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Heavy ass lifting club 480 13-19 May (Read 13421 times)

teestub

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Sat - Sodom and Gomorrah, Calamity Crack fall.


Hi Dan

I found this video about crack climbing technique that might help you get the climbs you want to faster


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Jesus Tim it’s nearly 30 minutes long ffs

duncan

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Weeks 479 & 480
STG: Don’t get injured. Get on some E3s and E4s.
MTG: a classic sea cliff E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.

Preamble...
The first rock climbing slideshow I ever saw was Ed Webster in 1979 who presented a multimedia extravaganza of stunning images from Colorado and the Utah desert to a classic Americana soundtrack. A far cry from worthy snowplodding that was the staple of the lecture circuit at the time. We now are so saturated with insta climbing pictures it is hard to convey the impact of the first sight of Indian Creek, Desert Towers and the Black Canyon exploding on the screen. I didn’t know they existed and certainly hadn’t seen pictures of them.

It’s a puzzle to me why I have not climbed in these places more often than a single short trip, I guess I got distracted by Yosemite. Fifteen years ago habrich and I climbed some towers and took a look at The Black from the north rim. Gulp! Fortunately it snowed overnight and we could bail with a clear conscience.

We agreed to meet in Denver and have another go. It was just as intimidating as I remembered and the weather was only a little better.

S - The appropriate Maiden Voyage (a three pitch 5.9 ~HVS). A good loosener.
M - Rest.
T - Scenic Cruise (5.10d+, 11 to 16 pitches, depending how you split them). All went reasonably well to through  the pegmatite traverse. The second 5.10d pitch (~ 7) proved rather challenging and some shenanigans were employed. Thereafter we made steady progress and topped out in the light. This is a long (~2000’) route on a big (~1700’) steep cliff with no easy climbing after the first two pitches. I think we both underestimated it and the doubtful weather also forced our hand regarding timing. Certainly 3 Pembroke E2s in a day was woefully inadequate preparation! Ideally we should have done the trip in reverse or have allowed more preparation time. Don’t let any of this put you off, it’s a world classic and should be on any moderately strong team’s agenda.
W - Rest, stretches
T - Independence Monument: Otto’s route. 5.9 or about HVS. A 75% manufactured route has no right to be so much fun.
F - Drove to Denver. Stopped off in Clear Creek Canyon. A locals crag. Did the 10b warm-up, tried a nice 11b but failed on a wringing wet top after managing the crux.
S - Drove to The Needles
S - The Needles. Gazed in awe at the Gill route on the Thimble. Climbed a couple of Royal Robbins routes: On Little Cat Feet (10b) and Tricouni Nail (5.8 R) amongst others. I really liked The Needles: sublime sub-alpine scenery and stout old-school climbs. In retrospect, we should have spent more time hear but were eager to move on to...
M - The Devils Tower. Disappointed to find nesting peregrines closed El Matador and many of the better routes. Did Soler (5.9) to the summit. Further disappointment at the lack of alien life-forms.
T - Devils Tower. New Wave (.10a) and Burning Daylight (.10b). The latter was like 3 Brown/Whillans grit routes stacked on each other. Really good. Just missed being hit by spectacular thunderstorm with hail that made the Denver news. Not all teams were so lucky. 
W - Epic drive through Montana, Idaho and Washington. Scoped the climbing near Bozeman but it looked a bit meh, the forecast was iffy, and we moved on.
T - Frenchman Coulee. Calling this Washington’s Portland (Dorset not Oregon) is probably a bit harsh but it was similarly crowded and of unprepossessing appearance. The dolerite was excellent rock to climb on. A mix of sport and trad. to .11b. Bumped into an old friend completely by chance.
F - Ran out of gas, mentally and physically. Warmed-up on a 5.9 and had a couple of desultory tries at a 10d.
S - Leavenworth (Pearly Gates). Routes to 10b
S - Leavenworth (Alphabet rock). Routes including Z crack (sandbag 10c) and St Vitus Dance 5.10d, a wild roof on huecos you could crawl into.  Leavenworth was a weird town notable for a council-mandated Bavarian kitsch aesthetic but the climbing was a lot of fun in a lovely mountain setting. On to Seattle and start the journey home.

A good trip with some bucket list places visited and goals attempted. Very interesting seeing parts of the US outside my usual haunts and got a much better sense of the scale of places like South Dakota, Wyoming and Montana.  Didn’t climb anything very hard for a mix of reasons but managed close to 50 pitches, mostly in the E1-2 range, which should be a good base to work up from.

Plan: try some harder trad. routes.

Duma

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Hey Duma, is there a vid of a PINCU about? Keen to give those bad boys a go. No ideas what it is but sounds like some hardcore lEttuCe shit

sadly not:
Palms In Narrow Chin Ups
- I'm particularly shit at undercuts and am hoping some bicep specific stuff will help

SA Chris

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Yep, be a good change. 12 years in 1 place is a long time!

How you going to make most of your 7 weeks off?

Finally build woodie in garage, get garage sorted in general (have 20" screen pilfered from old office to go on the wall), get a load of climbing done, got a hill running route I'd like to explore, visit Glen Lednock, do a bit of surfing on Moray coast etc etc. I suspect the 3 weeks before the start of the school holidays will pass in the blink of an eye.

SA Chris

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Preamble...
The first rock climbing slideshow I ever saw was Ed Webster in 1979 who presented a multimedia extravaganza of stunning images from Colorado and the Utah desert to a classic Americana soundtrack.

First I ever saw in sanctioned South Africa was Todd Skinner, one of the first international climbers to visit. Brilliant stortyteller, with fantastic photos, throwing knives and reading poems. Inspired me for US roadtrips too, finally managed a couple, some 15 years later. Sounds like you had a great trip.

cheque

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Oh hello! I have no idea what you look like - was that you trying on trousers? Do say hello if you see me again.

Your ***sub-hvs list - does it include Chee Tor Girdle? I have told a mate I will climb white horses with him but I’m a bit scared. The guy in outside said I may as well practice on some traversey climbs in the peak and that was one of the ones he suggested. It looks amazing.

I only realised it was you when I saw your video on here yesterday. I was just standing around waiting to buy a wire while the guy was serving a fella trying on shoes.

The Chee Tor Girdle is indeed on the list! Me and a friend have been meaning to do it for about 8 years and he indicated to me that he’s still up for it yesterday evening. I could do it twice of course though. The weekend after this one would be a possibility.

Debauchery on High Tor is probably the closest thing in the Peak to ADoWH (although, like Nai says, there’s nothing that will really prepare you!) if you don’t already have that on your list. I probably won’t be up to that this summer though sadly.

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Wow looks like a big trip Duncan! You must have covered a lot of ground! Seems you were lucky with the weather as it’s been a bit changeable these last few weeks

Smith42

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Just back at work after two week trip to Kalymnos with the girlfriend.
It was awesome.  With some careful management of intensity, effort, route choice, good diet, skin care etc. I managed to climb everyday.

Did just over thirty routes, half of which were 7a or harder.  Divided my days between trying red points in a day or on sighting or active recovery days.  Hard to single out any particular highlight, so many enjoyable routes. Only regret was not going back to finish Totem Pole after getting so close but conditions in the cave were terrible so seemed like a big risk and the GF hated the walk in.

The finger niggles i had picked up just before going seem to of cleared up.  My weight has gone up slightly to 73kg! but that may of been last night blow out and travelling back. The preparation for the trip was excellent and really paid off. 

One of the main aims of the trip was to kick start my limestone season so I can finally finish The Bulge at Kilnsey.  I do feel like I v got my leading head back but probably still a bit short on aerobic capacity for 8a yet. 

Looking forward to finding out in the coming weeks! 

cheque

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Just back at work after two week trip to Kalymnos with the girlfriend.
It was awesome.  With some careful management of intensity, effort, route choice, good diet, skin care etc. I managed to climb everyday.

Did just over thirty routes, half of which were 7a or harder. 

A good trip with some bucket list places visited and goals attempted. Very interesting seeing parts of the US outside my usual haunts and got a much better sense of the scale of places like South Dakota, Wyoming and Montana.  Didn’t climb anything very hard for a mix of reasons but managed close to 50 pitches, mostly in the E1-2 range

Both of these trips sound fantastic. :2thumbsup:

Nibile

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Power Club

Mon - weights, boxing bag.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, garage session and power cleans up to 74 kg (92,5%). Good speed. Yoke complex.
Thu - BM small 10" x6 x6. Weights.
Fri - rest.
Sat - overhead and shoulder carry walk, 2/2 x5. Snatch pulls, EMOM 10x5. Ab wheel. Tired.
Sun - rest. Mounted a boxing fast bag in the garage!

Decreased volume and increased intensity. Will go ahead like this, adding some finishers.
Very glad about the power clean.

SA Chris

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Sun - rest. Mounted a boxing fast bag in the garage!


A speed ball?

Nibile

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Yes!!! So cool!!!
And so frustrating!!!
« Last Edit: May 21, 2019, 03:50:00 pm by Nibile »

SA Chris

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It would probably knock me out!

Yossarian

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Two weeks:

M - Wall. Worked on refining some problems on the wave. Quite productive.
T - Lovely afternoon at Harrison's. Repeated some things around Unclimbed Wall and then tried Dennis the Menace (vertical 7c) which understandably felt nails.
W - Weights / shoulder rehab
T - Wall. Fingers / wrists a bit achey so ended up doing 10x 6b+ circuit and then some foot-on campus. Tired.
F - Bowles. Enjoyable afternoon repeating some classics, and then failed to do Hate cleanly which was a bit disappointing.
S - Wall. Slab reset, which was lucky as arms were v tired. Fun session.
S
M - Wall. More new problems, not particularly focused.
T - Harrison's. Didn't warm up properly and everything felt a bit strained. Did Slimfinger Crack which I'd not tried before. Flakes Direct felt desperate. Left with wrists feeling a bit fucked.
W
T
F
S - Wall. After three days off I was expecting to feel fresh, but actually felt knackered still. Spent ages warming up and then did some new problems / tried to avoid damaging skin and getting too tired.
S - Winspit. Brilliant day/ With 8 year old (on her first day out sport climbing) and beginner chum. Mid 6s mileage (exactly what I needed) - failed to onsight Queen Anne's Men 6c as hadn't warmed up sufficiently and got crazily pumped (whilst failing to spot jugs just above) which was annoying, but fun second go. The nearby 7s looked good so syked for a return trip soon.

Two weeks with quite a lot of getting outside, but all very unstructured and not much proper training. Shoulder feels quite a lot better so need to plan sessions with board / campus / circuit laps and foot-on campus, and try some harder things outside. Might make Road Rage and Zinc Oxide Mountain (both 7b+) my main aims for the second half of the year, along with Empire of the Sun. Also need to return to Torbryan and try Brean too...

Wood FT

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Side note; but I saw a brilliant picture of Road Rage the other day, great for psyche. Portland or Siurana....

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bxso99pDSqb/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

nai

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Sun - rest. Mounted a boxing fast bag in the garage!

Was that inspired by Jerry in SoY?

jwi

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Yossarian

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I heard good things about it (which were totally justified) and then I found out it had an abseil point at the top for access during the bird ban on the neighbouring section. Which makes shunting easy - apparently Pete Oxley used to train on the wall back in the day. It’s got some sections which are thinner than I was expecting given the angle and how sustained it is, but I’m sure I can deal with that eventually. It was really classy in general, and so unlike anything else I’ve tried on Portland. Detonator and Illusions next door looked good too, though I’ve not tried them. Also want to get on the routes around Coralized...

Nibile

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Sun - rest. Mounted a boxing fast bag in the garage!

Was that inspired by Jerry in SoY?
Unfortunately I still haven't had the chance to watch it... But surely yes, in a subliminal way.

xelaxela

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Goals: Remain Uninjured , 62kg, back to bouldering 7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still OK, Still 75.7kg, 6C regularly (7A indoors)

M - Annual Leave - spent with the family in the day and a good session at Craig-y-Longridge in the evening

T - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each. then did a  one handed dead hangs on a 20mm edge session with 8kgs assistance 6 x 10 seconds with 2 mins rest and 3 sets of 10 leg raises.

W - Craig-y-Longridge again - this time with a group of 3 mates. we started on the far left and did the first 15 routes. I tried 'Grow Wings' again and still cant move off the standing start right hand hold. will keep working it seems silly as I can do that rest of the route and all the other moves on the SDS  :wall:. Will defiantly feel good when I get it though

T - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work , 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each and 15 minutes of shoulder stability work on the TRX i.e. I, Y, T and rows. Also did 3 sets of 10 leg raises in the evening.

F - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each. then did a  one handed dead hangs on a 20mm edge session with 8kgs assistance 6 x 10 seconds with 2 mins rest and 3 sets of 10 leg raises.
S - Rest Day
S - Rest Day but still did a light core workout

highrepute

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Side note; but I saw a brilliant picture of Road Rage the other day, great for psyche. Portland or Siurana....

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bxso99pDSqb/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

The comment "the only thing of value at this crag" seems to give it away  :-\

Wood FT

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Side note; but I saw a brilliant picture of Road Rage the other day, great for psyche. Portland or Siurana....

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bxso99pDSqb/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

The comment "the only thing of value at this crag" seems to give it away  :-\

Tripe spouted by consumption climbers, they’re everywhere

jwi

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Tripe spouted by consumption climbers, they’re everywhere

+1

Duma

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Ben is a mate, but RR is def not the only worthwhile thing there. The 7c's to the right (detonator and something I can't remember) are both good too.

 

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