[bigironhorse]

Thought it would be good to get a thread going for the olympics next year. Watching the world champs last week has got me pretty excited about this.

So far, these are the climbers who have finished in a position which makes them eligible for selection:

1	GARNBRET	Janja	SLO
2	NOGUCHI	Akiyo	JPN
3	COXSEY	Shauna	GBR
4	MIROSLAW	Aleksandra	POL
5	NONAKA	Miho	JPN
6	MORI	Ai	JPN
7	ITO	Futaba	JPN
8	KLINGLER	Petra	SUI
9	RABOUTOU	Brooke	USA

1	NARASAKI	Tomoa	JPN
2	SCHUBERT	Jakob	AUT
3	KHAIBULLIN	Rishat	KAZ
4	HARADA	Kai	JPN
5	NARASAKI	Meichi	JPN
6	FUJII	Kokoro	JPN
7	MAWEM	Mickael	FRA
8	MEGOS	Alexander	GER
9	FOSSALI	Ludovico	ITA

Anyone know if anyone has been confirmed yet?

Also, are all the japanese climbers that finished in the top 7 eligible or just the top 2?

Next qualifying event is the olympic qualifying event at the end of November.

[monkoffunk]

There was a lot of chat about the Japanese selectors in the commentary for the combined. I think they can choose from their eligible athletes, plus Japan would have had one (male and female) anyway for being host nation even if none had qualified.

[Coops_13]

Is it two of each gender allowed per country or just two total?

[GraemeA]

Is it two of each gender allowed per country or just two total?

2 per gender per country.

[GraemeA]

The process is that the IFSC sends letters to various NOC's inviting athletes, 7 men and 7 women, 2 of which are (for each gender) from Japan. This has to happen very quickly, in fact it probably has already happened.
The NOC has 2 weeks to accept.
Then any rejigging happens eg if there is a Japanese climber already confirmed then the guaranteed Japanese place gets re-allocated and another athlete gets the invite.

[bigironhorse]

The process is that the IFSC sends letters to various NOC's inviting athletes, 7 men and 7 women, 2 of which are (for each gender) from Japan. This has to happen very quickly, in fact it probably has already happened.
The NOC has 2 weeks to accept.
Then any rejigging happens eg if there is a Japanese climber already confirmed then the guaranteed Japanese place gets re-allocated and another athlete gets the invite.

Yes I was going to mention that. Seems likely that Jessie Pilz and Sean McColl will get a place too, because if the host nation place isn't used it will be the offered to the next ranked climber from Hachioji (according to Charlie Boscoe's article on the other channel).

[bigironhorse]

The process is that the IFSC sends letters to various NOC's inviting athletes, 7 men and 7 women, 2 of which are (for each gender) from Japan. This has to happen very quickly, in fact it probably has already happened.
The NOC has 2 weeks to accept.
Then any rejigging happens eg if there is a Japanese climber already confirmed then the guaranteed Japanese place gets re-allocated and another athlete gets the invite.

Just the top two then? Or can they pick from all of the eligible climbers? Cheers

[Sidehaas]

Both Jessie and Sean have confirmed on their own instagram that they are going,  from which I assumed it was definite...could be wrong though.

[Sidehaas]

One question I had for Graeme or another knowledgeable person...
I thought that if the Japanese turned one of their places this time around,  they would have to win a second place again at a future comp that was part of the qualifying 'pathway', and the climber they send would have to be the person that achieved that. However,  there was some speculation on the hachioji commentary that they were going to send the person who won the Japanese national championships. Are they allowed to do this (eg by claiming it is their host place)  or do they have to send someone at the point they qualify from Toulouse or from the Asian continental qualifying competition in 2020?
Perhaps a minor point but I was interested and couldn't work it out.
Thanks

[bigironhorse]

Updated lists

1	GARNBRET	Janja	SLO
2	NOGUCHI	Akiyo	JPN
3	COXSEY	Shauna	GBR
4	MIROSLAW	Aleksandra	POL
5	NONAKA	Miho	JPN
6	MORI	Ai	JPN
7	ITO	Futaba	JPN
8	KLINGLER	Petra	SUI
9	RABOUTOU	Brooke	USA
10	PILZ	Jessica	AUT

1	NARASAKI	Tomoa	JPN
2	SCHUBERT	Jakob	AUT
3	KHAIBULLIN	Rishat	KAZ
4	HARADA	Kai	JPN
5	NARASAKI	Meichi	JPN
6	FUJII	Kokoro	JPN
7	MAWEM	Mickael	FRA
8	MEGOS	Alexander	GER
9	FOSSALI	Ludovico	ITA
10	MCCOLL	Sean	CAN

[bigironhorse]

One question I had for Graeme or another knowledgeable person...
I thought that if the Japanese turned one of their places this time around,  they would have to win a second place again at a future comp that was part of the qualifying 'pathway', and the climber they send would have to be the person that achieved that. However,  there was some speculation on the hachioji commentary that they were going to send the person who won the Japanese national championships. Are they allowed to do this (eg by claiming it is their host place)  or do they have to send someone at the point they qualify from Toulouse or from the Asian continental qualifying competition in 2020?
Perhaps a minor point but I was interested and couldn't work it out.
Thanks

Not sure about this. I think the only way that they could guarantee sending the nationals winner would be by using the host national reserved allocation, but I think this is void now that they have had 2+ climbers qualify in the combined world champs.

[bigironhorse]

Men's qualifying in Toulouse starting soon.

[bigironhorse]

Bouldering pretty enjoyable despite the the top half of the field all getting 3 tops and a bonus. Looks like Bosi is in with a shout of qualifying for the final?

[GraemeA]

Interesting that there is still the assumption that if you win 1 discipline then you will be in the final. That was probably true with 20 starters but with 22 maybe it has changed. In Hachioji 432 (men) or 420 (women) got you through but Bassa is now on 21 and is likely to get another 21 or 22 in the Lead - I can't see him beating anyone other than Alfian. So Bassa is maybe looking at a score of 441 which might put him just out of the final.

[Duma]

Yeah but in Hachioji there was only 20 so the equivalent result would be 1x19(second to last) x 20 (last) = 380

[abarro81]

I think Graham's point is that there being 22 may not affect the non-specialists who do well, as they'll not be down in those places in anything anyway... so the benchmark to get into the final won't be miles different... whereas it will affect the speed specialists, thus reducing their chances

[abarro81]

can someone remind me how many get olympic places from this one?

[Will Hunt]

Is this the one where Ondra has to do well (win?) to be a cert (i.e. not a wildcard selection) for the Olympics.
Can we have an update on how he's doing?

[abarro81]

If he does ok (as he should) in the lead it looks like he'll be in. 2nd in boulder, 14th in speed.

Today is qualies, but qualies basically determines who gets the olympic spot - I looked up the answer to my Q and it's 6 who go through to the olympics (there's 8 in finals in Toulouse). If you assume that a couple of Japanese get into finals (or 2 of a country with someone already qualified) then basically it means finals probably gets you in..

[GraemeA]

can someone remind me how many get olympic places from this one?

6

[GraemeA]

That was spicy with Kruder

[abarro81]

Ha! I like how the commentator says "he needs to find something pretty massive" immediately before he rips the hold off!

[Duma]

Fuck, that was crazy!

[GraemeA]

A volume fell off at a Chamonix World Cup but that only had 1 screw (no it wasn't Jacky setting) but I have never seen anything like that, 4 screws ripping out!

[teestub]

Jernej just too strong!