UKBouldering.com

Power Club 479 6th May -12th May (Read 16921 times)

Murph

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 653
  • Karma: +66/-0
Thanks Alex that clears it up. Yeah the middle BM is much easier. For me being able to one arm that is good enough for something a lot lot less than 8B.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1

When I read "Crimpd finger strength testing session" I assumed (maybe wrongly) that we were talking the Lattice edge.. in which case my PB is 2kg assist (for 5s hang) at a point when I weighted ~70kg; which means for me this is strong enough for (roughly) 8Bish...

What’s your opinion on testing this in terms of grip. When Tom originally tested it was using the grip that was your strongest (which makes sense) but now it seems testing has to be half-crimped

abarro81

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4286
  • Karma: +341/-25
I think they changed it because they found it correlated better if they forced 1/2 crimp - probably it kills some weird outliers like Ella (who is about 10kg stronger on a 3 finger drag than a 4 finger half crimp!)...

user deactivated

  • Guest
Tim mentioned SMART goals earlier and I’m really keen to get going with this idea. About 2 years ago I benchmarked about 15kg assistance on a 10mm edge hang which equated to about V3 on the scale I think? I’m wondering what I need to do to get back to lapping powerband, apart from visualisation techniques which I’ve started to incorporate. Maybe aim for 10kg assistance, does that equate to 7C or in powerbands case French 8a?

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
I think they changed it because they found it correlated better if they forced 1/2 crimp - probably it kills some weird outliers like Ella (who is about 10kg stronger on a 3 finger drag than a 4 finger half crimp!)...

One arm to two?

Last time I checked I was about 15kg stronger on a 2 arm hang dragging/chiselling on 4 fingers compared to half crimp on an edge though not the lattice one

user deactivated

  • Guest
It’s a tricky one this shark as dragging brings skin surface tension more into play which I’m sure reduced the reliability of the results? Maybe Barrows can explain better? I tend to benchmark with my half crimp or chisel

abarro81

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4286
  • Karma: +341/-25
You're better off asking Lattice rather than me...

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
You're better off asking Lattice rather than me...

Get sense out of you. Seems to me if you are going to attempt to correlate finger strength with route grade achievement you ideally test the three main grips / joint angles or if one then the strongest one that you’d default to on the route. Anyway don’t care much really it was idle curiosity. The only comparative that i care about is improvement against my own scores.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
It’s a tricky one this shark as dragging brings skin surface tension more into play which I’m sure reduced the reliability of the results? Maybe Barrows can explain better? I tend to benchmark with my half crimp or chisel

Get that but not going to let a boy with a clipboard ‘drag’ my score and self-esteem down from 8a to 7b

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
It’s a tricky one this shark as dragging brings skin surface tension more into play which I’m sure reduced the reliability of the results? Maybe Barrows can explain better? I tend to benchmark with my half crimp or chisel

Get that but not going to let a boy with a clipboard ‘drag’ my score and self-esteem down from 8a to 7b

Age will do it eventually 😃

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
The only comparative that i care about is improvement against my own scores.
... not going to let a boy with a clipboard ‘drag’ my score and self-esteem down from 8a to 7b

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2574
  • Karma: +166/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
The only comparative that i care about is improvement against my own scores.

Preach!  :agree:

Steve R

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 647
  • Karma: +53/-1
then the strongest one that you’d default to on the route.

I'd guess that's a crucial bit.  Anecdotally, I've seen a couple of low sevens (font) rounded climbers able to comfortably hang bw on the BM2k middle bottom incut slot one armed with 3 finger drag.  Arm's straight suggesting a very passive hang on the skellington?  Get the same climber under the cosh on a route or problem and they won't be trying to straight arm, 3 finger drag their way upwards even if the holds bear close resemblance that bm2k slot. 

user deactivated

  • Guest
You're better off asking Lattice rather than me...

Thanks Alex, I’ll get on their Facebook page. I fear direct contact with the board would have to take place through a psychic or medium in direct contact with the transcendent beings of planet LeTTuCe (fuck broke cover)

tim palmer

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 735
  • Karma: +34/-0

Hanging one arm from the middle slot of a bm2k = 8B strength?

For real??


Am I wrong in thinking it doesn't mean you are 8b strong, it just means by this arbitrary measure you are comparable to people who have climbed 8b? 

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
The only comparative that i care about is improvement against my own scores.
... not going to let a boy with a clipboard ‘drag’ my score and self-esteem down from 8a to 7b

It’s a koan.

Furrow your brow and you may gain enlightenment

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3

Hanging one arm from the middle slot of a bm2k = 8B strength?

For real??


Am I wrong in thinking it doesn't mean you are 8b strong, it just means by this arbitrary measure you are comparable to people who have climbed 8b?

Yes for all the Lattice measures I think it's "other people have climbed at level X with this level of strength/endurance in the given task".

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1984
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
 FWIW - A while back I did their assessment and they listed 103% of BW as normal for v11, and 107% of BW was standard for v12. So I'd assume BW only on the 20mm testing edge is around v10ish.

Which I must be a bit of an outlier as I've never hung bodyweight on a 20mm, and have done 8A+/8B...

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
Which I must be a bit of an outlier as I've never hung bodyweight on a 20mm, and have done 8A+/8B...

Well yeah this is it, strong enough for 8B for one person might be only enough for 8A for someone else, and vice versa. It's the averages across a large data set that are probably most interesting but even then it's surely little more than a guide.

As another case in point, when I did my first few supposed 8As I was an absolute country mile off one arm hanging the beastmaker middle low edge and the best I've managed a couple of years on is still only c. 93% of bodyweight.

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
Although my grades are way lower than all of yours, I probably have the weakest fingers relative to grades climbed...

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
But the strongest arms Coops  :strongbench:

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
But the strongest arms Coops  :strongbench:

😃 ain’t that the truth

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
Dave Graham has climbed 8C+ and I know he’d be wank at these one arm tests. I’ve seen him try to hang off one arm. Then are ‘punters’-who measure 8B strength on the tests  :shrug:
« Last Edit: May 17, 2019, 05:48:34 pm by Doylo »

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
Dave Graham has climbed 8C+ and I know he’d be wank at these one arm tests. I’ve seen him try to hang off one arm. Then are ‘punters’-who measure 8B strength on the tests  :shrug:
Yes but when Tommy Caldwell and his fiance ages ago went on tour across the USA to gather stats for a dissertation about climbers' fingers, Graham scored the highest finger strength. I read it on Climbing Magazine, they didn't say much more but I assume it was two arms crimped.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
And yes, I am fairly certain that
The Lattice references work the other way round, that is not in a predictive way. They are the result of testing people that have climbed a certain grade and not of training people on the Edge until they reach a certain level on that and then letting them out on rock to see which grade they can climb.
And finally, you can't compare half crimp scores and front3 drag scores, just as you can't compare apples and oranges, or Fuckalls and Pounds.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal