[wasbeen]

Ironically in the woman's final, they ended up setting two slab boulders that suited lead climbers and a lead route that favoured boulderers.

[bigironhorse]

I guess he is suggesting that if the two Japanese climbers could be selected then they would count towards the six that can be nominated, so the 7th or 8th placed climbers could be at risk of having invites revoked. I believe there are ongoing negotiations between the ifsc and Japanese team regarding this.

[highrepute]

I think he was referring to the Japanese suing the IFSC. As Bigironhorse says.

There's an article on ukc about it I'd summarise but I don't understand it well enough.

[bigironhorse]

I don't understand it well enough.

Ditto.

I think the long and short of it is that the IFSC intended to invite climbers immediately after they achieved a qualifying result, and that the climbers would have to accept shortly after being invited. On the other hand the Japanese team thought they could get as many climbers as possible in qualifying positions and then select who to send at a later date.

Disclaimer: could be bollocks.

[finbarrr]

i really hope that when/if Adam Ondra makes it to the final at the olympics, he'll use the  speed event as a warm up route, climbing it slowly and deliberately , saving all his energy for the other events.

[bigironhorse]

Updated lists of qualified climbers:

1	GARNBRET	Janja	SLO
2	NOGUCHI	Akiyo	JPN
3	COXSEY	Shauna	GBR
4	MIROSLAW	Aleksandra	POL
5	NONAKA	Miho	JPN
6	KLINGLER	Petra	SUI
7	RABOUTOU	Brooke	USA
8	PILZ	Jessica	AUT
9	CHANOURDIE	Julia	FRA
10	KRAMPL	Mia	SLO
11	KAPLINA	Iuliia	RUS
12	CONDIE	Kyra	USA
13	ROGORA	Laura	ITA
14	SONG	YiLing	CHN

1	NARASAKI	Tomoa	JPN
2	SCHUBERT	Jakob	AUT
3	KHAIBULLIN	Rishat	KAZ
4	HARADA	Kai	JPN
5	MAWEM	Mickael	FRA
6	MEGOS	Alexander	GER
7	FOSSALI	Ludovico	ITA
8	MCCOLL	Sean	CAN
9	ONDRA	Adam	CZE
10	PAN	YuFei	CHN
11	GINÉS LÓPEZ	Alberto	ESP
12	HOJER	Jan	GER
13	MAWEM	Bassa	FRA
14	COLEMAN	Nathaniel	USA

[SA Chris]

Looking at results, from Toulouse, did William Bosi only just miss the cut?

What chances has he got left now?

[Duma]

Speculation time -
I guess Alanna Yip must be a shoe-in for the female pan American spot. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock? Any other continental champs that could be reasonably predicted? I guess the African and oceanian (sp?) comps can't have a massive depth of field? Who are the contenders for Asian champs discounting the Japanese? Jongwon Chon must be a good shout? Europeans must still be pretty open I guess.

Also, can the tripartite  commission place break the 2 per country rule?

[abarro81]

Looking at results, from Toulouse, did William Bosi only just miss the cut?

What chances has he got left now?

European champs is last chance I believe...

Also, can the tripartite  commission place break the 2 per country rule?

No, I think because no-one from the random small countries qualified to use it that it gets assigned to the next down the list in the World Champs, taking the quota into account... may be wrong on that though.

[gme]

. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock?

What has happened to the hyped wonder kid Ashima? She really has seemed to struggle with the step up to adulthood unlike Janja who is a similar age and has just got better and better since she moved to the seniors. Ashima looked like the real deal but now seems behind a fair few of the others. Is it a classic case of american over hype or just a wobble.

I have not seen newyorker or national geo running Janja articles.

[SA Chris]

Looking at results, from Toulouse, did William Bosi only just miss the cut?

What chances has he got left now?

European champs is last chance I believe...

Ooof, tough field.

[Duma]

True, but no French or Germans eases it a little

[abarro81]

Plus some of the best from other countries have qualified already - Ondra, Schubert, Gines Lopez... It's not gonna be a cruise, but certainly not out of the question either.

[Wood FT]

. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock?

What has happened to the hyped wonder kid Ashima? She really has seemed to struggle with the step up to adulthood unlike Janja who is a similar age and has just got better and better since she moved to the seniors. Ashima looked like the real deal but now seems behind a fair few of the others. Is it a classic case of american over hype or just a wobble.

I have not seen newyorker or national geo running Janja articles.

too much Coke

[Duma]

. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock?

What has happened to the hyped wonder kid Ashima? She really has seemed to struggle with the step up to adulthood unlike Janja who is a similar age and has just got better and better since she moved to the seniors. Ashima looked like the real deal but now seems behind a fair few of the others. Is it a classic case of american over hype or just a wobble.

I have not seen newyorker or national geo running Janja articles.

Tbf Ashima was pretty astonishing in 2014-2016, still better record than Janja outdoors I think?  She's also 2 years younger I believe.

[Muenchener]

I have not seen newyorker or national geo running Janja articles.

I bet Slovenskje Merkur (or whatever it's actually called) does though. Price of coming from a little obscure place innit.

[jwi]

I have been told by reliable sources that the sport section of Slovenian newspapers regularly features climbing news.

L'équipe certainly does.

[moose]

There's an interesting two part Science on Sport podcast on talent identification and early specialisation.  IIRC typically around 85% of people who are fast tracked as pre-teens are no longer in the system for that sport at 17-18 years.  Mental burn out and injury were big factors - with late specialisation being viewed as a good thing for maintaining enthusiasm and avoiding chronic injury.  Also, a lot of precocious youths are the result of having advantageous birth dates re the cut-off dates for age group selection, or have just matured a few years early - both advantages that disappear into adulthood. 

https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/how-to-make-a-champion-part-i/id1461719225?i=1000446817014

https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/how-to-make-champion-part-ii-should-you-be-woods-or/id1461719225?i=1000447936269

https://play.acast.com/s/realscienceofsport/aa22af3b-ff8a-4755-a1b1-5ef75c0d908b

https://play.acast.com/s/realscienceofsport/6169cf6a-c4ad-47c2-98ab-2cab2db99357

[duncan]

What has happened to the hyped wonder kid Ashima?

Should she be delisted? 

[Doylo]

And they don’t weigh 6 stone anymore.

[GraemeA]

Speculation time -
I guess Alanna Yip must be a shoe-in for the female pan American spot. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock? Any other continental champs that could be reasonably predicted? I guess the African and oceanian (sp?) comps can't have a massive depth of field? Who are the contenders for Asian champs discounting the Japanese? Jongwon Chon must be a good shout? Europeans must still be pretty open I guess.

Also, can the tripartite  commission place break the 2 per country rule?

Alannah stands a good chance but Valentino Aguado from ARG might challenge for the place.
Oceania would be the favourite for Oceania 

[SA Chris]

[
Katie Brown?

That's the one! Faded away and then made a comeback with some hardish crack / trad routes recently.

[teestub]

2) The setting (setters) will have a massive influence on the results particularly in the final

This must be right - do you know how that will be handled Graeme? I know that's always an issue, but in a world cup it all evens out over several events and a win means less, so there's less incentive to try and influence setting style, but the Olympics is different.

This vid about the Hachioji setting popped up in my feed today,  I thought it was fascinating and the pressure is going to be even more next year

[jwi]

From the eminently readable A framework for understanding the training process leading to elite performance.

Long-term periodisation progress should not be subordinated to short-term competitive events. Once talent has been identified at a young age, there is a tendency to exploit an athlete with early specialisation and an over-ambitious competitive calendar. Training tends to focus on the outcome (winning) rather than the process (optimal training) and over- competing results in under-training. This often produces successful junior champions but they do not progress to be competitive at a senior level due to burnout (see section 5).

Didier Rabatou is well versed in sport science, I assume the same is true for his wife.

That said, maybe femal sport climbing is heading the way of some gymnastic events where puberty spells the end of the career, and only every fourth cohort (those who will be 15 at the time of olympics) is worth training.

[jwi]

https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2019/dec/09/russia-banned-from-tokyo-olympics-and-football-world-cup

So that would make Fanny Gibert eligible for the Olympics, lest Iuliia Kaplina be able to prove she has not been involved in any doping activity?