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Euro multipitch destination recomendations (Read 4646 times)

dunnyg

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I was planning to go to the dolomites next week with the other half and climb loads of big easy routes and do some via-ferata, eat cheese etc.. Current condtions are a bit cold and snowy so it isn't looking great.

Does anyone have any suggestions for some nice places in europe to climb between here and the dolomites where we can do similar things? Big easy climbs in a nice place (easy being up to about trad VS, might be able to stretch to the odd pitch of 6a, but mostly easier). We are in a van so pretty mobile, just out to climb loads of cool stuff! Bonus points if there is a via ferata or 2.

Trip length is 3 weeks so have a reasonable range. Not really interested in snow plods, just rocky stuff.

spidermonkey09

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Ailefroide/Briancon? I'm going in a few weeks so if you do go gimme the beta! From what I've read you might struggle to get 3 weeks non stop but haven't been so not sure.

dunnyg

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Currently thinking about heading down to Ariege/verdone/finale ligure and maybe the dollies if it warms up a bit. I'll check out Ailefroide/Briancon, though Ailefroide was always in my mind as a good place for easy snow plods/scrables with the odd bit of multipitch.

bigironhorse

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I would also say Ailefroide  sounds perfect for what you describe. Plenty of long easy routes, might get a bit boring after a week or so though.

Paul B

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Calanques (careful where you park)? Conversely it might be quite warm! I'd dig out more than what the Rockfax guide has to offer if you go this way.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BwAS_cPBMPj/

There's a nice F6a ish route that heads left (looking in) from the Dalle Grises abs in the Verdon. There's only one pitch of that grade, the rest are 5+ I think and as it's popular with guided parties there are plenty of bolts. I can dig out the name (and of others, if you're interested).

I'm assuming Val di Mello has a similar forecast?

dunnyg

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Seems a bit tricky at the moment, snowy in the mountains, but a bit warm by the coast. I'll have a look at Calanques, thanks. See if I can persuade the other half that 6a is doable, Verdon looks ace. If the hard pitches arent traversy I'm sure we can get away with it.

Arco got suggested on the other channel, I'll have a look at val di mello, but assume snow melt might be an issue there too!

Paul B

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There's obviously stuff in Spain if you wished to go that direction.

Ged

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Another vote for aikfroide. Lots of multi pitch granite, and limestone stuff too. Some via ferrata around, loads of sport. Good walking. Hard to beat.

bigironhorse

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Val di mello is great, but in my experience the climbing is a lot more serious than ailefroide. Less fixed gear, less clean rock, longer walk ins and trickier descents.

If you do go to val di mello i have some translations for some easier routes from the german language guide. Not sure if there is an English one available?

SA Chris

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Another vote for aikfroide. Lots of multi pitch granite, and limestone stuff too. Some via ferrata around, loads of sport. Good walking. Hard to beat.

Spot of bouldering too.

Fultonius

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Aosta valley. Nice pizza, chilled out, good climbing. Via feratta, single and multipitch. Easy van parking.

Not too far from Mello / Dollies if the weather improves.

Worth stopping a day in valais on the way though, plenty of sport and bouldering there.

Ged

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Interesting. Never really thought of aosta valley. What's there then? Nice camping spots and family friendly stuff? Or more narly big stuff?

Fultonius

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We've had some really nice days, camping in the van, doing some fun easy multi-pitch.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=22426

There's harder single pitch too, but from memory there's a good selection of 4s and 5s, nothing committing or serious.

But....it's not like some places where the climbing is extensive in each area, it's a bit more scattered, but has that lovely backwater Italian charm (nobody there, bit ramshackle, goats everywhere).

We spent 2 nights at the parking spot of the crag above, one of the most memorable van dosses: 30+ goats wandering around the hamlet, fireflies, getting a hot solar shower, amazing scenery.

Not too far from Finale if the weather is better down there. (3 hours)

joel182

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Had a fun time doing this bolted multi-pitch at Orpierre - climbs a really obvious and inviting feature - only a couple hours drive from les Calanques too

dunnyg

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So, after perusing guidebooks and a vit of googling, curreny plan is head down to cote d'azure, but ailefroide sounds like a good option if it is too warm down that way. Cheers for all the ideas! So many options!

Paul B

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http://thierrysouchard.com/en/rock-around-the-world-2/ might be worth a look. If there's any specific routes you get interested in let me know and I'll have a dig around in my guidebook/topo collection.

dunnyg

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Cheers, we picked up the cockfax guide for starters which should keep us busy but i'll have a look.

Paul B

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For Calanques my feeling is that the stuff in the Cockfax isn't the best on offer.

dunnyg

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Any off book recomendation for shady sub 6a multipitch routes in the region (or in book) always appreciated

ghisino

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+1 for Aosta Valley.

Some of the most enjoyable sub-6a climbing i've done lately, in Arnad.
Slabby climbing on a particularly textured gneiss, it is not pure friction so it stays interesting all the way, and doesn't kill your calves in one pitch.


Verdon has some fine easy things too...arete du belvédère is a mega-classic at 5b (though a serious lead), arete de la patte de chèvre is very relaxed, adieu Zidane, l'offre, etc..

dunnyg

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What is the best guide for aosta easies? Is there somewhere local that stocks it? Sleepy backwater/easy van/nice multipitch sounds pretty ideal.

dunnyg

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Check back here after the trip out.

So we spent a few days in the Dentelles, near Orange in S of France, shady climbing was the order of the day, and there was plenty to do in the fives and sixes for a few days, including a couple of 2 pitch routes. The rock was ok, but the landscape was ace.

We ended up spending most of the time in Briancon, mixture of cragging, multipitch and some via-ferrata. Loads of good crags, a few average crags and a couple of shit crags (if it says 1 star in the guidebook, it isn't worth going). Camping was relatively cheap and abundant and the variety of rock was ace. We were climbing 5s and 6s and didn't scratch the surface in a couple of weeks. Would go back again, so much to do, we didn't even make it up to Ailefroide or do any of the mountaineering stuff on offer. Main regret is not going paddling on the river.

We drove down to Finale, but the campsites there are properly grim, just like a car park, with people crammed in. I think this may be common in Italy, but no way do I want to spend my jollies there. As a result we just drove back to Briancon! Climbing looks good though.

Finally we went to font on the way back but there wasn't much multipitch (managed a 7A in the summer heat though so proper chuffed).

Verdon was a bit comitting/hot for this trip, but would love to go at some point, would consider Aosta in the future too! Calanques would also have been roasting.

Think my favorite crag was Mt Dauphin, just because of the awesome conglomerate rock, grades from 3-8 and in a pleasant location https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3089.


 


spidermonkey09

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To add my 2p to the above from a week in Briancon  which overlapped dunnyg, I would also definitely go back. We were based in Argentiere which I would do again; seemed to be the best central location and some nice bars in the town along with all the relevant amenities.

- Mont Dauphin: mostly sunny conglomerate, or 'rubble' as my girlfriend referred to it as slightly dismissively. Good climbing, grades seemed about right with the exception of a few 5's. Some excellent long pitches.

- Rif D'Oriol: really cool location in a narrow gorge with a river flowing through it. Amazing looking, featured rock although a bit dubious in places. Good 5's and 6's, didn't do anything harder.

- Les Traverses et la Vignette - more amazing rock, but absolutely roasting in the summer heat. Very good for 5's and low 6's. Very pleasant outlook.

L'Atelier - described by Nico Favresse as 'rock quality like Ceuse, without the polish' after we stumbled into his garden looking for the airbnb. Had to go and have a look after that review. Amazing drive on mountain road followed by a track section to some parking by a concrete bridge. OK in rental car is you go steady. Easy walk in through beautiful alpine meadow to slightly grim A0 section on fixed ropes to access crag. Not too bad if you take your time. Crag itself is incredible; the 7a I did there was one of the best I have ever done. Spectacular views and amazing, pristine limestone with gottes d'eau pockets. Had to redpoint the 6b+, desperate. Well worth going for the 7a alone, lots more desperates.

Ailefroide - did some long single pitch stuff on the Fissure area. Nice place and good climbing in the 5's. Also got one route in in the Gorge sector which was amazing, would have liked to do more but it pissed it down. Another day we did Cascade Blues which is a 6a multipitch. Nothing incredible climbing wise but the highlight is crossing a waterfall. Can be abbed on a single 70m rope if you can't be arsed with doubles.

Rue de Masques - shady conglomerate area. Very good but not as much character as Mont Dauphin. Really handy when roasting hot though. The best 6's of the trip were here I think.

All in, nothing world class like Ceuse but loads of 2 star crags very close to each other. Getting around is easy on good roads. Would echo the above re the guidebook; we only went to two star or three star crags.

 

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