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Morzine / Les Gets bouldering and sport climbing (Read 1406 times)

shark

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Just researching this area for a potential family trip in August.

There is an old ukb thread here here and Foron looks great for sport but not got much info on bouldering so any info on locations, grade and quality appreciated.

Also if anyone has got guidebooks I can borrow particularly the ďGiffe, Risse and ForonĒ one that would be ace  :2thumbsup:

petejh

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I've just returned from there, was staying in a mate's chalet above Verchaix.

Les Tines is decent enough, bit sandbaggy. The ukc logbook highlights the decent routes. The 6c 'Dolby' is v.tough, old school and runout but good.

Anthon is very convenient - 10 seconds from the road - but all routes I did were polished horrorshows. Whatever you do don't try the 7a+ up the crack on sector turbostyle.. actually yes do it it's reeeeally good....

Jourdy is good. Steep hike up to it. Nice multi-pitches and some decent single pitches.

If you can hook-up with someone competent then highly recommend going to Les Vaurdes - one of the big cliffs above the Arve valley. It's mental. Look it up. La Costa is a massive sandbag although I was leading everything with a newbie to climbing - felt like a meaty 250 metres E3 6a. You defo want cams. The 250m 6b I did on there last year felt 2 or 3 grades easier than La Costa. Tip - you can get up the 4x4 track in a normal hire car if you fill the ditch/bump with offcuts from a firewood pile.

We hiked up to look at Paroi Antern - amazing huge cliff in a very beautiful setting with a nice refuge at its base. Very inspired to try something on this on a return trip.

Eats - La Reposette is very good and serves late.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2019, 10:54:38 pm by petejh »

shark

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Thanks Pete. Unfortunately I will struggle to persuade the boys to do sport let alone trad and multi pitch. Did you check out any established bouldering or spot potential

Yossarian

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If you can hook-up with someone competent then highly recommend going to Les Vaurdes - one of the big cliffs above the Arve valley. It's mental. Look it up. La Costa is a massive sandbag although I was leading everything with a newbie to climbing - felt like a meaty 250 metres E3 6a. You defo want cams. The 250m 6b I did on there last year felt 2 or 3 grades easier than La Costa. Tip - you can get up the 4x4 track in a normal hire car if you fill the ditch/bump with offcuts from a firewood pile.

I did La Costa in the late 90s, and it still gives me shivers. Try to avoid doing it in full July sun...

petejh

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I don't usually get gripped on abseils but I did there the first time I dropped over the lip!


Shark - no first-hand info on bouldering sorry. But there looks to be some excellent bouldering at Medonnet.

Also - for sport check out Bionassy. We didn't make it there but I've been told its excellent.

T_B

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Medonnet is worth a visit. Itís a pretty spot. Itís very in the trees and felt humid when I went there in the summer. Some problems are a bit high so youíd appreciate a spot.

shark

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Cool. About an hourís drive from a Morzine so worth a visit. Was hoping for stuff closer

SA Chris

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I actually think there is some potential on the road from Morzine to the Prodains cable car. On the left the hillside is a great jumble / scree with some large looking boulders, both on the hillside, and on the valley floor on the left side of the road. There is some documented bouldering on the Joux Plaine pass, but never checked it out.

shark

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Ah nice one. Ben likes putting up new stuff

alpinebisou

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There's allegedly a bouldering venue at Saint Jeoire. Haven't been so can't vouch for quality.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/saint.jeoire.escalade/photos/?tab=album&album_id=151483801640715
https://climbingaway.fr/fr/site-escalade/les-blocs-de-bellevaux

Foron is probably your best bet for sport. It is good.

AJM

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Just researching this area for a potential family trip in August.

Am definitely there for a bit in August, ditto family holiday, but could try to meet up if you want to do something roped and canít persuade anyone else!

There 7-13 or something like that (Wed to Tues, I think). You can tell Iím not in charge of organisation canít you.

shark

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Booked now and will be there 27 July - 10 Aug so we overlap for 3 days.  :2thumbsup:

Ordered the guidebook

IanP

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We're there 14th to 26th, family and sport climbing so will let you know what I find out. Know the area from mountain and road biking trips but this first time climbing.

shark

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Be good to climb again. Whatís Dave Marsh up to?

 

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