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Silverdale - where to start? (Read 8727 times)

nik at work

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#25 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 07:27:37 am
I also look back fondly. The climbing, the cakes and the company were all delightful  :)

Will Hunt

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#26 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 04:29:29 pm
We're off to a flying start here. I flashed The Coil so I expect that to tumble through the grades, settling to around the Font 3, maybe soft Font 3+.
I'm sure that I must have broken a rule. Start at the base of the crack on flakey holds, reach up and over and take the top of the crack as a nice gaston finger lock with the LH, take a little crozzle out right with the RH, sort feet and pop for slopey break. I topped out using the same jugs that you use to top out the 6C+ to the right.
How wrong did I get it?

georgenorth

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#27 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 08:44:30 pm
Sounds legit! ‘The Wrath of Khan’ (7B) goes up the crozzles on the wall to the right - it’s good too.

tomtom

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#28 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 08:59:17 pm
No further news... did New Rose present a sterner challenge?

Will Hunt

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#29 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 09:19:59 pm
Very much so. Definitely more than a grade's difference between that and The Coil. Felt worth the 7B+. You've really got to crimp the shit out of the crozzle. I tickled the high left hand hold a couple of times but never really got the bit that is a hold.

Very much enjoyed the afternoon there. Can't understand why people don't like it. Some of trad looks nice as well.

Did have a go at Wrath of Khan and touched the break but the crimps were getting a bit soapy. Felt closest getting the top crozzle with the right and then getting a shit crimp to the left. Think that'd be fine (and much easier than New Rose) on a cold day.

Worth noting for anyone reading this in the future that New Rose isn't really an easy one to pad with one person's worth of pads. The walk in is fine. A pleasant 20 mins.

tomtom

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#30 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 09:30:54 pm
Glad you liked it. I was the other way around. Never got close on the coil but did new Rose in 3 sessions... a good few years back (post hold breakage). Once you latch that lh it’s all good. Seem to remember a very specific way of holding the Crozzle with RH that worked really well...

tomtom

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#31 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 09:38:21 pm
I even took a picture of how I held it. July 2013...

https://1drv.ms/i/s!AhKYMIYk2hJ9lflqEEjQh9wesXdz2A

Will Hunt

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#32 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 09:57:11 pm
Ooooo. Three fingers in play! Nice! I was boning two fingers into it with thumb wrapped over. James Malloch joined me and I think he put two fingers in and pinched crozzle with his thumb and liked that.

teestub

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#33 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 09:58:36 pm

Very much enjoyed the afternoon there. Can't understand why people don't like it. Some of trad looks nice as well.


Glad you had a good one, always slightly hesitant to recommend places I’ve only been once years ago, but I had a good day out too.

FWIW I remember doing Rose in a few goes and having a total nightmare in Coil.

tomtom

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#34 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 11:47:45 pm

Very much enjoyed the afternoon there. Can't understand why people don't like it. Some of trad looks nice as well.


Glad you had a good one, always slightly hesitant to recommend places I’ve only been once years ago, but I had a good day out too.

FWIW I remember doing Rose in a few goes and having a total nightmare in Coil.

Both you and Andy iirc.

andy popp

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#35 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 14, 2019, 10:54:41 pm
Yep, I think I did NR on my 3rd go but then really struggled on The Coil - when I did eventually begin to suss it out and got up into a position to go for the break my chalkbag string snagged on a tiny down pointing spike, rendering me completely immobile. Nothing would dislodge it and I had to jump off.

 

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