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How to choose climbing shoes guide (Read 923 times)

tkmalibu

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How to choose climbing shoes guide
June 13, 2019, 07:09:55 pm




I found these useful guides at http://athleteaudit.com/best-climbing-shoes / http://athleteaudit.com/how-to-size-the-most-popular-climbing-shoes and thought it might help some folks here. For the most part, the sizing guide is accurate for the shoes I've owned in the past, although overall it seems to cater mostly to the US market

SA Chris

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#1 Re: How to choose climbing shoes guide
June 13, 2019, 10:42:22 pm
The graph with the shoes is pretty cool.

sdm

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#2 Re: How to choose climbing shoes guide
June 14, 2019, 08:10:38 am
Nice chart but not entirely accurate on fit. The Instinct VS fv last is much higher volume than the Drago fz last which is quite narrow for a Scarpa. Not sure what the Drago is doing all the way down at the bottom.

teestub

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#3 Re: How to choose climbing shoes guide
June 14, 2019, 08:14:51 am
I think maybe the graph would be more useful if stiffness and downturnedness were the axes and volume was just an annotation on each model.

cheque

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#4 Re: How to choose climbing shoes guide
June 14, 2019, 10:20:31 am
I think maybe the graph would be more useful if stiffness and downturnedness were the axes and volume was just an annotation on each model.

 :agree:

BuzyG

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#5 Re: How to choose climbing shoes guide
June 14, 2019, 01:25:23 pm
Great little guide or the novice like me. :thumbsup:

Will Hunt

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#6 Re: How to choose climbing shoes guide
June 14, 2019, 01:50:30 pm
This makes me think. Its totally standard, if you go into any decent outdoor shop, to get a personalised boot fitting service if you're buying a walking boot.

In George Fisher in Keswick the lady measured my foot, asked me how much I wanted to pay and what I'd be using the shoes for (mooching/winter walking etc) and then, like Olivander's wand shop, she went to the shelves and picked out (from hundreds of models and sizes) the perfect boot. I tried a few others on to show willing but came back to the original choice.

Why do we not demand a similar standard of service? We're paying about the same amount and we get through a pair of rock shoes loads faster than a pair of boots.

Mushin

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#7 Re: How to choose climbing shoes guide
June 14, 2019, 02:10:59 pm
Nice info. These brand specific charts should be in here as well:



La sportiva has a similar chart but i dont have time to look for it now.

cheque

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#8 Re: How to choose climbing shoes guide
June 14, 2019, 02:30:18 pm
This makes me think. Its totally standard, if you go into any decent outdoor shop, to get a personalised boot fitting service if you're buying a walking boot.

In George Fisher in Keswick the lady measured my foot, asked me how much I wanted to pay and what I'd be using the shoes for (mooching/winter walking etc) and then, like Olivander's wand shop, she went to the shelves and picked out (from hundreds of models and sizes) the perfect boot. I tried a few others on to show willing but came back to the original choice.

Why do we not demand a similar standard of service? We're paying about the same amount and we get through a pair of rock shoes loads faster than a pair of boots.

It’s because we (rightly or wrongly) like to think that we’re at least as knowledgeable as the person working in the shop Will. Have you never been in a gear shop when a less experienced climber’s buying new shoes? They tell the guy or girl “I’m going to Font in two weeks/ looking to start climbing outside/ need to step up from the torn remnants of the Sportiva Tarantulas the wall sold me 6 weeks ago” and, apart from the foot-measuring bit, the process you describe happening at the hiking boot shop proceeds.

When you were in George Fisher there was probably some hillwalking wad lurking about thinking “God, look at this punter getting the full service from this bird who’s only done 170 Munros”  ;)

TobyD

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#9 Re: How to choose climbing shoes guide
June 14, 2019, 11:54:26 pm
Climbing shoes are inherently more of a subjective decision than walking boots or running shoes,  it depends on whether you prioritise sensitivity or  support,  how strong your feet are,  how flexible your ankles are... and a list of other factors that a shop assistant cannot hope to assess.  I sold climbing shoes for several years, beyond basic tight fit, its mostly a personal choice imho. On the other hand I've had a video gait analysis for running shoes, got recommended 2 choices, which both felt instantly better than anything else and I've stuck with same or similar for years. I don't think you can achieve that with climbing shoes realistically. 

moose

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Agree.  Another complication when choosing / assessing the characteristics of rock shoes, at least for me, is my willingness to vary the size I buy to compensate for a model being high / low volume (especially with lace-ups - as I figure I can adjust the lacing). 

I'll be off climbing today with a pair of Dragons and a pair of Geniuses, supposedly very low and high volume respectively but my perception of their fit is the complete opposite as the Dragons are fractionally bigger relative to my true foot size (i.e. ignoring each brands own interpretation of the sizing scale) - as they were purchased on a day when my patience for pain had worn thin (my previous pair of Dragons were a half size smaller and indeed felt very low volume!).   

You don't really get that with other footwear.  In my experience people nearly always stick to their "street shoe" size for say, walking boots, and if a model feels loose / tight will dismiss it as unsuited to their feet, and move on to a different model, rather than try the "wrong" size.

To be honest whilst I love a good infographic these seem a little redundant, as anyone who used one as the sole (sorry) basis of a shoe purchase is deluded.

tomtom

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Can we have them re-drawn in a SkySports heatmap style please? 😃

moose

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I was thinking something like this would be more appropriate:


tomtom

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Superb. The real value of the graphs though are for shoe makers to spot gaps in the market - and to see what names they can give to their latest creation.

habrich

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La sportiva has a similar chart but i dont have time to look for it now.

They have buried them deep in their website ... used to be more prominent. Scroll down here https://www.sportiva.com/sizing-technology/