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Power Club 479 6th May -12th May (Read 16969 times)

Steve R

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Aims: uninjured, 70kg, all the 8's

M - light river hull run, ~40mins
T- Mad vollies wall pm. ususal thing, trying some upstairs circuit problems then getting stuck in on the board for session peak.
W -~40min run + stretch
T- MV wall pm. same as tues really.  felt good so think/hope recovery between sessions is improving.
F- rest
S- rest
S- Rylstone, easy bouldering.  Pretty warm and very scrittly cons but nice day to be up there. no other bloc boulderers or trad scrittlerers in sight. 

finger audit; lump seems bigger and harder but not tender at all now when poked and prodded.  feeling relatively optimistic about it but will remain vigilant. Hoping lump size reduces a bit.  weight static in 75/6 kg range- resigned to putting more effort into this a bit down the line when strength (re)gain curve flattens off.  Will just keep on with unstructured sessions for time being, obvs not optimally efficient but enjoyable and def moving in the right direction.

SA Chris

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M- nowt. Helped out at kids athletics in evening
T - 6.75 km run. leg still hurts
W - wall session. Actually felt OK and managed a few harder things
T - yoga, hard with sore shoulders from climbing
F - nothing
S - nothing
S - wall with kids. Both climbed quite well, and managed a good session on new probs. Start of running assessment in afternoon, impressed so far, highlighted a few issues.

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Steve, I’d lower the intensity but increase the volume. Maybe consider a solid 6-8 week ancap phase moving into summer then building the finger up from there. These issues take a while. Lots of up-downing on auto belays or circuits on the 10 minutes. Try to hang from a jug rather than step off completely even if both feet are on the ground 👍

Yossarian

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Steve, I’d lower the intensity but increase the volume. Maybe consider a solid 6-8 week ancap phase moving into summer then building the finger up from there. These issues take a while. Lots of up-downing on auto belays or circuits on the 10 minutes. Try to hang from a jug rather than step off completely even if both feet are on the ground 👍

Power Club is now sponsored by DanCap Training Inc.

If you can't beat 'em, Cheetham...

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I thought it was solid advice. Anyway I’m going to have to ride out the storm here I guess. I’m determined to stick to the training plan. High intensity low volume with big rest. Keen to see gains that way and get on some bigger grades in the winter

Steve R

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Thanks for the tailored plan, cheque made out to UFCK is in the post.

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Hey I’m nothing to do with thaT bunch of piss taking arseholes

Murph

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Lagers describes it as 5B to do the move, 6B to bail.
Love it!

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Think you've said in the past that you rarely go to new places preferring to stick with what you know? Maybe you should branch out elsewhere, climb a load of stuff at lower grades, but climb them well not just scrape up them. Keep repeating until they feel easy for the grade.  You're clearly strong enough but maybe need to work on expanding your movement vocabulary, and your belief in it. Then you'll spot the knack more easily and won't be getting shut down on stuff you feel you should be capable of.
Thanks for this Nai. You’re right of course. Almost all of my climbing is either with the kids or on a short pass. Both sort lend themselves to convenience boulders. But I could certainly branch out or at least try different things at my normal venues. Just did that today and got spanked on a 6A slab, a 6B mantle thing and a 7A slab.

Meanwhile yesterday repeating something called steep traverse, though I have no memory of doing it before I did see some folk on it, so just copied what they did and it felt like a path. Where is the hard version of steep traverse?

Sorry folks, appreciate I’m a bit of a broken record on this. I love climbing but I’m really dyslexic over it and things that others seem to just get I find I need spelling out. Every now and then I find one I can do and so of course I do it lots. Promise to go climbing other things as part of my training plan.

tomtom

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Some great posts this week. welComE Dan :)

AMorris. Superb! 8A!!!

I've a had a good climbing week.

M: Back to Birchen and Gardoms with Plattsy. We both managed to see off MP3 in reasonably rapid time after Saturdays efforts (cooler - ie not direct sunshine - temps helped) Here's Plattsy in action - Murph. Here's a very soft 7B... though the move might be a bit of a stretch sure theres another way...



Then back down to Bin Ladens cave - I felt spent - but managed to figure out the top of Bin Lillemule - and once figured it felt not so bad... great problem that doesnt get as much attention as Bin Ladens cave - but is just as good IMHO.



Tu: Over to work in 'ull and caught up with SteveR at Hulls new premier bouldering venue Mad Volume. A bit spent as my second day on, but a great venue and had a good work out.

We:

Th:

Fri: Had a pass... weather looked crap. Unintentionally missed Nai's message about heading to -10 and stayed at home and did some work. Did some assiseted one armer things in the afternoon. Felt weak, but enjoyed pulling hard. Tennis elbow behaved itself...

Sa: Blackstone. GREAT day for it.... did some great low 6’s that I’d not done before - and then a comedy circuit of problems I couldn’t do :) including...

Naomi’s wall SS 7B+. Managed to get my arse off the deck on this one but felt like I’d need all my lank to keep my right toe under the lip. Good effort Mike on this.. very hard for the not tall I’d suspect.

Fridge Hugger SS. 7B+ Better than ever before here - potential using the GCW slap method - got my RH quite a long way up the Arête...

Then Fiend turned up to cheer me on :D - and on to...

Niks Slap 7A - at Robin Mueller suggestion - couldn’t even raise an arse cheek off the deck 😂
Peewees under cuts 7B. See above. 😂
Niks Groove 7A. Progress here - levitated off the deck but couldn’t keep in balance enough to slap up with the left.

For most of the above Fiend looked on and chortled at the futility of my bouldering. I had my revenge introducing him to a 6B slab in the sun then runnong off home :)


nai

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Murph. Here's a very soft 7B... though the move might be a bit of a stretch sure theres another way...




Not height dependent but probably not 7B either

Murph

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Thanks TT looks absolutely bob on that one. Good vid on that one with the funky top out too  :clap2:

Nibile

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Power Club

Mon - various weights with finisher set (rest pause). Static-dynamic pull ups. Tired!
Tue - rest.
Wed - BM front3 one arm on small pocket + yoke complex x5, all x6. Abs.
Thu - boxing bag, speed. Speed is the mother of all power.
Fri - weights of some sort.
Sat - clean and press, snatch pulls, farmer's.
Sun - weights, yoke complex.

Quite happy about the one arm hangs on front3 after ages.

xelaxela

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Goals: Remain Uninjured , 62kg, back to bouldering 7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still OK, Still 75.7kg, 6C regularly (7A indoors)

M - Bank Holiday so indoor wall was closed ended up just training 3 sets of 10 hanging leg raises with strict form holding for 1 seconds at the top of each rep and 5 sets of 10 pull ups on each minute
T - Rain!!! ended up climbing going to Craig-y-Longridge anyway as its normally dry for light rain, but only got about 20 mins of climbing in over the 2 hours as the wind was blowing the rain into the rock
W - Switched from two handed to one handed dead hangs on a 20mm edge as was starting to get too hard to hang more weight off myself - so I did the Crimpd finger strength testing session and found out my 1 rep max hang on one arm is only 2 kg's under my body weight was super happy with that  :weakbench:
T - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
F - Went for a weekend away with the family so nothing
S - Still away
S - Still away

Steve R

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Goals: ....62kg...7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still 75.7kg, 
...found out my 1 rep max hang on one arm is only 2 kg's under my body weight was super happy with that 
If you hit your 62kg goal (or even get half way there) whilst maintaining current finger strength I'd have thought 7C's would most likely serve as pleasant warm ups whilst touring around on 8B's.

teestub

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What Steve R said! You definitely already have 7C strong fingers at your current weight so it’s not going to be that holding you back.

abarro81

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Power Club

Goals: ....62kg...7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still 75.7kg, 
...found out my 1 rep max hang on one arm is only 2 kg's under my body weight was super happy with that 
If you hit your 62kg goal (or even get half way there) whilst maintaining current finger strength I'd have thought 7C's would most likely serve as pleasant warm ups whilst touring around on 8B's.

Even without losing weight I'd say that's strong enough for 8B

Steve R

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I'm sure there's a very funny and original joke to do with height and knee-bars to be made at this point but yeh, I'll just take your word for it!

Murph

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Hanging one arm from the middle slot of a bm2k = 8B strength?

For real??

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Yeah, I think that’s what it says in the rankings when all other variables are taken into account . I’m still just deciding between a cwp, Lopez, Anderson or moon protocol. Anyone experimented with these? Which showed the most gains?

nai

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The getting on with it and trying ufcking hard protocol generally works

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Thanks ian, I’m really keen on trying the cwp protocol but I read a while back the feathering risks injury? The Anderson protocol is repeaters which seems to high volume for full recruitment and neuromuscular adaptation. Plus any advantage over bilateral versus unilateral hangs?

nai

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I've found that going bouldering, going home half an hour early and doing some shoulder and core exercises has not only made me stronger but a more skilled rock climber too, so have all but given up fingerboarding unless I do something really stupid like injure my leg.

joeisidle

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Better late than never;
M – Light weights for shoulders & engagement exercises, therabanding, leg raises, mountain climbers and press-ups
T –  Stoke AW; Good indoor session, do a circuit problem I'd been trying on previous sessions and two board projects I'd failed on previously
W- Nada
T- Same
F -  Light weights for shoulders & engagement exercises, therabanding, leg raises, mountain climbers and press-ups
S – Dartmoor bouldering (Black hill boulders and Bonehill) – attempt to go to Bovey Woods but waste a load of time walking in and find it damp, do a gentle circuit at Blackhill, get spanked by anything harder than 6b and rapidly run out of skin, but have a decent time and meet some nice locals
S- Indoor ropes; gentle volume and some therabanding

teestub

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Yeah, I think that’s what it says in the rankings when all other variables are taken into account . I’m still just deciding between a cwp, Lopez, Anderson or moon protocol. Anyone experimented with these? Which showed the most gains?

Hey Dan have you done some benchmarking against your SMART short, medium and long term goals to make sure isometric finger strength is the correct KPI to focus on to achieve the performance gains you are after?

abarro81

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Hanging one arm from the middle slot of a bm2k = 8B strength?

For real??

When I read "Crimpd finger strength testing session" I assumed (maybe wrongly) that we were talking the Lattice edge.. in which case my PB is 2kg assist (for 5s hang) at a point when I weighted ~70kg; which means for me this is strong enough for (roughly) 8Bish... obviously style dependant, I'm sure there are plenty of 8Bs it's not strong enough for me to get up, but there'd be plenty it is. BM edge is easier, especially if you nestle, but I don't know quantifiably how much easier...

 

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