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Olympics 2020 (Read 35651 times)

wasbeen

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#50 Re: Olympics 2020
December 02, 2019, 12:35:46 pm
Ironically in the woman's final, they ended up setting two slab boulders that suited lead climbers and a lead route that favoured boulderers.
« Last Edit: December 02, 2019, 12:43:16 pm by wasbeen »

bigironhorse

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#51 Re: Olympics 2020
December 02, 2019, 04:34:10 pm
I guess he is suggesting that if the two Japanese climbers could be selected then they would count towards the six that can be nominated, so the 7th or 8th placed climbers could be at risk of having invites revoked. I believe there are ongoing negotiations between the ifsc and Japanese team regarding this.

highrepute

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#52 Re: Olympics 2020
December 02, 2019, 04:36:05 pm
I think he was referring to the Japanese suing the IFSC. As Bigironhorse says.

There's an article on ukc about it I'd summarise but I don't understand it well enough.

bigironhorse

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#53 Re: Olympics 2020
December 02, 2019, 04:38:31 pm
I don't understand it well enough.

Ditto.

I think the long and short of it is that the IFSC intended to invite climbers immediately after they achieved a qualifying result, and that the climbers would have to accept shortly after being invited. On the other hand the Japanese team thought they could get as many climbers as possible in qualifying positions and then select who to send at a later date.

Disclaimer: could be bollocks.

finbarrr

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#54 Re: Olympics 2020
December 02, 2019, 06:29:58 pm
i really hope that when/if Adam Ondra makes it to the final at the olympics, he'll use the  speed event as a warm up route, climbing it slowly and deliberately , saving all his energy for the other events.

bigironhorse

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#55 Re: Olympics 2020
December 05, 2019, 07:57:25 am
Updated lists of qualified climbers:

1GARNBRETJanjaSLO
2NOGUCHIAkiyoJPN
3COXSEYShaunaGBR
4MIROSLAWAleksandraPOL
5NONAKAMihoJPN
6KLINGLERPetraSUI
7RABOUTOUBrookeUSA
8PILZJessicaAUT
9CHANOURDIEJuliaFRA
10KRAMPLMiaSLO
11KAPLINAIuliiaRUS
12CONDIEKyraUSA
13ROGORALauraITA
14SONGYiLingCHN


1NARASAKITomoaJPN
2SCHUBERTJakobAUT
3KHAIBULLINRishatKAZ
4HARADAKaiJPN
5MAWEMMickaelFRA
6MEGOSAlexanderGER
7FOSSALILudovicoITA
8MCCOLLSeanCAN
9ONDRAAdamCZE
10PANYuFeiCHN
11GINÉS LÓPEZAlbertoESP
12HOJERJanGER
13MAWEMBassaFRA
14COLEMANNathanielUSA

SA Chris

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#56 Re: Olympics 2020
December 05, 2019, 09:14:33 am
Looking at results, from Toulouse, did William Bosi only just miss the cut?

What chances has he got left now?

Duma

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#57 Re: Olympics 2020
December 05, 2019, 11:05:27 am
Speculation time -
I guess Alanna Yip must be a shoe-in for the female pan American spot. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock? Any other continental champs that could be reasonably predicted? I guess the African and oceanian (sp?) comps can't have a massive depth of field? Who are the contenders for Asian champs discounting the Japanese? Jongwon Chon must be a good shout? Europeans must still be pretty open I guess.

Also, can the tripartite  commission place break the 2 per country rule?

abarro81

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#58 Re: Olympics 2020
December 05, 2019, 12:56:33 pm
Looking at results, from Toulouse, did William Bosi only just miss the cut?

What chances has he got left now?

European champs is last chance I believe...

Also, can the tripartite  commission place break the 2 per country rule?

No, I think because no-one from the random small countries qualified to use it that it gets assigned to the next down the list in the World Champs, taking the quota into account... may be wrong on that though.

gme

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#59 Re: Olympics 2020
December 05, 2019, 01:20:30 pm

. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock?

What has happened to the hyped wonder kid Ashima? She really has seemed to struggle with the step up to adulthood unlike Janja who is a similar age and has just got better and better since she moved to the seniors. Ashima looked like the real deal but now seems behind a fair few of the others. Is it a classic case of american over hype or just a wobble.

I have not seen newyorker or national geo running Janja articles.

SA Chris

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#60 Re: Olympics 2020
December 05, 2019, 01:22:42 pm
Looking at results, from Toulouse, did William Bosi only just miss the cut?

What chances has he got left now?

European champs is last chance I believe...

Ooof, tough field.


Duma

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#61 Re: Olympics 2020
December 05, 2019, 01:34:46 pm
True, but no French or Germans eases it a little

abarro81

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#62 Re: Olympics 2020
December 05, 2019, 03:16:06 pm
Plus some of the best from other countries have qualified already - Ondra, Schubert, Gines Lopez... It's not gonna be a cruise, but certainly not out of the question either.

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#63 Re: Olympics 2020
December 05, 2019, 05:56:06 pm

. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock?

What has happened to the hyped wonder kid Ashima? She really has seemed to struggle with the step up to adulthood unlike Janja who is a similar age and has just got better and better since she moved to the seniors. Ashima looked like the real deal but now seems behind a fair few of the others. Is it a classic case of american over hype or just a wobble.

I have not seen newyorker or national geo running Janja articles.

too much Coke

Duma

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#64 Re: Olympics 2020
December 05, 2019, 06:39:59 pm

. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock?

What has happened to the hyped wonder kid Ashima? She really has seemed to struggle with the step up to adulthood unlike Janja who is a similar age and has just got better and better since she moved to the seniors. Ashima looked like the real deal but now seems behind a fair few of the others. Is it a classic case of american over hype or just a wobble.

I have not seen newyorker or national geo running Janja articles.

Tbf Ashima was pretty astonishing in 2014-2016, still better record than Janja outdoors I think?  She's also 2 years younger I believe.

Muenchener

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#65 Re: Olympics 2020
December 05, 2019, 08:32:14 pm
I have not seen newyorker or national geo running Janja articles.

I bet Slovenskje Merkur (or whatever it's actually called) does though. Price of coming from a little obscure place innit.

jwi

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#66 Re: Olympics 2020
December 06, 2019, 07:49:31 am
I have been told by reliable sources that the sport section of Slovenian newspapers regularly features climbing news.

L'équipe certainly does.

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#67 Re: Olympics 2020
December 06, 2019, 09:56:46 am
There's an interesting two part Science on Sport podcast on talent identification and early specialisation.  IIRC typically around 85% of people who are fast tracked as pre-teens are no longer in the system for that sport at 17-18 years.  Mental burn out and injury were big factors - with late specialisation being viewed as a good thing for maintaining enthusiasm and avoiding chronic injury.  Also, a lot of precocious youths are the result of having advantageous birth dates re the cut-off dates for age group selection, or have just matured a few years early - both advantages that disappear into adulthood. 

https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/how-to-make-a-champion-part-i/id1461719225?i=1000446817014

https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/how-to-make-champion-part-ii-should-you-be-woods-or/id1461719225?i=1000447936269

https://play.acast.com/s/realscienceofsport/aa22af3b-ff8a-4755-a1b1-5ef75c0d908b

https://play.acast.com/s/realscienceofsport/6169cf6a-c4ad-47c2-98ab-2cab2db99357

duncan

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#68 Re: Olympics 2020
December 06, 2019, 09:59:09 am
What has happened to the hyped wonder kid Ashima?

Should she be delisted:devangel:

Doylo

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#69 Re: Olympics 2020
December 06, 2019, 11:48:48 am
And they don’t weigh 6 stone anymore.

GraemeA

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#70 Re: Olympics 2020
December 06, 2019, 01:58:34 pm
Speculation time -
I guess Alanna Yip must be a shoe-in for the female pan American spot. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock? Any other continental champs that could be reasonably predicted? I guess the African and oceanian (sp?) comps can't have a massive depth of field? Who are the contenders for Asian champs discounting the Japanese? Jongwon Chon must be a good shout? Europeans must still be pretty open I guess.

Also, can the tripartite  commission place break the 2 per country rule?

Alannah stands a good chance but Valentino Aguado from ARG might challenge for the place.
Oceania would be the favourite for Oceania  ;)

SA Chris

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#71 Re: Olympics 2020
December 06, 2019, 02:34:05 pm
[
Katie Brown?

That's the one! Faded away and then made a comeback with some hardish crack / trad routes recently.

teestub

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#72 Re: Olympics 2020
December 06, 2019, 03:10:25 pm
2) The setting (setters) will have a massive influence on the results particularly in the final

This must be right - do you know how that will be handled Graeme? I know that's always an issue, but in a world cup it all evens out over several events and a win means less, so there's less incentive to try and influence setting style, but the Olympics is different.

This vid about the Hachioji setting popped up in my feed today,  I thought it was fascinating and the pressure is going to be even more next year


jwi

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#73 Re: Olympics 2020
December 06, 2019, 04:41:39 pm


From the eminently readable A framework for understanding the training process leading to elite performance.

Quote
Long-term periodisation progress should not be subordinated to short-term competitive events. Once talent has been identified at a young age, there is a tendency to exploit an athlete with early specialisation and an over-ambitious competitive calendar. Training tends to focus on the outcome (winning) rather than the process (optimal training) and over- competing results in under-training. This often produces successful junior champions but they do not progress to be competitive at a senior level due to burnout (see section 5).

Didier Rabatou is well versed in sport science, I assume the same is true for his wife.

That said, maybe femal sport climbing is heading the way of some gymnastic events where puberty spells the end of the career, and only every fourth cohort (those who will be 15 at the time of olympics) is worth training.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2022, 11:37:27 am by shark »

jwi

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#74 Re: Olympics 2020
December 09, 2019, 11:07:23 am
https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2019/dec/09/russia-banned-from-tokyo-olympics-and-football-world-cup

So that would make Fanny Gibert eligible for the Olympics, lest Iuliia Kaplina be able to prove she has not been involved in any doping activity?

 

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