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Silverdale - where to start? (Read 8725 times)

Will Hunt

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Silverdale - where to start?
July 10, 2019, 08:57:54 pm
Sit rep. I'll be in Kendal on Saturday. Will probably be free from mid afternoon so keen to get out. Best bet is probably Silverdale for accessibility on the way home. I've never been to the area.

Would like klassik tickzz rather than a project, so probably high 6s and low 7s. Will be on my tod so decent landings that I can cover with one and a bit pads are a must. Don't mind a bit of height if it's a straight fall into a good landing.

Voodoo People at Warton looks good but might be too hard to knock out in a session.

Discohesion at Cringlebarrow looks brilliant but is that too high for a lone climber? Didn't look to be much else at the crag?

O'ert Road looks OK.

The Coil at Farleton looks perfect and there looks to be other good stuff there. Could be a goer.

Any suggestions? Should I go to a different area?

teestub

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#1 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 10, 2019, 09:08:47 pm
I think Farleton could suit your requirements well, had a fun day out there with TomTom and Dr Popp several years ago. Like most Lakes venues (not in the Lakes) its not super extensive, but the stuff around New Rose and the Coil area should be sufficient for a quality session.

It's also vert crimping, so less chance of you getting in trouble on something steep with big holds!

andy popp

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#2 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 10, 2019, 09:10:23 pm
The Coli and New Rose at Farleton are both great and would be fine by yourself I think (The Coil definitely). Lovely spot, bit of a walk in but nothing epic.

Edit: Ooops, cross-posting. Didn't realize teestub was you Tim.

georgenorth

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#3 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 10, 2019, 09:20:57 pm
I second the recommendation for Farleton. The Coil is a classy problem. New Rose is also superb, but very morpho.

For O’ert Road you really need 2 pads minimum. It’s only a 2 minute walk in though, so easy enough if you’re on your own.

Shallow Grave on Red Wall at Trowbarrow would be another option. The traverse is good value too.

tomtom

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#4 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 10, 2019, 09:28:02 pm
Ok some more beta...

Farelton. Great - shade in morning sun after 1 or 2. New Rose superb. Coil one I need to go back for. But... 20+ min walk in uphill. Though parking 5 min from Kendal M6 junction.

Woodwell (best bet?). Whistler (7A+) is one you’ll like... Kiss the Dragon 7B Traverse is ace and I liked Rigpa once I’d sorted out the tricky for me beta. Oert road is Angel Deelite 7A+ that I can’t do and find frustrating but gets three stars etc.. it’s 10 min from motorway and is just a lovely spot. 2 min walk in.

Trowbarrow on way to woodwell. Harder stuff on Shelterstone (dries fast if it’s been raining) quick walk in. Shallow grave (as GEORGE said) is good hard very 7A+ but the Traverse for me on red wall is polished lime grimness :D

Good stuff on Wharton but harder to find things and bit of a walk in - and watch for ticks if you go there.

tomtom

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#5 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 10, 2019, 09:29:29 pm
Woodwell and trowbarrow both in one easy hit an option.

Also - kentmere - 20 min from Kendal... plenty of stuff in the shade in little font.

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#7 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 10, 2019, 10:29:46 pm
Discohesion at Cringlebarrow is ok on your own with two pads - feels a bit gripping on the rockover but then it's fine. One of my favourites. It'll be cool and shady there too. Not much else under 7B though.
Second the Woodwell vote for short walk in and excellent coffee, and lowball stuff that good on your tod. Shelter Stone at Trowbarrow feels pretty gnarly without a spotter. If you like vert crimping then Shallow Grave is ace, likewise Farleton has plenty of that style. Unlike big georgenorth I think New Rose isn't morpho (you can rock over high on it if short), but I can't touch The Coil so I'm insisting it's a reach thing!

Will Hunt

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#8 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 07:54:06 am
Thanks all. I'll probably head to Farleton and have a go at those nice wall climbs.
Noticed on UKC that there's something recorded as Newer Rose at 7B since hold breakage. Did this get easier? New book has it at 7B+.

Hopefully I don't get completely shut down!

georgenorth

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#9 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 08:49:52 am
Confusingly, New Rose got (unofficially) renamed New(er) Rose after it was re-climbed following the hold breakage. It’s now gone back to being New Rose, which is good because New(er) Rose is a shit name for a classic problem. There’s a discussion about the grade here: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=7318.50
« Last Edit: July 11, 2019, 08:55:56 am by georgenorth »

grimer

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#10 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 10:23:41 am
I thought Farleton was a bit of a miserable spot and found it a bit disappointing. Didn't do anything remotely hard there, in case that affects the value of my opinion. Woodwell was lovely. So was Warton, although the latter was a bit findy.

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#11 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 10:50:30 am
I also really liked Warton, but agree it is a bit findy (new favourite word...)
Nothing further to add sorry.

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#12 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 11:26:05 am
Confusingly, New Rose got (unofficially) renamed New(er) Rose after it was re-climbed following the hold breakage. It’s now gone back to being New Rose, which is good because New(er) Rose is a shit name for a classic problem. There’s a discussion about the grade here: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=7318.50

Ridiculous to rename routes/boulder problems because a hold breaks.

georgenorth

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#13 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 11:55:30 am
Ridiculous to rename routes/boulder problems because a hold breaks.
Word. I’m not sure that it actually got renamed, but it got put on the UKC database as a separate problem. Obviously people then start putting videos up of ‘New(er) Rose’ e.g.
Before you know it, you’ve got a fiasco on your hands...

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#14 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 11:58:43 am
Having been local to this area for over a year I couldn't wait to leave tbh. You'd be best choosing a hardish probem you want to project as there aren't really any venues you can turn up at and enjoy a circuit. I could never find anything that inspired me to put my boots on at Woodwell, that traverse the G does in Stick It is worth a visit just to point and laugh at. I did like Hutton Roof as an evening hangout but it's a bit limited and easy compared to venues elsewhere. Trowbarrow is good for easy/mid trad but red walls are like a soapy minus ten.

On the plus side it is the most biodiverse area in the north of the UK and an AONB for good reason. The natural highlights are many and varied. A disappointing visit to Trowbarrow is easily remedied with a walk round Leighton Moss over the road.

andy popp

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#15 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 12:29:38 pm
I might open a book on how much Will downgrades New Rose by.

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#16 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 12:32:50 pm
6C+

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#17 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 12:38:57 pm
6C, safe bet.

Will Hunt

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#18 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 12:51:51 pm
 :lol:

Does an each way bet pay out if I offer an upgrade? Not impossible given my latest performance on a supposed 7A (see last week's power club and Instagram videos in the extremely unlikely event that you're remotely interested). The more I replay it in my head the closer it gets to 8B.

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#19 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 01:16:57 pm
Yeah, but you'll path a reachy fingery 7B wall because it's your style.

Will Hunt

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#20 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 01:21:44 pm
Well, GCW has already knocked it down to 6A+ and I'll not be outdone. Those 6C bets are looking like pretty long odds now.


tomtom

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#21 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 01:41:14 pm
Yeah, but you'll path a reachy fingery 7B wall because it's your style.

Exactly. It’s quite a schlep up the hill for two problems Will - and don’t forget if it’s after 1/2 they’ll be in the sun.

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#22 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 11, 2019, 01:53:06 pm
Well, GCW has already knocked it down to 6A+ and I'll not be outdone. Those 6C bets are looking like pretty long odds now.

I suspect that was a joke prompted by it being downgraded from 7C after GCW climbed it. Here's what GCW said to someone on UKB shortly after:

As I'm sure you'll know, it was always 7c- but then Greg saw I managed to keep my low foot on, and he (and others) have managed it the same way.  I may be lanky but the same sequence has been done by a few others.  Greg seems to think 7a+/b.

Basically I reckon if you can pull really hard on that foul pocket, you'll find it easy.  I think it's hard, I'd personally reckon 7b/+ but I seem to be in a minority there.

He also wrote this on his blog:

Day 364-  Closure
25 April 2010, 2:56 pm

Days of rain- 48

Dry days- 65

I'm on nights at the moment, but last night wasn't too busy.  Today was cold and cloudy with showers coming and going.  I wanted to get out, but it would have to be somewhere exposed, quick drying, and fairly close.  I've had an aim for this year that I haven't dared put into black and white, I mentioned it to BeardyBeast at Kilnsey and he pulled an "are you stupid?" face at me.  But it's been bubbling on the side burner since 26/4/09, and I have never felt comfortable with it hanging over me.  My aim was to gain retribution before a year was out.

With some apprehension I headed North on the M6, and parked up at Newbiggin crags.  I opted for the limestone pavement approach as it's a nice walk across some lovely country but also because I had the option of trying Surfer Rosa or The Fridge low start if things went badly.

I was pretty hot when I arrived at the Best Limestone Wall in Britain, especially as I had 2 mats this time.  I warmed up a bit on some of the nice easy walls around here, then turned to my objective.  New Rose.  A problem with a history, a Gaskins Classic.  It's claimed at least 2 A2s, the other allegedly being Mr Vickers', or so Weak Sam told me once.

Last time I was here I didn't even dare pull on the right hand pocket.  When I snapped the A2 I held this 2 finger half pad pocket as a full crimp, thumb pinching a crozzle.  I didn't dare do that today, so I ended up doing a weird open handed thingy.  2 fingers in the pocket, but not crimping, thumb on a crozzle lower down.  It felt infinitely less tweaky, but also less secure (as you'll see in the video).  After a lot of faff and puffing and panting I finally pulled on and took my left hand off.

Nothing happened- no snap, no pain- nothing.  Hmmm, I thought. After several more test runs I had the left hand crimp, it felt good as it was pretty cold today.  I dropped off and tried to get some psyche.

With the HV20 running, I tried again- pull on, left hand to crimp, left foot up- suck in the swing- and go!!  Where I'd been slapping before, today I kinda reached to the break, and there I was.  I matched up and looked to the upper wall.  The superdirect version uses a really painful left hand pocket to step high for the break.  This was very painful, and I stepped back down and dropped off.  Fuck.

The next go my right hand blew from the pocket sending me down to batter my right knee on the boulders below the problem.  This made me rather angry, so I gathered myself for a proper attempt.  This time I was a little less static getting the break, but then managed to wobble to the top by moving a foot to the right (this is the method Greg used in his old video if I recall correctly).  And that was that.  I think that the Font 7b the problem now gets is about right, but I have to say it's one of the best walls around.  Awesome.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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#23 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 12, 2019, 02:08:24 pm
Just on my way back from Woodwell. All good there... bone dry. Fill yer boots. Plenty of straight up 7’s on the walls left of Not Bad Dave etc... that don’t get too much action and I’d think we’re right up your crimpy non-tall street.

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#24 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 02:35:52 am
Thanks for the quote Robin.  I really enjoyed watching that: Nik, Amber and I had some really good times together that I’ll always cherish. 

My (quite arsey) regrading was a (quite arsey) response to Greg and his recurrent downgrading of problems I’d done (New Rose, Umbongo, No Country for old men, Lollygagger, Crushinator, Etc etc etc).  It was also in response to Greg’s comment
Quote
Presumably you put these videos up for beta use by others(?) but then you often climb things in an inaccurate fashion. What's the point? Go and climb things however you like, but putting videos up which encourage others to also climb them incorrectly does no one any favours.

I never understood this, as I always assumed that climbing a line was legitimate as long as you climbed the line. Adding in rules etc later just felt like an eliminate and detracted from the problem.

Greg, whatever disagreements we may have had I forgo. We all just climb stuff, and I hope it’s all about the enjoyment. I’ve certainly loved doing some of your problems, and I hope (if you ever go to dank Lancs quarries) it’ll be reciprocated.  Next time we meet I’ll buy you a pint.

As to the original question:
Warton is great.  As Nik says it can need some nav, but it’s fine really. Really great venue with top notch problems of all grades.
Trowbarrow has some classics. Shallow Grave is good, as are the harder things on the Shelterstone.
I really like Farleton. Nice views, nice feel, nice problems.  Don’t expect Stanage or you’ll be Bitter like JB.
Woodwell was always great, but I’ve not been since the rockfall. I still expect a Woodwell/Woodwell o’ert/Trowbarrow visit to be worthwhile.
Hyning, Cringlebarrow, Dalton, Hutton Roof etc are worth a visit if you have done most of the other stuff. Don’t bother otherwise.
There’s loads to go at and you’ll have great time. I fondly look back on the bouldering and cafe visits with Nik as some of the best times I’ve had.

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#25 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 07:27:37 am
I also look back fondly. The climbing, the cakes and the company were all delightful  :)

Will Hunt

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#26 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 04:29:29 pm
We're off to a flying start here. I flashed The Coil so I expect that to tumble through the grades, settling to around the Font 3, maybe soft Font 3+.
I'm sure that I must have broken a rule. Start at the base of the crack on flakey holds, reach up and over and take the top of the crack as a nice gaston finger lock with the LH, take a little crozzle out right with the RH, sort feet and pop for slopey break. I topped out using the same jugs that you use to top out the 6C+ to the right.
How wrong did I get it?

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#27 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 08:44:30 pm
Sounds legit! ‘The Wrath of Khan’ (7B) goes up the crozzles on the wall to the right - it’s good too.

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#28 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 08:59:17 pm
No further news... did New Rose present a sterner challenge?

Will Hunt

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#29 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 09:19:59 pm
Very much so. Definitely more than a grade's difference between that and The Coil. Felt worth the 7B+. You've really got to crimp the shit out of the crozzle. I tickled the high left hand hold a couple of times but never really got the bit that is a hold.

Very much enjoyed the afternoon there. Can't understand why people don't like it. Some of trad looks nice as well.

Did have a go at Wrath of Khan and touched the break but the crimps were getting a bit soapy. Felt closest getting the top crozzle with the right and then getting a shit crimp to the left. Think that'd be fine (and much easier than New Rose) on a cold day.

Worth noting for anyone reading this in the future that New Rose isn't really an easy one to pad with one person's worth of pads. The walk in is fine. A pleasant 20 mins.

tomtom

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#30 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 09:30:54 pm
Glad you liked it. I was the other way around. Never got close on the coil but did new Rose in 3 sessions... a good few years back (post hold breakage). Once you latch that lh it’s all good. Seem to remember a very specific way of holding the Crozzle with RH that worked really well...

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#31 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 09:38:21 pm
I even took a picture of how I held it. July 2013...

https://1drv.ms/i/s!AhKYMIYk2hJ9lflqEEjQh9wesXdz2A

Will Hunt

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#32 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 09:57:11 pm
Ooooo. Three fingers in play! Nice! I was boning two fingers into it with thumb wrapped over. James Malloch joined me and I think he put two fingers in and pinched crozzle with his thumb and liked that.

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#33 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 09:58:36 pm

Very much enjoyed the afternoon there. Can't understand why people don't like it. Some of trad looks nice as well.


Glad you had a good one, always slightly hesitant to recommend places I’ve only been once years ago, but I had a good day out too.

FWIW I remember doing Rose in a few goes and having a total nightmare in Coil.

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#34 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 13, 2019, 11:47:45 pm

Very much enjoyed the afternoon there. Can't understand why people don't like it. Some of trad looks nice as well.


Glad you had a good one, always slightly hesitant to recommend places I’ve only been once years ago, but I had a good day out too.

FWIW I remember doing Rose in a few goes and having a total nightmare in Coil.

Both you and Andy iirc.

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#35 Re: Silverdale - where to start?
July 14, 2019, 10:54:41 pm
Yep, I think I did NR on my 3rd go but then really struggled on The Coil - when I did eventually begin to suss it out and got up into a position to go for the break my chalkbag string snagged on a tiny down pointing spike, rendering me completely immobile. Nothing would dislodge it and I had to jump off.

 

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