Confusingly, New Rose got (unofficially) renamed New(er) Rose after it was re-climbed following the hold breakage. It’s now gone back to being New Rose, which is good because New(er) Rose is a shit name for a classic problem. There’s a discussion about the grade here: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=7318.50
Ridiculous to rename routes/boulder problems because a hold breaks.
Yeah, but you'll path a reachy fingery 7B wall because it's your style.
Well, GCW has already knocked it down to 6A+ and I'll not be outdone. Those 6C bets are looking like pretty long odds now.
As I'm sure you'll know, it was always 7c- but then Greg saw I managed to keep my low foot on, and he (and others) have managed it the same way. I may be lanky but the same sequence has been done by a few others. Greg seems to think 7a+/b.Basically I reckon if you can pull really hard on that foul pocket, you'll find it easy. I think it's hard, I'd personally reckon 7b/+ but I seem to be in a minority there.
Day 364- Closure25 April 2010, 2:56 pmDays of rain- 48Dry days- 65I'm on nights at the moment, but last night wasn't too busy. Today was cold and cloudy with showers coming and going. I wanted to get out, but it would have to be somewhere exposed, quick drying, and fairly close. I've had an aim for this year that I haven't dared put into black and white, I mentioned it to BeardyBeast at Kilnsey and he pulled an "are you stupid?" face at me. But it's been bubbling on the side burner since 26/4/09, and I have never felt comfortable with it hanging over me. My aim was to gain retribution before a year was out.With some apprehension I headed North on the M6, and parked up at Newbiggin crags. I opted for the limestone pavement approach as it's a nice walk across some lovely country but also because I had the option of trying Surfer Rosa or The Fridge low start if things went badly.I was pretty hot when I arrived at the Best Limestone Wall in Britain, especially as I had 2 mats this time. I warmed up a bit on some of the nice easy walls around here, then turned to my objective. New Rose. A problem with a history, a Gaskins Classic. It's claimed at least 2 A2s, the other allegedly being Mr Vickers', or so Weak Sam told me once.Last time I was here I didn't even dare pull on the right hand pocket. When I snapped the A2 I held this 2 finger half pad pocket as a full crimp, thumb pinching a crozzle. I didn't dare do that today, so I ended up doing a weird open handed thingy. 2 fingers in the pocket, but not crimping, thumb on a crozzle lower down. It felt infinitely less tweaky, but also less secure (as you'll see in the video). After a lot of faff and puffing and panting I finally pulled on and took my left hand off.Nothing happened- no snap, no pain- nothing. Hmmm, I thought. After several more test runs I had the left hand crimp, it felt good as it was pretty cold today. I dropped off and tried to get some psyche.With the HV20 running, I tried again- pull on, left hand to crimp, left foot up- suck in the swing- and go!! Where I'd been slapping before, today I kinda reached to the break, and there I was. I matched up and looked to the upper wall. The superdirect version uses a really painful left hand pocket to step high for the break. This was very painful, and I stepped back down and dropped off. Fuck.The next go my right hand blew from the pocket sending me down to batter my right knee on the boulders below the problem. This made me rather angry, so I gathered myself for a proper attempt. This time I was a little less static getting the break, but then managed to wobble to the top by moving a foot to the right (this is the method Greg used in his old video if I recall correctly). And that was that. I think that the Font 7b the problem now gets is about right, but I have to say it's one of the best walls around. Awesome.Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
Presumably you put these videos up for beta use by others(?) but then you often climb things in an inaccurate fashion. What's the point? Go and climb things however you like, but putting videos up which encourage others to also climb them incorrectly does no one any favours.