"And I'm not into project ownership. But when you take a bad fall off the very top of a project and ask someone who hasn't been on it to let you polish it off and get ignored I see it as fairly shitty. And I see no difference between sport and trad projects when you've invested more money and evergy into doing a route than most sport projects, it certainly didn't appear anyone was trying it until I'd opened up the crux sequence, put wood hardener on the holds and got close on my 3rd visit before winter set in in 2017. Chodes"
Which seems to be different to:
From earlier in this thread:
It was an open project as Nick Dixon was encouraging Caff and Steve to get on it. Even so Steve got in touch with Caff to clear things and Caff texted something to the effect of that if he hadn't sent it by the end of the week (last week) then it was fair game as he was sick of trying it in crap conditions.
From Nick Dixon in Keith's article:
Caff started work on the project about 18 months ago and I could see he was way stronger than me on it. I have taken pleasure in this and whilst continuing to try it myself I have tried to support Caff in his ascent too. Caff and I had quite different sequences on it and he came really really close to a send about three weeks ago taking a massive lob. I spoke to Steve about the project about a year ago and I think Caff had spoken to him about it more recently encouraging him to have a go.
Was anyone else seriously trying for a lead before Caff?? (Sounds like Nick at least wasn't)
Was Steve trying it on lead before Caff's big attempt??
Was Caff's request to leave it for a week as exact and specific as that??
It isn't clear and without knowing the truth, it's hard to know what to feel, a pity as they're two extremely respect-worthy climbers.