[tomtom]

This is frustrating me 😃 three good sessions this year and I’m now up comfortably to the top two crimps every time - but just cant seem to get my feet right for the final throw.

I’ve tried the little crack / mono up out right (that’s been suggested) but can’t get my feet right to move to that (it’s a slap to a two finger half pad edge)

There are a few footholds and I seem to be too tall to use the higher ones, but too short to use the lower ones (like in a YouTube vid with a bloke in red trousers).

Smallest violin etc... for tall person struggling.. 😃 but am I missing anything? Video below with three attempts - slightly different feet between 1 and 2&3

[Stabbsy]

I use the spiky thing for your right foot (which I think is what you’re using), get the two pad edge you mention and slap from there. I’m pretty sure I can get the two pad edge statically from the spiky foothold, then do the same slap as you’re doing but from less far away. I think getting the two pad edge just requires you to bone the left hand really hard and maybe flag with the left foot.

[tomtom]

I use the spiky thing for your right foot (which I think is what you’re using), get the two pad edge you mention and slap from there. I’m pretty sure I can get the two pad edge statically from the spiky foothold, then do the same slap as you’re doing but from less far away. I think getting the two pad edge just requires you to bone the left hand really hard and maybe flag with the left foot.

Cheers stabbsy. Yes. Rf on the little (but positive spike). Tried going across for the two pad edge (in centre of star cracks) from lower down but it was a semi controlled deadpoint. Not tried it from higher. The Lh and RH crimp could do with a good clean - which is a ladder job I think - then they’d feel a lot better.... though they weren’t bad yesterday.

Find it hard to wind my LH into a crimp too - and seem to end up half crimping it. Funny - just doesn’t feel right pulling it into a crimp. Which may be necessary.

Is it one of those that when you’ve worked it out it’s “ah. That’s why it’s 7A+” problems 😃

[sxrxg]

I think it is just one of those it is a hard old school vertical testpiece problems that would never be given 7a+ if put up today... Think Hanks Wall but on limestone

[tomtom]

I think it is just one of those it is a hard old school vertical testpiece problems that would never be given 7a+ if put up today... Think Hanks Wall but on limestone

:D it did remind me of hanks wall - with my elbows by my waist boning down on edges... bigger holds thank Hanks though...

[GCW]

I think I use the same right foot as you but stay much straighter on (no dropping the left knee).  I also use that two finger sharp pocket/ crack which lets you stand up and get a higher left foot.  Looks like you're making the last move a lot bigger than it needs to be:




I thought 7A+ was fair, Hank's is another step up in difficulty:

[SA Chris]

The prodigal son returns!!

[tomtom]

I think I use the same right foot as you but stay much straighter on (no dropping the left knee).  I also use that two finger sharp pocket/ crack which lets you stand up and get a higher left foot.  Looks like you're making the last move a lot bigger than it needs to be:

Cheers G - I tried the move you did at 0:37 (Flick right to the pocket/crack) with my feet in exactly the same place, but it didnt feel right - maybe persist...

Hanks? Maybe the pulls at the top turn out to be harder but the sequence is easier to read/work out..

You getting out at all?

[galpinos]

Tom, I have never tried this problem or even climbed on that wall but......

You don't push from your legs at all. Your right knee stays at the same angle and your hips are in exactly the same place. I've no idea what the holds are like but i would be expecting your left leg to push your hips across toards your right foot and your right leg to push up.

If you look at GCW's vid, he extends both legs.

[tomtom]

You don't push from your legs at all. Your right knee stays at the same angle and your hips are in exactly the same place. I've no idea what the holds are like but i would be expecting your left leg to push your hips across toards your right foot and your right leg to push up.

Maybe not best seen on those attempts - but I do push up with my left leg until its extended but yes I need to rock over onto the right leg and extend.

The problem is.. the hand holds are not great as you move up past them. RH is a 1/1.5 pad 2-3 finger wide flatty/slight sloper. LH is better - 1 pad 2-3 fingers slightly incut. Which means that they're fine when you're under them with hips in, but as they get to chest height they stop working!

If you look at GCW's vid, he extends both legs.

to get around this GCW gets the (even shitter) RH crimpy edge - allowing him to get a bit more height keeping hold of  the (better) LH and then working his LF higher before making the slap.

I've noticed that in the move at 0:37 G has his LF lower than I did when I tried that move - which I can see making a difference so thats one to try

[SA Chris]

Improve your hip flexibilty. 10 to 1 says it's not great.

[nai]

Improve your hip flexibilty. 10 to 1 says it's not great.

I'll have a quid, tenner, ton, grand, my house on that

[tomtom]

Its not great - but pretty sure thats not holding me back here... 

[Stabbsy]

I use the spiky thing for your right foot (which I think is what you’re using), get the two pad edge you mention and slap from there. I’m pretty sure I can get the two pad edge statically from the spiky foothold, then do the same slap as you’re doing but from less far away. I think getting the two pad edge just requires you to bone the left hand really hard and maybe flag with the left foot.

Having just watched GCWs video, my above description isn't quite right - it's a while since I did it. My sequence is pretty much identical to his, getting the 2 finger crimp from the lower RF and then stepping up to the spike. Probably not surprising as we're similar heights.

Its not great - but pretty sure thats not holding me back here... 

Do you not think hip flexibility could be part of the issue? When you set up for that last move, your arse is stuck out - I think because your hips don't open up. I'd say it makes the slap less controllable in that you have to slap from lower. The more you can keep your hips close in to the wall, the longer the left hand stays good.

[SA Chris]

And we all know the hips don't lie.

[tomtom]

Delving through my out-takes

First trying the upper seam - then then starcracks/mono. On the second bit, I have my LF on an edge about 30cm to the right of where GCW has it (his is in a hold about 10cm below the tick mark).. which I can see would put me in better balance for the move to the starcracks/mono hold...

[GCW]

Get the right feet and it’s a static move. Albeit boning the left hand (I seem to recall if you get it far right to almost jam your index it lets you crimp it).

Still running a lot (just nailed my second Lakeland 100 finish) and Boulder UK 1-2 per week. Not been out in years.

As much as I hate to quote Nik, it’s all on the feet and a case of “just stand up”.

[tomtom]

Get the right feet and it’s a static move. Albeit boning the left hand (I seem to recall if you get it far right to almost jam your index it lets you crimp it).

Still running a lot (just nailed my second Lakeland 100 finish) and Boulder UK 1-2 per week. Not been out in years.

As much as I hate to quote Nik, it’s all on the feet and a case of “just stand up”.

yeah - I have trouble turning that LH into a crimp...

[GCW]

Forgot to say, the way I do the start is how it was originally recorded by Greg (we are going back to nwbouldering.co.uk times) - it was a Topo with specified holds. Whilst it’s less fingery and a bit easier, I personally can’t see why using the undercut at the start isn’t legit as it’s on line. It’s not specific in the new LakesBloc book, so go for it.

[andy_e]

Return Of The Lanky Twat

[galpinos]

Tom, the beta seems to be coalescing around:

Pull harder
Just stand up

[cheque]

+ Climb faster.

[tomtom]

Get stronger?
Tops off?

[SA Chris]

Wait for cooler connies

Take a Stepladder

Give the crimps a brush.

[tomtom]

Well, on my way up there again... so see what happens today :D

I have a cold coming on* and feeling a bit below par*

*standard pre-emtive excuses

[tomtom]

✅👍


Thanks for all the beta/suggestions... GCW’s foot beta did the job. Went second go.

[GCW]

Nice one