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Puccio injured again...! (Read 2770 times)

sheavi

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#25 Re: Puccio injured again...!
August 03, 2019, 03:15:34 pm
I never been less surprised in my life. Female climbers who've been that skinny for that long should stick to roped climbing.

Female athlete triad

That might be a bit of a leap. A quick Google suggests that links between female athlete triad and ligament injuries are pretty minimal, and are more likely to be caused by overuse.

https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Diane_Elliot/publication/43532358_Young_Womens_Anterior_Cruciate_Ligament_Injuries_An_Expanded_Model_and_Prevention_Paradigm/links/0f31752f687f636deb000000/Young-Womens-Anterior-Cruciate-Ligament-Injuries-An-Expanded-Model-and-Prevention-Paradigm.pdf

Of course we don't have enough info in this particular case whether The Female Triad is relevant.  However, if I were involved with young female climbers I wouldn't be happy using her as a role model because of the apparent obsession with low body fat etc.

Paul B

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#26 Re: Puccio injured again...!
August 04, 2019, 04:15:35 pm
Max height in accordance with BS EN 12572 is 4.5m. I think our highest bit is 4.2m in main Works although I think we hit 4.5m in Unit E.

What's your thought on this with the change in walls using ever bigger volumes and Kilter style dongs? Minimum mat extents with walls (specifically slabs) doesn't seem sufficient.

It's also interesting regarding the IFSC rule about setting. I don't often watch the Bouldering World Cups but have there been many/any external fractures? Plenty of the walls I frequent seem pretty happy setting big last moves, often with feet quite high which I now simply won't do ( :sick: ).

gollum

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#27 Re: Puccio injured again...!
August 04, 2019, 06:30:33 pm
Get really twitchy with heel or toe hooks on moves at the top of things, as never sure I will be able to get close to s decent landing.

SA Chris

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#28 Re: Puccio injured again...!
August 06, 2019, 04:54:34 pm
I'm always massively over cautious on last moves indoors and I generally down-climb to half height before jumping, if possible. My fear has always been that the mats are not soft enough to protect against soft tissue injury if joints hit at awkward angles from that height.

In my aging years I am too (especially with all the running impacting on legs as it is), always downclimb a bit at high walls and push myself clear when jumping off, especially on vert or just off vert to make sure i don't hit anything or land near edge of mats.