[Mr E S Capegoat]

Please, it would be a massive favour and relief tbh

[Paul B]

Fine but rename the thread to 'Generally useful tips for RPers', or ' RPing Gainz' (the Z is important).

If you ranked them in order:
Pitching the difficulty correctly
Picking a route that suits (see pitching the difficulty correctly)
Getting the finnicky UK beta

would be significantly higher than re-recruitment and similar. Therefore, I challenge your 'maybe'. 

[petejh]

I’d contend that top of your list Paul should come:
‘Fly to Spain’ - If you want to do ‘hardish (for you) things in a session’ but you don’t want to adopt the ‘learn finicky beta approach’ required to do most UK H’ishT(FY)IAS.

[NaoB]

The best RPers (SuperTed; Jordan) I know are eternal optimists willing to  in poor conditions (usually stating that things are drying back) who just keep showing up and taking delight in the smallest refinements and victories.

Ha, this made me laugh! Jordan is totally obsessed with conditions - he pores over forecasts checking wind speed and direction, humidity, dew point etc and is almost always to be found at the optimum venue for the day. If he's at a crag in bad conditions (actually a fairly rare occurrence) he takes it almost personally that the weather hasn't done what the forecast said!!

It's great, we often get a decent day's cragging in by following Jordan's nose for dry rock.

Fiend, on this note about conditions, my top tip is to be flexible on venue, maybe have a couple of projects in mind at different crags, preferably with different orientations to make the best use of sun/shade and wind direction.

[Yossarian]

Fiend - are you prepared to relinquish your tight hold on the identities of the routes you’ve been trying / have had success on?

More generally, I’d be interested in suggestions for routes in the 7a-8a range in the Peak and Yorkshire that are not completely indecipherable / might suit the visiting climber who generally prefers holds that you can measure in centimetres / and that are totally awesome so driving 4-5 hrs home after failing on them isn’t too depressing.

[mrjonathanr]

Not sure if this has been said (cba trawling through..) but.. know your strengths.

There's not much point trying some Peak bouldery horrorshow in a day if your forte is really plodding stamina etc

[Fiend]

I polled this question aeons ago. I thin consensus was rests and microbeta refinement.

Cheers for this brief but pertinent point, I deliberately put it into practise bouldering this weekend (extended rests took some forcing!) and found it beneficial.

Nao - yes, conditions!! I'm pretty fixated on those too already, partly due to sweating like a sumo wrestler's arse crack.

JR - yes sensible point.

[shark]

More generally, I’d be interested in suggestions for routes in the 7a-8a range in the Peak and Yorkshire that are not completely indecipherable / might suit the visiting climber who generally prefers holds that you can measure in centimetres / and that are totally awesome so driving 4-5 hrs home after failing on them isn’t too depressing.

Peak
7A Quality Control (not totally awesome) Darl, Open Gate, Case Adjourned, Clarion Call (small holds at start)
7a+ Open Gate, Rubicon, Whose Line is it Anyway (pos 7b) Big Zipper, Armistice Day
7b Sardine, Tin Of (some small holds) Daylight Robbery
7b+ Brachiation Dance, Bored of the Lies, That was the River
7c Cry of Despair
7c+ Arch Enemies, Jug Jockey (knacky crux so maybe not a good choice)
8a Free Monster (one hard move on a small hold) Powerplant,  The Spider, Roof Warrior (some beta useful on last 3)

All the routes starting up Push Up on left side of Tor if you can deal with a couple of moves on razors on Push Up. If so Prow and Body Machine are the ones to go for.

Yorkshire
7a Consenting, Jim Grin, Against the Grain (pos 7a+)
7a+ Yosemite Wall, Appetite, Taking the Space
7b ?
7b+ Pantomime, Frankie, Cave Route Righthand, Space Race (some gnarly crimping) Obsession (Wall Climbing but not hideously small holds)
7c Dominatrix, Comedy, New Dawn (knacky start - can supply beta)
7c+ Mescalito
8a Raindogs

[Fiend]

Yoss was asking for 10m one star vertical horrors that have been polished to fuckery by people top-roping them on every single visit to the crag, right??

[Yossarian]

Yoss was asking for 10m one star vertical horrors that have been polished to fuckery by people top-roping them on every single visit to the crag, right??

*Fingers in ears*

Shhhh, this is supposed to be a syke-building exercise...

[Yossarian]

Shark: That is very helpful - thanks.
Comedy and CRR are the only two of those on my not-very-well-researched list.

[Paul B]

Ha, this made me laugh! Jordan is totally obsessed with conditions - he pores over forecasts checking wind speed and direction, humidity, dew point etc and is almost always to be found at the optimum venue for the day. If he's at a crag in bad conditions (actually a fairly rare occurrence) he takes it almost personally that the weather hasn't done what the forecast said!!

The only time I've ever seen a Marmot was sat sulking at the bottom of a route in the Dolomites. I'd sat so long (and the mood was so frosty Nat and I weren't speaking) it just popped up next to me; perhaps the benchmark I use for optimism is a little off. I'll remember that if I see you both at the crag I've made the optimum choice 

Shark: That is very helpful - thanks.
Comedy and CRR are the only two of those on my not-very-well-researched list.

Should Powerplant really make such a list? The old description was pretty much "hang on a bolt until a local turns up to tell you what to do" (I'm aware knees have been invented now).

Is there something that precludes the Ashes making the list? I can't think of anything too beta intensive about it. The sugar cube is admittedly not a huge hold.
The sticky-Ashes, 50 for the Ashes links are both worthwhile too IMO (the RH of the two can be done either into or without the 'eyes'.
50 for 5 (even if it is a sandbag)
Drag Queen (Seb's RH Dominatrix extension; the move at the lip is easier IMO)
Smooth Torquer (short and sweet; big moves on big holds)

Ob and L'Ob are significantly easier if someone else has been up previously IMO as the holds are non-obvious.