[Fiend]

Can someone gimme a time for that plz

[GraemeA]

He climbed 2nd

[Fiend]

Cheers, that was pretty exciting! Bolted into another volume rather than the wall, might have made a difference.

[GraemeA]

I wonder whether the original screws had a shoulder rather than threaded all the way.

[Fiend]

I wonder if Kruder is going to book a trip to the Lleyn given his stoicism in the situation?

[ghisino]

I wonder if Kruder is going to book a trip to the Lleyn given his stoicism in the situation?

or the dolomites

[Duma]

So given 2 japanese men got through, all the other men in the finals have a place at Tokyo 2020?

[remus]

So given 2 japanese men got through, all the other men in the finals have a place at Tokyo 2020?

Yes.

[bigironhorse]

1	NARASAKI*	Tomoa	JPN
2	SCHUBERT	Jakob	AUT
3	KHAIBULLIN	Rishat	KAZ
4	HARADA*	Kai	JPN
5	NARASAKI*	Meichi	JPN
6	FUJII*	Kokoro	JPN
7	MAWEM	Mickael	FRA
8	MEGOS	Alexander	GER
9	FOSSALI	Ludovico	ITA
10	MCCOLL	Sean	CAN
11	ONDRA	Adam	CZE
12	PAN	YuFei	CHN
13	GINÉS LÓPEZ	Alberto	ESP
14	HOJER	Jan	GER
15	MAWEM	Bassa	FRA
16	COLEMAN	Nathaniel	USA

Updated table for male Olympic climbers. I have given up on trying to work out who is confirmed for Japan so if anyone else knows what is going on let me know!

[lukeyboy]

Well I for one am really glad Ondra's made it onto that list, it would have been such a shame not to have him there in Tokyo.

[petejh]

Yep this, watched the comp yesterday and was made up that Ondra qualified. First time I've watched the combined event, found it a good watch. Especially interesting to see how the specialists all compare on their relative weakest events - the two speed specialists on the Bouldering and Ondra on the Speed etc.. Clearly he isn't a sprinter!
Felt for the French lead climber who slipped by the 3rd draw and got beaten by even the two speed specialists. I was trying to guesstimate how hard that lead route was - 8b+/c?  7c to where the speed climber fell off? Sound about right??

[Duma]

yeah Cornu looked gutted - not sure he had much chance realistically though, hes a boulderer and damage had been done in the previous 2 rounds, think he'd have needed 2nd in lead to get through.

[Coops_13]

Glad Ondra got through 

[teestub]

I’m confused by all this, don’t Japan have an additional place as hosts to fill? Or was that only if they didn’t get 2 through anyway.

[bigironhorse]

Yes the host nation quota place was only to be used if no climbers qualified in the normal way. I think Tomoa is confirmed but not sure who else is definitely going to the Olympics.

[Duma]

I think thats right, but they can choose who to send if they qualify more than 2?? Graeme?

[Duma]

So if I read the wiki page right (and it is correct), the Japanese places have all been filled? If so how can other Japanese athletes be allowed to compete at what is explicitly an olympic qualifying event, when their inclusion could change who qualifies?

[teestub]

Isn’t there some sort of ongoing court case around this issue currently?

[bigironhorse]

I think i'll trust the wiki. Hadn't seen that until now.

Crazy fall by the first climber out on the lead! Nice reverse knee bar by Margo Hayes too.

[GraemeA]

I’m confused by all this, don’t Japan have an additional place as hosts to fill? Or was that only if they didn’t get 2 through anyway.

It was never an additional place, it is just a single guaranteed place. As soon as 1 JPN climber was confirmed the place was reallocated.

[GraemeA]

I think thats right, but they can choose who to send if they qualify more than 2?? Graeme?

I think that the JMSCA thought this was the case but someone from the IOC had a different reading of the rules.
And the rules said that JPN could send athletes to Toulouse, changing this might have led to another court case.

Looking at the CAS website there is no mention of a ruling on the original suit, although a searching for JMSCA or IFSC or Climbing shows zero results so who knows.

(Edited after searching CAS website)

[bigironhorse]

Pretty disappointing for Rakovec!

[wasbeen]

It was interesting to se how the format panned out. It looks like you can begin to make some predictions for the Olympics:

1) At least one speed climber will make the last-eight final but they will come last in bouldering and lead and won't podium
2) The setting (setters) will have a massive influence on the results particularly in the final
3) The result of the qualification round will be a more robust measure of all-round 'ability' than the result of the final.

[Ru]

2) The setting (setters) will have a massive influence on the results particularly in the final

This must be right - do you know how that will be handled Graeme? I know that's always an issue, but in a world cup it all evens out over several events and a win means less, so there's less incentive to try and influence setting style, but the Olympics is different.

[teestub]

Agree, especially with only 3 boulders in the final, if you have one that doesn’t suit you (because you have 10 fused vertebrae for example!) then you have very little chance to make up ground.