UKBouldering.com

Training with golfers (Read 3146 times)

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
Training with golfers
July 20, 2019, 01:56:03 pm
What, if anything, can I still do (safely) while I'm rehabbing my elbow? Fingerboarding?

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#1 Re: Training with golfers
July 20, 2019, 02:14:09 pm
I've actually found controlled training has helped rehab golfer's elbow.

Slowly going up and down a mini campus board with feet on the floor, only what I can do with no pain. Lock offs aggravate my elbow, so I think it helps to very gradually strengthen that move. I move the feet a little deeper if that it feels easy, or do bigger lock offs, or use smaller holds. I imagine you could do the same thing with a woody.

And then some hangs on the same board, with hands in different positions - some with both hands on the same rung, some with hands on different rungs.

Just 20min of this per night at first. Very gradually progressing to small campus moves on the bigger holds. And always stopping if there is a twinge. I think it's important to not overdo it. Treat it as movement rehab, not a training session, so there isn't a temptation to push on through pain. And then do rehab exercises after.

Last time I had elbow issues, this kept my fingers fairly strong and made the transition back to climbing easier.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#2 Re: Training with golfers
July 20, 2019, 03:32:21 pm
Thought this was going to be a thread about Jerry...

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1971
  • Karma: +120/-0
#3 Re: Training with golfers
July 20, 2019, 05:00:19 pm
In my experience medial epicondylitis gets worse when there is a change in training intensity either up or down. So resting, then starting to train again doesn't work. Basically find out what triggers it and don't do it, but do everything else. Once warmed up, the pain often subsides or goes away. I have also found (and anecdotally this seems common) that pain is triggered especially when the ring finger is engaged, so you might find that training front two is ok, but the same move using the ring finger is painful.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#5 Re: Training with golfers
July 20, 2019, 09:09:18 pm
Yoga  :2thumbsup:

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5377
  • Karma: +242/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#6 Re: Training with golfers
August 06, 2019, 09:48:32 am
Shark linked to this in power club thread. It’s excellent. Is Dave Mac Dave Brailsford in disguise? Marginal gains etc :-\
Anyway:

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#7 Re: Training with golfers
August 06, 2019, 12:05:59 pm
Yeah just watched that this morning, and now reassured enough to be fingerboarding at ucr

Danny

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 855
  • Karma: +43/-3
#8 Re: Training with golfers
August 10, 2019, 09:22:03 am
Shark linked to this in power club thread. It’s excellent. Is Dave Mac Dave Brailsford in disguise? Marginal gains etc :-\
Anyway:


Sooo, from this is the prescription, roughly, to add loads more weight to your rehab exercises and do loads of them every day? Quite different to what I've been doing.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#9 Re: Training with golfers
August 10, 2019, 10:05:03 am
I’ve had a mild twinge there in my left elbow for a month that’s not got worse or better.

Does golfers start this way and get progressively worse or is it a sudden onset thing?

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#10 Re: Training with golfers
August 10, 2019, 10:24:28 am
I’ve had a mild twinge there in my left elbow for a month that’s not got worse or better.

Does golfers start this way and get progressively worse or is it a sudden onset thing?

Rupert's post above is right on the money. Look at the likely cause, such as something repetitive in an aggravating position (trying Ben's roof a lot?)and change it, rather than looking for a catch all diagnosis and treatment for what would be better called medial elbow pain.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#11 Re: Training with golfers
August 10, 2019, 11:06:46 am
Rupert's post above is right on the money. Look at the likely cause, such as something repetitive in an aggravating position (trying Ben's roof a lot?)and change it, rather than looking for a catch all diagnosis and treatment for what would be better called medial elbow pain.

Thanks Toby -  I had been pondering this as well as Ive been doing a lot of weighted deadhangs with arguably poor form (flexion in the wrists) which might be aggravating the elbow. Don’t think Ben is to blame! Will be using strict half crimps from now on with wrists in a neutral position to see if that is better


tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#12 Re: Training with golfers
August 10, 2019, 11:57:03 am
I keep expecting to see Will post on this thread gushing about how he’d just done a circuit at the Depot with Rory McIlroy

😃

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#13 Re: Training with golfers
August 10, 2019, 06:48:32 pm
Mine went from not there to definitely golfers in a week.
Agree with Toby and Ru, rest and specific gentle rehab didn't seem to improve, but I'm back doing plenty of press ups, a little bit of fingerboarding, more volume on the rehab, and some easy climbing and have noticed a difference.

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5377
  • Karma: +242/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#14 Re: Training with golfers
August 10, 2019, 07:22:14 pm
Grumbling on in my left elbow, manageable at the moment.

A few years ago had it on the right and it had gone from suddenly feeling a bit tight to being unable to climb on it in just a few sessions. Just have it to play it by ear really.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal