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Zippy / Ben Moon trivia challenge! (Read 11299 times)

shark

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Zippy / Ben Moon trivia challenge!
June 12, 2019, 11:06:48 am
Was at Malham yesterday and bumped into Ben and Zips and they’ve got a challenge for UKB.  :boxing:

How many uk sport routes have Font 8A or harder moves on them?

They came up with13 definite and 5 possibles.

Can you name the routes and even add to the list?

I’ll get their list at the end of the week..

SamT

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#1 Re: Zippy / Ben Moon trivia challenge!
June 12, 2019, 11:13:59 am

The Bastard?
Hubble?

shark

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teestub

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#3 Re: Zippy / Ben Moon trivia challenge!
June 12, 2019, 11:21:04 am
Hunger - The Anvil
Mutation?
Meltdown?
Big Bang?
Violent New Breed  :worms:

Teaboy

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#4 Re: Zippy / Ben Moon trivia challenge!
June 12, 2019, 11:37:50 am
Big bang was touted as 7c+ in an old OTE article about the hardest routes.

Rainshadow
Overshadow
Rainman

Ru

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#5 Re: Zippy / Ben Moon trivia challenge!
June 12, 2019, 11:39:23 am
Routes with single moves that are font 8a? I reckon none.

Routes with boulder sections that are 8a? Gets a bit vague as to what counts as a boulder, but:

Hubble, Bastard, Overshadow, Evolution (and Devo etc - these used to be considered 7c+, but opinions seems to be changing), Mutation (for the top crux - only 9a with 2 font 8a sections joined by an 8b with no rest?), Rainshadow depending on who you ask, Rainman, Rooster Crossing (bet that's not on their list), Hooligan, that thing of Polish Dave's that starts to the left and goes into it, things on the Anvil, Tonto at the Hollywood Bowl, Barracuda before the pocket got bigger, maybe Liquid Ambar?, the crux of Transform is probably 8a in new money, maybe the middle section of the Meltdown?, Pump up the Power if it wasn't Pump up the Power, Seans Roof climbed as a route.

There must be loads more, especially if you count longer 10-13 move sections (that are still shorter than many long boulders). I ought to do some work.
« Last Edit: June 12, 2019, 11:47:53 am by Ru »

Doylo

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#6 Re: Zippy / Ben Moon trivia challenge!
June 12, 2019, 11:49:08 am
Big bang was touted as 7c+ in an old OTE article about the hardest routes.



That quote and pics of Moony were with a duff sequence. Think it might be 7c at the top or easier.

Doylo

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#7 Re: Zippy / Ben Moon trivia challenge!
June 12, 2019, 11:50:12 am
Pump up the Jam, pigeons would prob qualify. 2 bolt 8c. 

Doylo

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#8 Re: Zippy / Ben Moon trivia challenge!
June 12, 2019, 11:51:39 am
The crux section of Liquid Ambar is 7C+ probs. Sea of Tranquility is basically a boulder problem and meant to be 8A. Diamond Dogs has a 8A section on it I think.

Doylo

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#9 Re: Zippy / Ben Moon trivia challenge!
June 12, 2019, 11:53:48 am
Also Empire State at the diamond. 8A off the ground to a jug then 8a to top.

Nutty

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Fight the Feeling?

DAVETHOMAS90

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Jehovakill at The Tor.

One of John W's - after I'd had the vision to bolt it 😉 - that Zipps informs me is now considered 8A. Route 8b+.

I think this is a good example; probably 4/5 moves.

Really annoying that this now suffers from the dreaded Raven Tor gop, at the LH end.

r-man

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Hooligan, that thing of Polish Dave's that starts to the left and goes into it

Wild West. I checked with Dawid - it doesn't share any of Hooligan.


Ally Smith

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Alex's links of Keen Roof/Chimes (8c+) & Belly of the Beast/Waddage (9a "Belly's Gonna Get Yer") at the tor.

Multiple things in Parisella's that use the bolted finish, e.g.
- Final Cut (8c)
- A Familiar Atrocity (8c+)
- Bonnie Extension (8c)

GraemeA

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Disappointed. I thought it was going to be questions like:

1. Where did Ben write off his Sirocco?
2. Who lived in the cellar of 84 Hunter House Rd? (one of Zippy's old addresses)
etc

Ally Smith

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Ooops - Zippy is going to be annoyed - we've forgotten his route:

Make it Funky at the tor

Which means the extension, Mega Whore (also 8c) must also have an 8A section.

Also, doesn't Ellis Butler-B's route down at Anstey's have an 8A crux? "Ali Bomaye", 8c

remus

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Seems a bit weird including boulder problem + route linkups (e.g. Belly's gonna get ya, those things in the cave of justice). Seems there's a risk of the list getting bloated with linkups. Perhaps have some criteria that it can't be an extension of a boulder problem? Though that does feel a bit unfair for stuff like Wild West which you could easily look at as a route with a hard start.

Doylo

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Link ups are fine but I wouldn’t include the hybrids.

Ru

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Don't think Make it Funky is 8a. Or Jehovahkill. They might be in modern grades I suppose. We've all done easier ones in Switzerland. Seraphim might be 8a in retrospect.

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Agree with Doyle. I wouldn't include any of the cave ones barring maybe Bonnie Extension which I think i'd include personally, it feels like climbing a route. It is far from over after doing bonnie the next bit is real hard and you have a rope on the whole way. The other two are arbitrary climbing on top of boulder problems.   

mrjonathanr

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Disappointed. I thought it was going to be questions like:

1. Where did Ben write off his Sirocco?
2. Who lived in the cellar of 84 Hunter House Rd? (one of Zippy's old addresses)
etc


Is it Yorik? Not sure about the Scirocco. What about your intimate family tree of Sheffield, surely must be some mind map software to allow for revisions and updating?

DAVETHOMAS90

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Don't think Make it Funky is 8a. Or Jehovahkill. They might be in modern grades I suppose. We've all done easier ones in Switzerland. Seraphim might be 8a in retrospect.

.. or anything else Ru has done?  :-\  ;)

haydn jones

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Don't think Make it Funky is 8a. Or Jehovahkill. They might be in modern grades I suppose. We've all done easier ones in Switzerland. Seraphim might be 8a in retrospect.

I'm calling bull on this not being a font 8A. I spent 8 days on this and never managed to even stick the ear let alone get to the jug, this was in the period when I was doing font 8A in a session and did keen roof and fat lip in 3 sessions.

Definitely 8A boulder and only about 10 moves to the jug from the group which makes it not even that long of a boulder.

teestub

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You must have only been climbing modern grading 8A’s 😂

Doylo

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Ru only deals in old money.

 

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