I’m not going anywhere near that again until they’ve hibernated- I return from Yarncliffe each time with either mosquito or ant bites round my ankles as it is!

Decided to ab the wall right of Zapple as there’s apparently another decent HVS under the moss and an E3 that links the two, which has a direct start that’s never been freed! This will take more than one cleaning session but I got most of the moss off and found the holds on the E3.

F- Rest.

S- This was my only climbing window of the weekend but I also wanted to protest in the morning and watch Man United’s potential humiliation on TV early afternoon. The weather fitted this perfectly with rain early on followed by wind and sunshine later. I’d been saving Count’s Crack at Stanage Plantation for exactly this sort of occurrence so went out with my girlfriend in tow to tick it. Bought her some gloves from Outside on the way.

We’d been to tick this off in early June but there was a strong westerly blowing straight at the crag (as I think I noted at the time, CC is in a corner that funnels all available wind right into it) and it was too cold for either of us and I’d found the starting section, which involves a fairly wide bridging move to get into the crack itself, very hard. Today it was just as windy but tolerable (for me at least) as it was earlier in the day and the warmer end of summer underneath it.

Having lowered off it back in June I decided not to do a separate warm-up route  and, although the bridging and climbing in general felt much easier  I got flash pumped trying to work out the crux so needed two goes. This is a class route, better than I expected- every single move is great.

S- Rest. Race support so up at the crack of dawn to drive to the east coast and eat crisps in the car while Rache ran. There was a guy there who’s apparently in the Guinness book for number of marathons run in fancy dress- he’s done most of them in the same shit Mr Potato Head costume.

Very excited for the autumn.  I’ve now ticked the two routes from my list that have daunting bridging moves on them (the other was Fairy Nuff- just look at the only two pictures of it on the other channel and imagine contemplating it after drastic pelvic surgery  ) which is a massive confidence boost as it’s a great sign that my stretching is working.

[SA Chris]

M - nowt recovery
T - nowt recovery
W - first wall session in about a month. Felt OK at first, but it didn't last. Plus feet a bit sore from Sundays's run.
T - easy dreadmill session at lunch.
F - nowt, beers in evening.
S - actually felt OK, given I'm a bit of a lightweight theses days. Lots of walking in town.
S - Chapelton charity bike ride with Kyle. Approached with intrepidation, first time he's gone anything like this distance, but he coped fine, even though I got a bit concerned on the one busy stretch. Over 24 km and 250 m of ascent on the day including cycling from home to start and back. Need to get him some cycling shorts before another long one, he was moaning about a sore bum for most of the last section. Nice day for it.

Woodie building continues.

[Yossarian]

M - Back to Sabots. Warm up. Daughter did red (7?) in one less go than me, getting praise from otherwise curmudgeonly locals. Tried L’Angle TGV - made some progress but was struggling a bit in the heat (34c ish). Headed for Graviton - Czech couple were on it, so tried Elecubration / Le Quark next door. Holds didn’t feel too bad, so got quite syked. The LH version seemed too hard, so tried with the bigger hueco thing for RH. Fairly rapidly found myself at the top. First 7SOMETHING in years. Danced around a bit. Then tried Graviton with the others. Had trouble with the right heel and doing enough with it to move up with the RH. Decided to return the next day.

T - Similar to previous day. Did Crosse en l’Air. We both then had mini siege on Jet Set. I made some decent progress, but when I finally touched the LH hold high up (from which you go to the top) it seemed too shit for my current state of finger strength. Daughter did pretty well too. She’s too little to fully make the move up to the same hold, but her efforts to get into a position to do so were pretty impressive. Various fully-grown men were evidently put out by this and tried to do the same, unsuccessfully. Back to Graviton. First 2-3 goes were good, with the heel feeling solid and i managed to get up to the top crimps - tried turning the LH into a press position but couldn’t quite do it.  But it got hotter and hotter and it was all a bit strength sapping. A few days later I got alternative beta suggestion - using a RH heel inside the flake below the lip. Looked like a better plan, especially considering a fall with the heel up would be quite wild with only an 8-year-old spotter. Also had a go at L’Angle a Jean-Luc, which I got about 2/3rds up. Then drove home.

W - Did a load of shoulder rehab exercises, IYTs, etc

T - Mile End. Great session mainly in the steep cave thing. Did the V5-6 black that I couldn’t quite manage previous session, doing a few laps on it by the end. Finished with some foot-on campus but was feeling pretty wrecked by then.

F - More shoulder stuff, plus ring dips (shocking), KB swings and press-ups.

S - Harrisons. Daughter doing routes with her squad, so had decent session with another of the dads. Did Baskerville, Desperate Dan, etc and then some laps on Phillipa.

S - Fairly worn out. 4.5 mile family walk. Ended up carrying 30kg child over ploughed fields.

Font was great, though arriving exhausted and poorly prepared obvs hampered success. Next time I intend to be substantially lighter and hopefully stronger.

Majority of syke is currently focused on Ansteys, with return trip in a couple of weeks. Have also been looking for Cheddar and Dorset 7s that might succumb to Empire Wall type fitness.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - weights, tired, torrid again.
Tue - fingers, garage session. Liquid chalk: 9.00 Euros, with Mastercard; sandpaper: 1.00 Euro, with Mastercard; fan: 14.00 Euros, with Mastercard. Boshing out one arm hangs on a 14 mm edge in 32°: priceless. Bar work, weights, abs. Very proud.
Wed - trap bar deadlift (30%) 20x5. Clean and press with top static pause. Abs.
Thu - pull ups and clean and press EMOM sets x10. Various weighted carries. Torrid.
Fri - fingers, BM session, very good. Weights, loaded carries.
Sat - weights, pull ups. Tired. Knee sore.
Sun - weighta, pull ups, weighted carries.

[duncan]

shark, that sounds like long-term progress.

Daughter did pretty well too. She’s too little to fully make the move up to the same hold, but her efforts to get into a position to do so were pretty impressive. Various fully-grown men were evidently put out by this and tried to do the same, unsuccessfully.

This is brilliant. How old before she overtakes you? habrich managed to hold off habrich jr til the latter was 20, mainly due to his being distracted by soccer until quite recently; Tommy sounds like he’s just matched shark (at what age?).

cheque, the Yarncliffe arete was big in the early 80s, like one of the Millstone routes of the time, interesting how it appears to have fallen out of favour somewhat. Cleaner air and warmer temperatures seems to have made these old quarries danker, greener and buggier than when they were first developed.



STG: enjoy climbing, don’t get injured, try another E4.
MTG/LTG: tbc

M - See last week: Pembroke day 3 and drive home.
T  - Very tired. Shoulder stuff
W - Still tired. Shoulder stuff
T - Westway bouldering to ‘V3/4’. Tweaked left shoulder.
F - Hip stretches.
S - Walking round central London. Lower numbers, the delightful SWP out in force, and generally a much more depressing experience compared to the last time I did this kind of thing.  Shoulder stuff
S - Fingerboard ‘pick-ups’: 35kg x 6 sets on the 17mm edge.

Easier week part by design and part by accident. Was planning to just use the Westway visit to do a finger strength reassessment but, typically, their fingerboard pulley has gone missing and not been replaced. I did some bouldering instead and predictably tweaked my shoulder. Classic combination of factors: too many recent withdrawals and too few deposits leading to cash-flow problems at the Bank of Shoulder Strength, too many wads in da house - I’m happier training on my own, an impromptu session without warming-up properly, and generally feeling knackered.

On a positive note, back in March I was just able to lift 30kg for 10 seconds with the ‘small’ hold (~17mm) on my mini fingerboard, this week I managed to lift 35kg for 10s six times. This is a very basic test not greatly affected by shoulder position or strength. As I’d not been training or testing pick-ups for six months this seems to represents a decent improvement in non-specific strength. Will do a proper reassessment once my shoulder has settled again.   

Last weekend marked the 30th anniversary of moving to London (the first thing I did was to go the Notting Hill Carnival) and today marks the 30th anniversary of starting my first proper job. I planned to stay in London for two years then travel the world with my then portable profession. If my younger self had been told he’d work full-time in SE England for 30 years he’d have been incredulous. I’ve just applied to go part-time, for the third time. Wish me luck. 

Plan: ease back in with some gentle rehab/aerocap. Crush in Pembroke at the weekend...or should that be make sure I enjoy myself?

[cheque]

cheque, the Yarncliffe arete was big in the early 80s, like one of the Millstone routes of the time, interesting how it appears to have fallen out of favour somewhat. Cleaner air and warmer temperatures seems to have made these old quarries danker, greener and buggier than when they were first developed.

Yeah, it’s a great line- seems pretty mean given that it’s meant to be 7A to the first gear but it does date from when men were men! It looks absolutely dope from the top of the Zapple Slab (assuming you can see the climber from there- it climbs mainly on the left I think) and I’m sure there’s a picture of Big Ron on it somewhere but I’ve never seen it.

There’s a picture of Chris Craggs on Zapple in the 80s guidebook and the wall is spotless and unrecognisable from today, like a lot of the pictures of quarries from that era. It’s nice that they look less like quarries now but not so good when good routes get to the stage when people don’t climb them. There’s a thread on the other channel from last July saying how clean Yarncliffe was and there was obviously a flurry of activity from that but looking at the pictures on there from then and getting up close and personal with it now it’s obvious that it wasn’t actually clean at all, just dry enough for the gunk not to make a difference and despite Neil Foster’s suggestion on the thread, no one took the impetus to scrub it off when it would have been easy. My aim is to get at least the routes that get two or more stars in the book into a condition where they’ll stay climbable outside of droughts!

[Steve R]

M - rest.
T- pm session on a friend's board.  pleased (and quite relieved) to be able to repeat some of our old yardsticks pretty quickly.  Good session, bit of shock how bad/small a lot of the hand holds felt compared to MV hull board and my own cellar board which I'm currently more used to.  Difference due to feet follow hands problems typically on friend's vs poor feet only on latter 2 boards. Think it's worth doing a bit of both types?
W - rest
T-  should've done something but felt generally knackered
F- 
S- travelled to Roc d'Anglars (St. Antonin area) for escape the heat weekend sport.  First visit here.  Spectacularly hot and humid but great first day, just onsighting low 7s.  arms blasted after ~5 routes.  Really liked the crag - onsighting seemed quite tough as the rock's very white so sometimes hard to spot holds and often dealing with very high levels of polish but brilliant routes nonetheless. 
S- day 2 at Anglars, more of the same.  arms had recovered ok over night luckily, felt good to onsight a couple of classics that felt really tough with current level of fitness.   

should manage more training this week as work and sleep routine becoming more settled. hopefully won't feel as knackered towards end of week.

Weight down to 76kg. This year's the first time in about a decade that I've gone the wrong side of 12stone. So good to dip back onto the right side but still a long way to go (highest fat % climber at Roc d'anglars over the weekend I think and there were a lot to choose from!)

[nai]

M - 2x10 mins LI Aero before heading off on a short break with my parents and kids
TW nowt
Th - board bouldering, mostly trying to work new harder section of circuits and a coupel of new problems, so mostly doing 2-4 hard moves at a time. Good, felt strong, probably did a coupls of blocks too many
Core
F - AM intended to do a bouldering session repeating problems first thing then some sort of endurance in the evening but just couldn't get going, find this very odd, previous day I was warm in no time despite pretty much three days of no activity.

resorted to a PE session in the morning, 6x 1:30ish 30 move burns but ony completed one set so not as good as last time.
TRX - IYTs
Core
Eve - 10 x 1mins HI Aero laps

SS another short break so just a 30km mtb ride on Sunday, of no climbing value but good fun

School back this week. Tips starting to tingle at the thought of crimping razors. Just another inset day to endure

[Yossarian]

shark, that sounds like long-term progress.

Daughter did pretty well too. She’s too little to fully make the move up to the same hold, but her efforts to get into a position to do so were pretty impressive. Various fully-grown men were evidently put out by this and tried to do the same, unsuccessfully.

This is brilliant. How old before she overtakes you? habrich managed to hold off habrich jr til the latter was 20, mainly due to his being distracted by soccer until quite recently; Tommy sounds like he’s just matched shark (at what age?).

I would like to think that it’s currently a case of the Red Queen effect, though if her enthusiasm builds then I’m going to have problems. I think Font is very child-friendly too, plus she sometimes climbs with an 11/12yo who’s done 7C there. I think big numbers are seen as something to be embraced rather than shied away from.

Currently less enthusiasm for routes, so I’m safe on that front, but the long-term goal is to turn her and her brother into attentive belayers for my late 40s and 50s.

[Coops_13]

T: Tufas Bouldering. Finger rehab on BM1K bottom edges, 10 sec hangs. BW X3, +15lb X3, +20lb X3. Continuous improvement is good, without my pulley ring too! Kilter board for majority of session. 12 boulders up to V6 with 6 at V5, really good fun and felt like good intensity. Finished with some wrist curls. Was approached by a worker to be told there was a no tops-off rule but he was cool with it. That pissed me off a bit as I like the gym, it's close to the client and has good facilities

S: Allamuchy State Park. In New Jersey for a wedding, found some local granite choss for a few hours of fun. Humid and buggy. Managed three V5s (including one downgrade). Video below: