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Lake District crags with no scree on the approach or descent (Read 2320 times)

reeve

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My girlfriend and I are going to the Lakes for some trad over summer. Neither of us have done very much there at all, so looking for some recommendations, with a very niche and specific twist. Marie is recovering from knee surgery so although she is getting stronger all the time at walking uphill, loose scree is still rather problematic for her and could be potentially injurious. So, what Lake District crags can we go to which will have no scree on either the approach or the descent?

Aside from the scree-thing, as Marie is only just getting back into climbing we're probably looking at severe - HVS with a preference for fun long days out multi-pitching rather than roadside cragging - although given that those lakes don't fill themselves - some quick drying and accessible crags would be good additions for showery days.

Thanks

Scraggadoo

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If hills are not an issue, and you specifically want no scree...  Avoid Dow from memory.  I'm a little wary of recommending high mountain crags with your girlfriend recovering from her surgery!

Langdale - White Ghyll (slipknot), Gimmer and Pavey ark all fit the bill in terms of no scree from memory but may be hard on knees unless steady and slow.  I can't recall if Raven (pluto??) has any scree but it is not that far up out of them all and if there is any it will be fairly short.

There are lots of single pitch crags, in the duddon valley at the grade you're asking for stonestar and wallowbarrow are decent.  Shepherds is also good in borrowdale.

All others crags I've been to have been on generally harder stuff, or I can't remember all that well....

georgenorth

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Black Crag, Borrowdale fits the bill perfectly. There’s virtually a staircase going to the crag (built by Ray McHaffie I believe). The Mortician (HVS) is a personal favourite. Gouther Crag, Swindale is another good option.

danm

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White Ghyll will be a bit fierce on the legs I reckon. Pavey won't be too bad but it is quite a long descent down a pitched path after, might be a bit much. How about Esk? Steady but longish walk in, fantastic location and great stuff at HS-HVS? Wallabarrow is great for easy routes too with easy access and is on the way if coming from the south, also is often dry when higher crags are wet. Black Crag is a fine shout, and can be combined with Shepherds and Quayfoot if based Keswick way.

reeve

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Thanks all.

It's funny how hard it is to remember what crags actually have see at the bottom as normally I just don't commit it to memory. For example, I had totally forgotten that Dow has any scree at the bottom, but the guidebook clearly shows a massive pile of it!

So I think our plan will be for a few days in Borrowdale for shepherds and black crag, then to Duddon for the crags there and Esk buttress.

Thanks again.

Fiend

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Black Crag Wrynose is a nice easy access one for short single pitches on the best rock in the UK.

Raven Langdale has a bit of rough screey path but it's a relatively short approach of course.

Gillercombe could be a good one, steepish proper path or gentle contouring.

Neckband is surprisingly reasonable for a proper hoof (good path) but starts at HVS.

White Gyll doesn't have much loose scree but that's the only thing in the favour of the walk-in, it's a dire hoof otherwise.


SamT

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Might be worth considering what the descent off the top is like too!!

More often than not it involves a scramble down a scree filled gully round the side.

Had a nice time at Sergeants Crag slabs which I cant remember having a scree approach and certainly had a decent ab station for your descent.

Pluto has been mentioned at Raven Crag but it is a big traverse and needs a confident 2nd who'll be removing what little gear I recall before the awkard moves.

 

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