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Dogging bolt ethics (Read 16578 times)

Stu Littlefair

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#75 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 25, 2019, 01:50:13 pm
Just go and read Shark’s post that immediately precedes mine and you’ll have your answer

shark

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#76 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 25, 2019, 04:02:09 pm
rev ladder by TheUKBShark, on Flickr

For those "not good enough to do the moves" here is one solution for working it.


petejh

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#77 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 25, 2019, 04:26:38 pm
That’s bonkers! Have you ever thought about putting in a dogging bolt instead?...





shark

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#78 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 25, 2019, 04:33:09 pm
That’s bonkers! Have you ever thought about putting in a dogging bolt instead?...

 :slap: why didn’t I think of that?!

tomtom

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#79 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 25, 2019, 05:07:58 pm
Via ferrata at the Tor!

Genius.

teestub

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#80 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 25, 2019, 05:23:15 pm
Isn’t the Revelations crux at the bottom Font 7C or something? If someone can’t do an English 6A/+ move to get into this, then surely they don’t have a huge amount of chance of doing the crux and should try something easier?

shark

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#81 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 25, 2019, 06:04:47 pm
 :wall:

teestub

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#82 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 25, 2019, 06:55:25 pm
Is that the emoji for trying routes that are too hard?  ;D

Kingy

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#83 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 25, 2019, 10:38:32 pm
 :lol: Full marks for effort! Where there's a will, there's a way  ;) ::)

kc

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#84 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 26, 2019, 01:16:17 am
I thought you were complaining about my bolt placements for a minute there but I recall the first bolt is from a different time than the ones I replaced. It is a fat gray triangular headed petzl? resin bolt the same as the first on Sardine and Rubicon possibly placed by Squawk. Anyone suggesting the bolt was badly placed needs to remember the crux used to be easier. I rebolted the remainder of the route 16 years ago and climbed it 3years before that. No doggin bolt would have helped with the flying Polish sequence.
Even back then when people climbed Mecca without cheating that would get more ascents than Revelation. A tough 8a+. Too hard for me now.

shark

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#85 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 26, 2019, 08:17:16 am
It is a fat gray triangular headed petzl? resin bolt

Yes that’s the one and there is an older rusting ring bolt next to it.

Rob F

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#86 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 26, 2019, 04:39:46 pm
Never mind deviating to the triple 19, keep your aim on the triple 20...

shark

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#87 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 26, 2019, 05:34:26 pm
Never mind deviating to the triple 19, keep your aim on the triple 20...

It’s going down in the autumn

Rob F

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#88 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 27, 2019, 10:03:42 am
Well hurry along, it's soon going to be a new decade...

tomtom

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#89 Re: Dogging bolt ethics
May 27, 2019, 05:27:41 pm
Well hurry along, it's soon going to be a new decade...

How many decades now?

 

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