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[Torquay][2 new problems] (Read 2757 times)

EdGowSmith

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[Torquay][2 new problems]
May 24, 2019, 08:16:56 pm
Two new problems on a large boulder I found near Walls Hill.

Approach:
Park at the cricket club at the end of Walls Hill Road, then follow the drive down the hill, joining the public footpath going off right after the bend. Then very shortly (5/10 metres after joining the public footpath) take a small path rightwards zigzagging down the hill, arriving at drop-off into a basin on the right. Scramble down into the basin (fly-tipping spot), and following the vague path down to the cove where the boulder lies (some bushwacking required and a final steep descent with scree on your right).

The problems are slightly tidal with Earthly Powers probably only being affected by big tides and Roly Poly Roof being a little more affected.
There are a few easier problems between the ones in the video. The rock is a little suspect to the left of Roly Poly Roof but it may yield something...
There's a hard one-move project to the left of Earthly Powers, starting off double undercuts.


Kingy

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#1 Re: [Torquay][2 new problems]
May 25, 2019, 08:43:20 am
Nice work Ed. Good to have some new bouldering to go at down there. I will check it out soon. The rock looks very much like at the base of Empire Wall

BuzyG

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#2 Re: [Torquay][2 new problems]
May 25, 2019, 11:31:06 am
 That looks like fun. :)

Danny

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#3 Re: [Torquay][2 new problems]
May 25, 2019, 11:59:04 am
The chossy but good category by the looks of it!

Kingy

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#4 Re: [Torquay][2 new problems]
June 13, 2019, 10:50:25 am
I managed to repeat Earthly Powers yesterday (2nd ascent?), great problem and props to Ed for developing this boulder. I thought it was perhaps more Font 7C rather than 7B+ but more repeats will hopefully confirm. Here is a video - excuse the small size, I started filming on my phone in the vertical orientation but guess next time landscape mode is best! Some friable rock crumbled under my fingers on 2 holds but this was only around the sides of the holds, the bits you pull on are unchanged! I'm sure the rock will consolidate in time. Roly Poly Roof was wet but looked good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TUyVUMqajA&feature=youtu.be

I did a cool one mover to the left of Earthly Powers which I named 'Intergalactic Power' Font 7B+, the second problem in the vid. This uses the LH spiky crimp of EP for your RH instead and a poor wide pinch. I tried to make it totally independent of EP but couldn't work out a viable place to pull on - where I started seemed like an obvious option. There will be a meaty low start to Intergalactic Power in the Font 8A or above range - I reckon starting as for EP could be a good and then moving out left possibly into my stand start, check it out!

EdGowSmith

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#5 Re: [Torquay][2 new problems]
June 19, 2019, 11:59:38 am
Nice one Ted!
Thanks for going and repeating it.
I was a little worried about the holds, but the ones you and I used seem like they might hold up...
Your new thing looks good, I thought there must've been something there.

Kingy

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#6 Re: [Torquay][2 new problems]
June 19, 2019, 12:19:50 pm
Yes the holds are a little fragile but basically sound. I was a bit disappointed there wasn't a totally independent problem to the right of Earthly Powers but my 'left hand finish' seems the best way to go. Somebody needs to get the sit bagged!

 

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