[Kingy]

Tried this a few days ago. Wondered if anybody knew what hold came off this a few years back? I think it was Malc who pulled an undercut off the crux which has made it a bit harder since the FA. If this is right, where on the crux was this hold?

(I know about the break 2 years ago of one of the higher crimps).

V hard route, well deserves upgrading to 8c!

[Kingy]

For those interested, just found out the undercut which broke used to be on the right after the crux crimps before the move to to the pinch. Apparently its much harder now and it was overlooked for an upgrade in the last guide, no way its 8b+!

[spidermonkey09]

Sure I remember chatting to Palmer about this at the Depot and he was fairly convinced it was 8c.

[tim palmer]

Was it not upgraded in the most recent guidebook?  It will defo be 8c minus the broken crimp and the foothold that lardy ted has dislodged.

[Kingy]

haha, sorry about the foothold destruction. Should lay off the pies! Just done the move off the broken crimp today and its just about OK as a kind of minging pinch. I was able to use it to go to the juggy break with my feet still on the footholds (lank!)

[Kingy]

The foothold that broke is still there just about half the size, the bit that remains. The move still goes with outside LF on this fh.

[Adam Lincoln]

How hards the bloc on this now Ted, 7C+?

[Kingy]

I'd say Font 7C with the dropknee method, which doesn't depend on the broken fh. Hard cos it's high and the clip is a bugger too. Not sure I'll be skipping it mind, I don't like skydiving!