[Oldmanmatt]

Here we see the main protagonist of my life story, in flight and about to ground out (as Bob S (on belay) concusses himself just below the first bolt). This was the result of slipping as I reached to clip the lower-off and snapping the thread belay below and popping the bolt below that.
It’s Dancing ledge at Swanage, but I no longer posses the pre-1995 guide book and these routes were de-bolted shortly after this incident.
Can anyone tell me, was it “Volx with friction” or “For your arms only” (I think the latter, but I climbed both, so no idea now), what grade were they etc?


And anyone else have similar memories of routes long gone?

[Fiend]

I climbed a couple of routes at the Crag Y quarry in Leicestershire and apparently it got filled in #coolstorybro

[cheque]

And anyone else have similar memories of routes long gone?

The first time I climbed in North Pembroke my mate led a cool route called Rosary and I did a bold Slabby arete thing called Aries (both easy but we found them tough, the more things change etc.) a beautiful day and it was amazing driving up there past jigsaw-like harbour views. I was propping a camera up and filming everything we did at the time and I have footage of both routes but I wouldn’t forget that day anyway.

In the big winter storms a few years ago the whole zawn that contained Rosary collapsed. I probably would never have gone back and done it again but it’s weird when you think that something so massive and permanent-seeming is just gone.

[tubbs]

> Can anyone tell me, was it “Volx with friction” or “For your arms only” (I think the latter, but I climbed both, so no idea now), what grade were they etc?

Most likely Volx With Friction, as For Your Arms Only (next to it) was fully (sportingly) bolted by Mike Robertson. Both were debolted as they were loose as f**k.

> And anyone else have similar memories of routes long gone?

Yes - my first ever new route was through the roof on the lower ledge - it collapsed just 3 months after I led it.

[teestub]

I love that the entire crag seems to be held up with a few blocks wedged under the roof 

[Oldmanmatt]

I love that the entire crag seems to be held up with a few blocks wedged under the roof 

Cheers Tubbs, don’t suppose you remember the grades do you?
I thought the debolting was Bat roosting related, but it was pretty friable... 😱
Teestub, they were awesome and scary and I recall the first bolts being some alarmingly great distance from the ground. Strenuous and steep, real monkey stuff. Found a different angle shot, this time with Alien Rock’s very own Mr Welch doing the dirty. He didn’t fall off it though, so only half hearted effort...



ps:
Had no fucking idea what a clipstick or pad was then.

[spidermonkey09]

ps:
Had no fucking idea what a clipstick or pad was then.

Or belaying!  Edit: thought there was a bolt clipped but perhaps not from your post!

[Oldmanmatt]

Nope, I believe the first bolt is directly above Reuben’s head; he may even be looking down to grab the rope for the clip.

[ben]

Are there meant to be pictures embedded in this thread?  OR maybe it's just me that can't see them 

[tubbs]

From memory...

For Your Arms Only (Mike Robertson)- E2 5c in old money - 6a+/6b
Volx With Friction (Gareth Jefferies, I think)- E1 5b - 6a+

Pretty sure they felt harder though. I can check the old guide later, if I remember.

The slope above these was deemed too dangerous for people to be stood underneath, never mind the fact that holds kept falling off. There are still a lot of routes immediately to the right that are climbed every weekend, and are very close to the bat cave, so I guess bats weren't the reason.