I think maybe the graph would be more useful if stiffness and downturnedness were the axes and volume was just an annotation on each model.
This makes me think. Its totally standard, if you go into any decent outdoor shop, to get a personalised boot fitting service if you're buying a walking boot.In George Fisher in Keswick the lady measured my foot, asked me how much I wanted to pay and what I'd be using the shoes for (mooching/winter walking etc) and then, like Olivander's wand shop, she went to the shelves and picked out (from hundreds of models and sizes) the perfect boot. I tried a few others on to show willing but came back to the original choice.Why do we not demand a similar standard of service? We're paying about the same amount and we get through a pair of rock shoes loads faster than a pair of boots.
La sportiva has a similar chart but i dont have time to look for it now.
Climbing shoes are inherently more of a subjective decision than walking boots or running shoes, it depends on whether you prioritise sensitivity or support, how strong your feet are, how flexible your ankles are... and a list of other factors that a shop assistant cannot hope to assess. I sold climbing shoes for several years, beyond basic tight fit, its mostly a personal choice imho. On the other hand I've had a video gait analysis for running shoes, got recommended 2 choices, which both felt instantly better than anything else and I've stuck with same or similar for years. I don't think you can achieve that with climbing shoes realistically.
Agree. Another complication when choosing / assessing the characteristics of rock shoes, at least for me, is my willingness to vary the size I buy to compensate for a model being high / low volume (especially with lace-ups - as I figure I can adjust the lacing). ...You don't really get that with other footwear. In my experience people nearly always stick to their "street shoe" size for say, walking boots, and if a model feels loose / tight will dismiss it as unsuited to their feet, and move on to a different model, rather than try the "wrong" size.
If the market for shoes is growing and growing it doesn't seem unreasonable for it to follow the same path as walking boots. Reps coming round to the shops and showing the staff the ranges and explaining them to them. Sending staff away on fitting courses. I had a summer job at ultimate outdoors and remember they had a scheme where you could return a pair of walking boots to the shop within about a month of purchase (provided they were still in good, nearly new condition) if you'd found that the weren't really for you. That would be a great way to be able to trial shoes.
Any particular shops you’d recommend Drew?
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