[Fiend]

I am....although it would be more fun to do with a nervous HS up for an adventure...

[Murph]

Sorry cheque I completely went off the idea of climbing after a horrible experience at Stoney that involved vertical gardening. It was the week I gave up power club if I remember. You are doing it anyway right? I’ve been persuaded to do it this Saturday by my white horses partner. Terrified about it tbh.

[measles23]

I quite like the idea of going down the powerlifting route

Fuck yeah!
Come down the gym and play with metal

But I know nothing...

Never a truer


Coops: calling out the DL thread as TL;DR is sacrilege - it is a place of holy knowledge..

Otherwise for back-safe DL I would have said:

1. Progressions/ancillary exercises pretty useless as you’re trying to find a highly specific groove - really best to stick to medium weight DL (not too light as you can compensate for poor form).
2. Sumo
3. In a good gym like ours you can ask others to watch and comment but obv the quality of knowledge may vary - otherwise post videos here so the likes of nibs and I can gob off about form (I actually did stop hyperextending after nibs noticed me doing it on vid).
4. Sumo
5. I totally get the trying to think about too many variables; however this can be overcome by just focusing on one at a time until it each one feels natural..
6. Sumo
7. Invest in a good quality belt - some debate this, and spew about letting your core be your belt, but it’s the DL equivalent of a good pad and allows you to relax about the risk and focus on form. I have a Zulu Detonator and it’s fuckin bo - my back loves me for it.
8. Did I say Sumo? Sumo is much kinder on the back, though it is very technical - the majority of lighter powerlifters go sumo..

Oh and ffs please convert back to metric - we won’t have lbs in our gyms until after brexit 

[Coops_13]

Haha cheers both, some good tips - will give a go. Gotta keep it in pounds in my diary so I can keep tracking I'm afraid - currently working on converting this country to a 24hr clock, the metric system will be next...

[cheque]

Sorry cheque I completely went off the idea of climbing after a horrible experience at Stoney that involved vertical gardening. It was the week I gave up power club if I remember. You are doing it anyway right? I’ve been persuaded to do it this Saturday by my white horses partner. Terrified about it tbh.

  I found myself soloing at Stoney the other day. What a horrifying place. Pennine lime is so disconcerting in the lower grades. I’ve heard the term “virtually a clip-up” used for the Chee Tor Girdle though so it must be safer than whatever you were all on at Stoney. Make sure you write up your experience on here!

I will be doing it anyway for sure- with Fiend by the looks of it (are you cool with sharing the lead Fiend?). I’m just getting twitchy about time with ticking all the remaining routes off my list- the low grade nature of the routes I’m on is limiting my partner choices and there’s only so much calendar-aligning you can do with the same people.

[abarro81]

Continuing to try and strengthen knees for this and am trying to work on form for deadlifts - just scared of doing my back... Any recommendations of a good DL instruction video to help with form (like progressions rather than remember to do 173 different things while you lift)? Thanks (and I know there's a DL thread but it's rather long...)

Fuckin' deadlifting. That's all I have to say on the matter.

[Nibile]

https://www.t-nation.com/training/deconstructing-the-deadlift

Best article ever of the matter, from a professional coach.
The fact that this post comes right after Barrow's one is accidental. I was searching the Net, otherwise my post would have been first.
Unfortunately I still haven't memorized the URL of the article, despite linking it dozen of times.
And it's not even a complex URL...

[reeve]

Continuing to try and strengthen knees for this and am trying to work on form for deadlifts - just scared of doing my back... Any recommendations of a good DL instruction video to help with form (like progressions rather than remember to do 173 different things while you lift)? Thanks (and I know there's a DL thread but it's rather long...)

Fuckin' deadlifting. That's all I have to say on the matter.

Climbing 9a counts for nothing if you haven't deadlifted double your bodyweight

[abarro81]

www.fuckindeadlifting.com

[Will Hunt]

Tuesday - Langcliffe. We did a 6a+ on the Skyline Buttress and were nearly completely devoured by midges. On the way down we detected a slight breeze in the quarry so called in to do the very long 40 odd metre long Silver Buttons - a mighty 6a+.
Weird quarried wall. Holds everywhere, none of them positive. Dusty rock. Not obvious which is the easiest line. Bolts feel spaced with stuff to hit on the way down.
Those are my excuses. I got quite high then ended up maybe a bit too far off to the right. Made a gripping traverse to get back to the bolt, which was a rusty old piece of crap. Got a draw in it but it was an off-balance position and I ended up grabbing the draw to get it clipped. First time in about 10 years that I've failed on a 6a+. Joy.

We went home.

[reeve]

Tuesday - Langcliffe. We did a 6a+ on the Skyline Buttress and were nearly completely devoured by midges. On the way down we detected a slight breeze in the quarry so called in to do the very long 40 odd metre long Silver Buttons - a mighty 6a+.
Weird quarried wall. Holds everywhere, none of them positive. Dusty rock. Not obvious which is the easiest line. Bolts feel spaced with stuff to hit on the way down.
Those are my excuses. I got quite high then ended up maybe a bit too far off to the right. Made a gripping traverse to get back to the bolt, which was a rusty old piece of crap. Got a draw in it but it was an off-balance position and I ended up grabbing the draw to get it clipped. First time in about 10 years that I've failed on a 6a+. Joy.

We went home.

Failing on a 6a+ doesn't matter, if you've deadlifted double your bodyweight.

[andy_e]

Will deadlifts 2xBW when he picks up a packet of crisps.

[Nibile]

www.fuckindeadlifting.com

www.fuckingkneebars.com

This is Power Club. It's just not your cup of tea Alex.

[abarro81]

Touche

[Nibile]

 

[tommytwotone]

On the deadlift-related theme.

Goal - tick off the one remaining 7a I need to make 3 for the year.

M: Gym on lunch. 500m row to warm up, then 5 sets x 5 reps of bodyweight (well just over, 70kg) deadlift, 1 min rest between sets, then 5 sets x 10 reps of 24kg kettlebell goblet squats, 1 min rest between sets, then 5 sets x 10 reps of laid-down leg raises, 1 min rest between sets. Surprisingly effectively way to beat yourself up on a lunch break.

T - F: oh my god the DOMS
S: nowt
S: nowt

[Murph]

I’m just getting twitchy about time with ticking all the remaining routes off my list- the low grade nature of the routes I’m on is limiting my partner choices and there’s only so much calendar-aligning you can do with the same people.

Hi mike, sorry for perhaps over promising on being able to get out for a climb. I really don’t get much time outside of childcare-at-crag sessions and I’m pretty terrified of any sort of real climbing so am reluctant to actually follow through in case I let people down. I would love to climb with you but would hate to get you to a crag and then have one of my meltdowns.

My mate had to come round last week (without even phoning first who does that?) and force me out of solitude/ make me commit to joining him this Saturday. My mrs has a full weekend of childcare as a result too. So it’s a really big deal with lots of pressure and I am bricking it.

All that said, if you are ever around eastern grit on a Friday and don’t mind 3 year olds then give me a call you’ve got my number. I would love to help with your sub hvs challenge and have no problem with that grade range, just not sure about juggling domestics.

[JCorbot]

Continuing to try and strengthen knees for this and am trying to work on form for deadlifts - just scared of doing my back... Any recommendations of a good DL instruction video to help with form (like progressions rather than remember to do 173 different things while you lift)? Thanks (and I know there's a DL thread but it's rather long...)

Fuckin' deadlifting. That's all I have to say on the matter.

I’ve got into working my thighs, buttocks and calves recently. Focusing on low reps high weight. I’ve found it really helps on tension moves. Particularly the buttock work.

[Coops_13]

https://www.t-nation.com/training/deconstructing-the-deadlift

That's great, cheers Nibs. Form was definitely improved last night, working with some of Murph and Measles' tips. Will have a read

[Nibile]

My pleasure beast. You'll gain one grade just by reading it!
 
On a side note, I'll pass here an advice that the sports phisician that did my body composition scan gave me: the most important thing is to always keep or build muscle mass.
This might well be tailored on a 47 years old rusty athlete, but I suspect it was not.

[petejh]

www.fuckindeadlifting.com

Lots of powerlifters wear knee supports too.

[tomtom]

My pleasure beast. You'll gain one grade just by reading it!
 
On a side note, I'll pass here an advice that the sports phisician that did my body composition scan gave me: the most important thing is to always keep or build muscle mass.
This might well be tailored on a 47 years old rusty athlete, but I suspect it was not.

Interesting and related to recent studies showing that doing weights had the most benefit health wise to older people...

I’ve always pondered that bouldering is close to doing doing weights in a very unstructured way.

[tommytwotone]

My pleasure beast. You'll gain one grade just by reading it!
 

The Rip's videos on YouTube are extremely good for tips on form / not crocking yourself. I started / got into / am vaguely OK at deadlift almost purely down to his stuff.

[tommytwotone]

This is definitely not instructional but worth a watch on the topic:

[Goat]

Injury combat begins….
On both Saturday and Sunday morning, I noticed stiffness in my right ring finger. So, I’ll be staying off my board projects until I’ve had two days without aching fingers in the morning.

Mon-           Rest. Still ache after pull-ups on Sat, but only mild stiffness in my finger after waking up.
Tues-          There's no serious stiffness in my fingers after waking up. So, I go for a board session on my “endurance” circuit (relatively tame on the fingers). After 40 mins I leave to open a door, but a sharp pain runs through my right ring finger. I’m pretty sure I have a very minor pulley tear/strain.
20 minutes of sulking/ core training. Afterwards, I massage the finger and can feel nothing at all. So, I practice a one-arm-hang and one-arm-pull-ups on each arm, the finger is mildly stiff after this for a short time. I end the session there. I’m gonna back off and active right-finger recovery training mode.

Wed-    Taking it easy with low-intensity training. Drag pull-ups on the 30-degree sloper. I also cautiously practice one-arm-hangs on the sloper. (40-minute session)
After doing this I set a circuit designed to place minimal stress on my right-hand pulleys. I do this by making sure that the best way to hold the holds with my right hand is either with a drag or a three finger drag. I’m relatively content with the problem as there are certainly right-hand-drag sections which are difficult enough to keep me entertained.

Thurs- Board session on the new right-hand recovery circuit. (1 hour 40 mins)
Steady warm up- Swinging on jugs, pullups on the 30-degree sloper and very easy moves on problems.
Middle- I get on the circuit from Wed. There are 2 hard sections involving intense three-finger-drags on the right-hand, it’s super powerful and great fun. My pulley doesn’t give me any pain. By the time I’m finished my right-ring finger flexor feels well and truly worked.
End- Core session followed by one-armer practice.

Fri-              Rest.   Played some tennis.
Sat-             Board session 2:15 hours.
No full crimping and no super hard crimping on the right hand. Standard warmup and ending. Ring finger felt fine.

Sunday-   40 mins. Did one arm sloper hang practice, also did pullups on the 30-degree sloper.

The issue with my right hand has forced me to look at the 5 projects which I set myself (where I had the intention of doing all 5 in one session by the end of summer.) I realised that these projects are putting a lot of stress on my right pulleys, so I’ve altered one of them to be more intense on my left hand, instead of my right.
Although my fingers feel good again, I’m going avoid the board projects next week, and instead get on some stuff outside…