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Back around Club 478 29 April - 5 May (Read 7256 times)

shark

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Anyway I was wondering if I could do a ‘power club roundup’ sort of a subjective review of the weekly news from you guys? What ya reckons?

Fill your boots. Must include micro and macro aggressions though

tomtom

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T- attempted to go to Malham but upon walking in was informed that a young lad had tragically jumped from the top. Went to gordale instead but psych had evaporated.


Jeez - that’s proper grim. Puts a lot of what we get up to in perspective.

shark

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Occasionally on my mid session walk to the top I have the urge to do the same

tommytwotone

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Goal - that one last new (to me) outdoor Font 7a


Nowt much, apart from Friday, switching over gym memberships having moved offices from one side of Leeds city centre to the other. Hoping this gives me the impetus to get back to regular conditioning / HIIT / cardio / keeping the middle aged spread at bay.


Saturday, took (aged 5) daughter to the Climbing Lab (having taken her younger brother last week I think her nose was well out of joint). Great session, she did loads and was really keen, and I got to climb until I was done in.


Yet again I was somehow the oldest and (one of) the hardest-ticking climbers there. Would pat myself on the back for knocking out 3 or 4 V5-7s in short order but their grading is a bit all over the place so maybe I just picked ones that suited me.


Rest of weekend was a write-off when aforementioned daughter came down with a tummy bug...








cheque

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Nice work MoF & Murph. You’d benefit from Jerry’s Mastermind book I reckon Murph.

Rehab Diaries Week Thirty-seven

STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Grit Trad list (1716/20 remain), onsighting HVS/ low 6s by end of September.

M- Rest.

T- Dentist in the morning- I need a “reconstructive filling” I had about 18 months ago replaced with a proper crown as it got fucked up underneath it (not brushing my teeth for about a week when I was first in hospital didn’t do them much good!) but first I have to have two weeks without either to let the swelling of my infected gum recede. :boohoo: This made me realise that feeling rundown and getting ill easily for the past month has probably been related to my toothache.

Exercise bike in the gym later- first time for a month. Increased the levels as usual but didn’t feel that bad- fitness has obviously improved in the meantime!

T-F- Rest. Recovery from bike and wanted to save myself for the long weekend.

S- Stanage Plantation, teaching girlfriend to belay- she took pity on me moping about not being able to climb on my own any more and this is a bit of a potential game changer for me. :bounce: decided not to mess about getting her toproping indoors or anything and got straight into lead belaying on trad.

Climbed up and down a Mod many times teaching her, led a VDiff without speaking to her any more than I would to any other belayer then onsighted an HS (keep in mind that’s still not a trivial thing for me) and it went great. Good afternoon.

S- Filming for the first time in three months. Amazing how much lighter my bag and tripod feel now! :strongbench:

M- Running Hill Pits. Drove over there and my partner was nowhere to be found (it’s not a trivial matter to check whether someone’s at the crag there either!) but luckily a group of other friendly climbers were so I joined in with them.

Led Plumb Line (off my list) ground up- great stuff. Not sure if I’d have onsighted it if I’d have warmed up on something easier first but beggars can’t be choosers! Then dogged the fuck out of an E1 finger crack on second and, as there was a toprope on Weaver’s Wall, had a go at that. I would have saved this for a future onsight in the past (I had a go at soloing it on my only previous visit to the Pits but downclimbed in a bit of a panic when I hit the slopey break...) but bold stuff like this is off the agenda for me now sadly. Anyway, I flashed it but it didn’t feel easy!

Cool BH weekend. Very grateful to find partners yesterday and psyched to get out and do some routes with my other half holding the rope (haven’t taught her to use doubles yet) in future.

The grit trad routes are feeling gradually easier but the crux of them all is getting my left leg up high! Need to work on hamstring-type stretching starting now.

« Last Edit: May 07, 2019, 10:43:04 am by cheque »

SA Chris

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M - nothing
T- nothing
W - wall session - strange feeling very light, but very weak at the same time.
T- nothing
F - nothing
S - not much
S - walk to beach with kids.

Post marathon euphoria wearing off. need to find something else to aim for

Duma

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Goals: Uninjured, 70kg, 8A in UK, Rocklands in June.

M - 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 15PINCU.
T - TCA, Moonboard 90min, did some 7A's then failed dismally on Pure Wood a couple of times. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 15PINCU.
W - TCA, terrible session, still feeling crap from nights. A few undercut bumps on the moonboard were the only thing worth mentioning. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 15PINCU.
T - 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 15PINCU.
F - drive to wales. Wander up to crag to check it out but didn't climb.
S - Dinbren. Not expecting much as the burly undercut nature of the climbing doesn't suit me, but had really fun day and didn't climb too badly - Resist and Exist 6b to warm up (in trainers as forgot to bring climbing shoes to wales...) thankfully Ollie then turned up and had a spare pair in my size. Con-Dem-Nation 6c+, Hot Stuff 7a, and The Bandits 7b+, decent flash go on this but messed up a foot swap - went ok second go.
S - Dinbren. No sun and a slight change in the wind direction meant a brutally cold day - not the relaxed Bank Holiday bolt clipping I'd envisioned... Managed Trailer Trash 6b, Gemma's World Direct 6c, Climb High 7a, Traction Trauma 6c+, and then got really cold before failing dismally on flash go on I Punched Judy First 7b+. Couldn't muster the psyche for another go and then got lost amongst all the options and fell off on a tr attempt on Dreadlocks 7a+ (we didn't have any wires for the start). Retreated to the pub to warm up.

Ace weekend despite the cold on Sunday.
Av 70.5kg

tommytwotone

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Good to hear it's going well Cheque - and you're a brave man roping the girlfriend in on belay duties. You clearly have a very secure relationship!

RE hamstring etc. A smattering of PC regulars are / have picked up tweak recently so I'm sure will be along to give you some pointers. I thought I'd done mine but having had all the usual stretch recommendations have no impact I suspect it's more likely sciatica.


xelaxela

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Power Club

Goals: Remain Uninjured , 62kg, back to bouldering 7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still OK, 75.7kg, 6C regularly (7A indoors)

M - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
T - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
W - Rain!!! ended up climbing inside again at Blackpool Bouldering Wall again, worked a V6/7 and V7 on the 40° overhang still havent done them and they are the only 2 routes undone from the current set I haven't managed still good session.
T - Rest climbing wall closed for local election counting in the sports centre :wall:
F - Rest climbing wall closed for local election counting in the sports centre :wall:
S - Craig Y Longridge did 6 new routes good day  :dance1:
S - Was meant to be another rest day but ended up doing some 3 sets of 10 5kg weighted hanging leg raises plus a set of 10 5kg oblique hanging leg raises either side. that burned but better form than with 10kg added

 

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