[shark]

11.0-3 Average155.9 up 0.1lb on last week

M AM Chee Tor with Nick. No warm ups He put the rope up Boobs, Andy Popps vert vision/nightmare. At least as hard as In Brine or Bain de Sang.

Second session on it for Nick. I had a long go working out and doing most of the moves Hard moves between dire small holds - felt like I’d been on Broomgrove all winter. Second go tried to shut out the pain pulling on the bad crimp on the low crux but couldn’t. Came down. Nick did some good links. Decamped.

Nick went home and I popped to the Tor. Rammed. Had three goes on Bens from kneebar. 1st go mistimed pull to high edge on THFML 2nd go did it to top! 3rd go swung off holding the high edge. Came home still buzzing did some weighted hangs. Got my psyche back.

T

W AM Started doing a Fingerboard/Ergo Edge sesss but off the pace on the progressions so stopped before attempting max hangs. Clearly had overdone it on Monday

T

F Eve drove to Devon

S AM S. AM Assisted one armers and weighted deadhangs benchmarking session on an S7 campus rung in a barn. About 2.5kgs stronger on unstrict half crimps and drags compared to when I did it last 11 weeks ago. Had 16 sessions on ergo edge since then. Best hang was +27.5kgs for 6 secs. Thought I’d be weaker on assisted one armers but was stronger. No improvements on drag but that might have been conditions

Eve Folk dancing, beer swilling and pasties

S Drove back

Plan was to climb mon, weds and fri with Nick C on Peak Lime but after Monday weather crapped out. Similar plan this week and weather looks good. Probably have two sessions on Ben’s

[Will Hunt]

M - Got rained on at Brimham. Enjoyed a nice picnic with family and friends under a big roof.

F - Harrogate Wall. A warm up then 5 x routes of 7a or 7a+ flashed. Setting at this wall is consistently very good and often manages to mirror outdoor climbing.

Sa - Took the bab out with Lagers'/TTT old kiddy carrier (thanks guys!). Lunch at Feizor cafe then walked up onto Smearsett Scar and back down. Mite's hands nearly dropped off. Got cold. Mixed reviews from the bab... She very much enjoyed the lemon cake back at the cafe afterwards.

Su - Moughton Nab finishing off guidebook stuff. 6 routes up to 6c+.

[nai]

M rest

T fingers, shoulders and intensive core. Fingers seemed to be operating at about 90%, wondered if that's due to stepping up the intensity of the PE work?

W PE on fingerboard and core volume

Th rest

F - Having spent the morning teasing tt that his best chance of dry rock today was Minus Ten I headed there on a whim vaguely remembering that I once thought I could possibly do Zippy's if it was cooler than it was on that particular day.  It was cool but I couldn't touch it, or, as usual, anything else other than the soft 6C+ that uses Lucian's Undercut.  tt wisely changed his plans to Saturday.

10x10s hangs back home
Intensive Core
Some shoulders

Nipper came home from school and said she wanted to go the wall, so mini works for 1.5 hours.

S PE fingerboard, had to cut 3rd set short when a strange twang developed in my left arm every time I pulled on. Volume core

S nowt

Bit cautious abouth the knee this week. Actually felt better for climbing on it on Friday but wasn't so good for a combination of walking and sitting on Saturday.

[yetix]

M: font, ticked Graviton and Jet Set
T: quick attempt at going around the blue circuit at Bas Cuvier before my flight home.
W: rest
T: slowly building up the max hangs on the fingerboard, managed to get upto +17.5kg for 5sx3, felt okay under static load but still feels far from okay. Also did bench press, dips, front flies on rings and some forearm antagonist work.
F: rest
S: went to St Bees, forgot my chalk, managed to do Undercooke but didn't get to try much else. Went to Woodwell on the way back, repeated crushinator stand and then tried the sit into it, dropped going for the last hard move a few times, should go soon.
S: went to Milestones, tried to repeat Harvey Oswald, felt hard despite feeling not bad last time, moves to the sit and pit traverse also felt harder now. Managed to scrape the barrel and do Ping! Though. Briefly tried Regeneration at Gallt yr Ogof, did the second two moves but the first felt nails (I guess I was pretty spanked though, and it's probably the reason it gets 7b?)

[monkoffunk]

STG - More volume: Climb 10 routes 7a-7c+ by end June (2/10)
Strength/roof bouldering training
Plan Spring Font trip
Maintain weight ~74kg
MTG - Complete as much from ever growing Font tick list as can.
Portland Font 7A+/B from unfinished list, autumn
LTG - 7C

M - Rest!

T - Portland. Not the Cuttings! Forearms so tender though, one day rest not enough. Worked Zinc, good links, will go quick. One of the best routes I’ve ever tried so psyched to just climb the moves, I’ll do this more than once for sure. Worked moves on Shape Shifter. One pretty hard move. Actually thought moves really cool once I stopped eliminating holds like a eejit. Tried to tick off Victims of Fashion. Spectacular failure, began to loose peripheral vision in my right eye. Unsure why but seems better now so all good. Thought seemed like a good time to call it a day.

W - Rest

T- Long day much needed double rest day.

F - Heading to Lukworth for wedding. Tried to sneak in a cheeky finger board session, got as far as 5 pull ups to warm up before wife home and had to leave.

S - Managed to fit in a little improvised session on a landing above the stairs in the place we were staying. Flat edge basically. Few sort of French one armers, more up than have prev managed, some frechies little core etc. 

Big ald family wedding with the usual excesses

S - Rest.

[user deactivated]

Hi guys anyone object to me joining in Power Club this week? Be keen to see if it helps with the rehabilitation

[nai]

Hi guys anyone object to me joining in Power Club this week? Be keen to see if it helps with the rehabilitation

A capital idea.

[Coops_13]

M - W: Rest

T: Spot Denver. Took it relatively easy testing finger, still not up for hard crimping but could achieve a good amount of stuff. Jugs irritate it the most… Did some more techy problems and finished with some stretching

F:

S: Clear Creek Canyon bouldering. Warmed up and got on Mavericks V5, nails for the grade but so so good. Scary top-out, was v happy to do it. Went bush-whacking for an hour to try and find some boulders - ended up not being worth it. Flashed Bacterial V5 before trying a harder variation. Finger OK up to then but then I re-tweaked it Video of Mavericks below:


Going to rest up for a couple of weeks to try and get finger better...

[user deactivated]

Power Club.

STG- lose 1/2 stone, font 7C on the lime, French 8a
MTG- sort work life balance, start training harder, French 8a+, consolidate at 7C
LTG- Get back on my project, maintain fitness, French 8b and font 8A

Monday- family day
Tuesday- rest
Wednesday- 20 minutes board sesh
Thursday- rest
Friday- 20 minutes board session
Saturday- walk from rubicon to Tor and back. Met Stu under bens and fondled the holds- greasy
Sunday- encouraged to go to Moat so a friend could tick the crag. Bumped into TobyD and AndyF 
20 odd people 3 dogs, kids, and blazing sun. Resisted urge to wade out into the river moaning like a zombie.

[Murph]

Good luck with the knee rehab Ian.

M-kids session at Burbage. Nice day out. Didn’t climb anything much.
Evening 40 minute session at works. Warmed up and HC max hang session incl 2 or 3 reps of +25kgs on the BM smalls. Ace.
T-
W-
T-works session about 20 blacks (5+/6A) then a repeat of Monday’s fb session.
F-Physio for hamstring. It’s still knackered though. No running or left heel hooks for me.
S-Burbage West getting my head kicked in by True Git. Apparently a famous climber who will remain nameless hasn’t done it because it’s too hard. It’s nails. No on-line videos of anyone doing it “from the break” as per description. Evening works potter with mrs.
S-kids session at plantation. Wasn’t really trying anything but had a look at Honorary Caley 7A. It is most definitely not my sort of thing. High, thin, eliminatey. Thanks for the pointer anyway TTT but the arete was hard/scary enough for me on my own with 1 pad. Lots of pads under hourglass though and on about my sixth attempt I was finally brave enough to reach up for the jug rather than drop off. Fun. Good to get it done but much better was my wife flashing it after pretty much being bullied to put her shoes on.  Wasn’t brave for glass hour though - apparently you are supposed to go banzai and get it done. Not go chicken and drop off. Oh well next time.

Also repeated Zippy’s Traverse 7B in a oner. Again. Textbook easy-for-the-grade material this. It’s a bit knacky I suppose but once learnt it goes every time. I don’t think there’s a hard move on it. 6B. Certainly easier than slot sit down next door “dyno up to thin flake” which I would be surprised if anyone has done at 6B. Anyone?

Yes it really is all about grades.

[nai]

Power Club.

STG- lose 1/2 stone, font 7C on the lime, French 8a
MTG- sort work life balance, start training harder, French 8a+, consolidate at 7C
LTG- Get back on my project, maintain fitness, French 8b and font 8A

Monday- family day
Tuesday- rest
Wednesday- 20 minutes board sesh
Thursday- rest
Friday- 20 minutes board session
Saturday- walk from rubicon to Tor and back. Met Stu under bens and fondled the holds- greasy
Sunday- encouraged to go to Moat so a friend could tick the crag. Bumped into TobyD and AndyF 
20 odd people 3 dogs, kids, and blazing sun. Resisted urge to wade out into the river moaning like a zombie.

Do we now have to guess the style of the reglaur poster you've copied?

[jwi]

Goal: Getting fit for trip to Waterval Boven in July.

As far as I've gathered from looking on videos, every single hold is a full crimp. It is not very steep, and the routes are of medium length (up to 35 m or so), with few hard parts longer than 15 moves.

Tue May 7
Bouldering gym
Crimpy boulders
Campusing on very rounded 10mm hardwood edges. 3 sets. Up to 6 moves as best.
Wed May 8
Hangboard
20 mm half crimp
-14 kg right 10s   -14 kg left 10s
-14 kg right 15s   -14 kg left 15s
-14 kg left   17s   -14 kg right 17s
Thu May 9
Bouldering gym
Boulders from national university comp. Either piss easy or super hard.
Campusing on the rounded 10mm hardwood edges. 3 sets. Up to 5 moves as best.
Sat May 11
Hangboard
20 mm half crimp
-14 kg right 15s   -14 kg left 15s
-10 kg right  10s (hard)   -10 kg left 10s (hard)
-10 kg right  10s (ok)   -10 kg left 10s (ok)
-10 kg right  10s (ok)   -10 kg left 10s (ok)
-10 kg right  10s (hard)   -10 kg left 10s (ok)
Sun May 12
Bouldering Gym
SE 2 circuits of about 90s climbing
2x3x90s: r=3min, R=10min
Pullups, Wide, neutral-wide, neutral narrow
Aveyron river
Paddling downstream 3h. Not training for anything, but made me a bit tired

[nai]

Good luck with the knee rehab Ian.

Cheers, you too with the hamstring

Wasn’t brave for glass hour though - apparently you are supposed to go banzai and get it done. Not go chicken and drop off. Oh well next time.

Lagers describes it as 5B to do the move, 6B to bail.

Also repeated Zippy’s Traverse 7B in a oner. Again. Textbook easy-for-the-grade material this. It’s a bit knacky I suppose but once learnt it goes every time.

Yes it's an easy 7B but it is 7B, but you can repeat any problem well within your ability once you've figured it out.  The problem is figuring it out.  Think you've said in the past that you rarely go to new places preferring to stick with what you know? Maybe you should branch out elsewhere, climb a load of stuff at lower grades, but climb them well not just scrape up them. Keep repeating until they feel easy for the grade.  You're clearly strong enough but maybe need to work on expanding your movement vocabulary, and your belief in it. Then you'll spot the knack more easily and won't be getting shut down on stuff you feel you should be capable of.

[gollum]

 M - Calderdale Way Relay leg 6 with Mrs B. Nice morning out in the countryside near home. Avengers in the afternoon.
Stretching in the evening.

T - Legs session in the morning. Solid on squats and box squats but feel a tweak in my back on the last set so take it steady on deadlifts and just do really slow reps with a light weight followed by a bit of abs and obliques.
Steady treadmill run at lunchtime which feels great and makes me go a bit quicker than I have been doing of late.
Evening session at the Depot. Start with Campusing and am just a little of the mark, although I don feel a bit stiff and won’t be surprised if a cold is on its way. Then do a board session which goes pretty well working on old projects and new ones, but still doing okay at the end of the session which feels like progress in itself.

W - Push day. Start with shoulder press and manage three at 50k which is definitely getting back to where I was a year and a bit ago. Think my shoulder may be almost recovered and just have to try hard not to mess it up again. Then do some benches for triples up to 90k with a towel on my chest to stop me from messing pop said shoulder by going to deep with my Mr Tickle arms., before some declines and inclines, finishing with some steady TRX stuff.
A run in the rain before work and an hour chilling at home sets me top for the day.
Evening at the Depot and warm up with edge pulls. Solid on 14 mm edges with 20k added for 5 sets of 3 reps, mixing in some steady TRX.
Project session. Good first problem, fingers feeling good on Steady Intro and get it second go. Don’t quite manage Zoo York replica but pretty solid on sections when I get it right.

T - Travelling to La Palm for the Transvulcania half marathon. A week off climbing but imagine a fair bit of running.

F- Chilled day before the race. Steady 5k in the heat and a bit of stretching.

S - Transvulcania half marathon. Great course but not one for a PB as there are 2000m of climbing over some rugged terrain. Great experience and loved it.
We had people in the half, full and ultra and what a day. We had slips,trips, falls, five visits to medical tents, one visit to hospital, one helicopter ride off the mountain, a finish within one minute of the cut off, bodily fluid issues, heat stress, altitude issues and it was Mrs B’s birthday (she was two of the falls and the hospital visit to clean her chin so they could stitch it.) A memorable day all around.

S - Relaxing. Stretching and a leg stretching recovery jog.

Eventful and satisfying week.

[Duma]

Sounds mental gollum!

Goals: Uninjured, 70kg, 8A in UK, Rocklands in June.

M - nothing, am drive back from Wales, pm in work.

T - TCA, meant to do max hangs as only had an hour, but part of the hard set had been reset so got distracted by that. Managed 8/10, happy enough but don't think I did anything >6C+. 30PU, 20VSit, 10SU, 15PINCU.

W - 30PU, 20VSit, 10SU, 15PINCU.

T -  30PU, 20VSit, 10SU, 15PINCU.

F - Nothing.

S - TCA with daughter, rest of hard set were up, managed to juggle climbing with her and getting a bunch more of them done. Def soft compared to the last lot, but still happy to get all but 3 finished in 2 sessions. All moves done on 2 of the remaining ones too. Drank too much in eve. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU.

S - Beach with daughter and her mate. Not much exercise but knackering. Think got dehydrated as feel like shit today...

Av 70.7 kg. Too heavy, but dehydration assisted 69.7 this morning...

Not much climbing this week, life and work got in the way. Bought new guide for rocklands though, there's so much more in it! Psyched!

[AMorris]

Great weeks training culminating in a superb weekend in North Wales. I wish they could all be like this!

M - A session at the wall seeing how I feel on the harder testpieces. All this fingerboarding seems to be doing wonders, as everything felt pretty reasonable.

T - Rest

W - BM session: One arm half crimp and open hand. Felt pretty strong, and found myself adding a bit of weight on some of the hangs. Encouraging results for early in the season.

T - Wall session again. Doing a few of the more strung out cave problems to get the core going. Nothing interesting.

F - Rest.

S - Up to north wales for a weekend in the glorious weather. My mate was doing the 12km race just outside aber so he dumped me in the pass. Had a warmup on the roadside classics: the edges, johnnys wall, and the various eliminates to the left. Jumped on Diesel Power to reacquaint myself with the moves, and after about 20 minutes, and a bit of trying hard I was somehow stood on top of my first 8A. Even though it went quickly in my second session (although I did try it a few years back when I had no chance in hell), I have had this problem as a very forlorn aim in my climbing since I first saw Chris Davies on it in Stick It years ago, when I was first starting out. I vividly remember thinking "that's a real hard boulder", so it feels like I have kind of done what I set out to do. Having said that it was a classic anticlimax, and I just kind of patted myself on the back and had a custard cream. I also got a tidy flash of Tunnel Wall, which I was glad not to have to try twice, those are some sharp holds. Back to the hut for margaritas in the evening.

S - Bumming around Llanberis in the morning, checking out the boot sale and a great new coffee shop 2 down from Peter's Culinary Extravaganza. Whilst drinking coffee, which was sticking to my tongue it was so strong, we decided it was a Gogarth day and went off to do A Dream of White Horses. We abbed into a busy crag and missed the first belay ledge (incredibly), so ended up doing the low tide pitch to the first belay of Dream. By this point a few more had joined the circus, and someone was on Wen, meaning we were out of luck for that belay. Rather than standing on that thin ledge 40m above the sea for an hour, we decided to just escape direct back to the ab station, which turned out to be a lovely pitch of climbing with a particularly engaging slithery chimney to top out into the world. As it turns out, this may have been a first ascent, since its not in the definitive guide or on UKC. We reckon it must have been done before but not reported. Either way, it can now be found as "Dreaming of a Dream of White Horses" - VS 4c.

Gorgeous weather and a great weekend, possibly the last one I get before submitting my thesis. Looks like I am going to have to find another problem to think about now! Suggestions for what this could be are very welcome and much appreciated.

[nai]

Awesome, good effort

[cheque]

Rehab Diaries Week Thirty-eight

STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Grit Trad list (16 14/20 remain), onsighting HVS/ low 6s by end of September.

M- Covered this last week.

T- Rest.

W- Exercise bike in the gym. Increased the levels as usual.

T&F- Rest.

S- Burbage w/ girlfriend, aiming to quickly pick one of the pieces of low-hanging fruit off my list but heavy showers ruled this out. Still, walking around with a rucksack of trad gear was good exercise, the sun was out when it wasn’t raining and the timing of the showers meant that we found shelter each time and didn’t get wet at all!

S- Kinder Downfall, the furthest major venue from a road in the Peak and consequently the least-climbed on- it’s certainly the first time I’ve carried a rope & rack up. Also home to three routes from my list on it’s various crags. Did two of them (the last two HSs  ), Mermaid’s Ridge, a two-pitch route with something for everyone and Great Chimney, a bit of a sandbag, particularly if you can’t bridge the start and spend twenty minutes trying to follow the incorrect line on the BMC guide topo before noticing the far easier, better and more polished climbing out left 

My partner decided to take us on a scenic route down (1:45 and not all downhill) which ended up leading through a wood that’s obviously popular for “wild” camping- three settlements there and two more groups heading up as we progressed down. Pretty depressing the state some people think it’s OK to leave it in- sawn-down trees, permanent fire pits, human waste and litter all over the place. 

Another good week. This list is one of the best climbing ideas I’ve ever had- the guilt-free bumbling is a blast, I’m getting better at trad all the time and getting stronger rehab-wise in the process. Quite pleased I’m getting proper rehab in in the gap between recovering from the weekend and resting for the next one too- the weight sessions I was doing on a Sunday have had to be shelved though as I just can’t combine that with climbing at the weekend and that bit of the gym is way too busy in the after-work slot.

[user deactivated]

Power Club.

STG- lose 1/2 stone, font 7C on the lime, French 8a
MTG- sort work life balance, start training harder, French 8a+, consolidate at 7C
LTG- Get back on my project, maintain fitness, French 8b and font 8A

Monday- family day
Tuesday- rest
Wednesday- 20 minutes board sesh
Thursday- rest
Friday- 20 minutes board session
Saturday- walk from rubicon to Tor and back. Met Stu under bens and fondled the holds- greasy
Sunday- encouraged to go to Moat so a friend could tick the crag. Bumped into TobyD and AndyF 
20 odd people 3 dogs, kids, and blazing sun. Resisted urge to wade out into the river moaning like a zombie.

Do we now have to guess the style of the reglaur poster you've copied?

Not at all ian, it actually happened. I’m trying to repent for my sins and feeling the training psyche. I forgot to say my 2x20 minute board sessions involved Limit Boulders on the 2 minutes. I’m experimenting with ‘extreme rest’ briefly popular in the mid 90’s. Anyone else tried it with good results?

[Will Hunt]

Has somebody turned Dan off and on again?

[36chambers]

STG- lose 1/2 stone, font 7C on the lime, French 8a
MTG- sort work life balance, start training harder, French 8a+, consolidate at 7C
LTG- Get back on my project, maintain fitness, French 8b and font 8A

Bullshit.

[Will Hunt]

I actually think it's a double-bluff. Get everyone psyched about Dan's training programme, promise some sort of Rocky-like montage video of him on a Lattice Board with Randall spraying him down with cold water, then have a big launch party with all of Sheffield's biggest names invited.
The throng gathers. Jerry calls for silence. A hush falls. The video is actually some camera phone footage of Dan's arse, buttocks being prised apart rhythmically to make his ringpiece 'speak'.

"tHe UFCK comMuniTy woUld LIKe To welComE yOu To THE shoW".

Then an hour of him climbing hard-ish trad routes with all the gear pre-placed and the rope round his oh-so-visible nutsack.

It's going to be a triumph.

[spidermonkey09]

M - session at the Climbing Station in Loughborough. Have to say I had a rose tinted view of this wall from my uni days but was left distinctly unimpressed; dingy, dirty and look like it hasn't been updated since I left in 2015. The setting on the circuit board was a bit bouldery but did some reasonable fitness work on it regardless.

T - Max Hangs. Felt a bit tired but glad I did them. First proper session following the Moon protocol (on YouTube). Felt good although had to fight to avoid dropping out of half crimp. Should get better with work.

W - rest.

T - Malham. Really good session. Had a go from the deck but got cold hands and couldn't pull on the holds. Found new foot sequence which should eradicate a few moves though; looking forward to trying this in earnest. Having pulled through the boulder I dogged to the top crux and successfully linked from the undercuts after the shit rest to the top twice in succession. Very pleased and would have been happy with just this in a session tbh. Next go up I linked from kneebars to shit undercut rest with ease which felt great. Didn't recover brilliantly though and failed to do crux moves out of the rest. After sitting on the rope for a while linked from this rest to the top rest where I tried and failed to shake out before falling off the last hard move brutally pumped. Would have been nice to take it to the top from here as would have meant I'd then done the headwall in two, but I was so tired at the end of the session I'm not too fussed. Finished by hammering that section and the cross through move at the top until I could barely close my fist. Determined to wire this section as falling off there doesn't bear thinking about! 

Overall very promising. Headwall felt the best it ever has and don't think I'm all that far from linking it in a oner. Think I'm still a way off doing the boulder from the deck though so need to step up work on that.

S - Attempted to go to Stanage as part of a uni get together/piss up. Got hailed on and rained on but gf managed a route when the sun came out and dried the rock; I didn't!

S - High Neb for the day. Super busy so belayed for much of the day before having a rush of psych when the shade arrived. Some incredibly loud climbers did not aid my mood earlier in the day! Did King Kong E3 before falling off Quietus Right Hand having done the hard work and clipped the cam at the nose  Traverse out was terrifying but tried hard and it was fun. Got some great pictures even if not the tick!

Max hangs tonight and planning a session on the crux boulder tomorrow evening after work. Should also get back Thursday and weekend. Psyched as long as the body holds together!

[andy popp]

Boobs, Andy Popps vert vision/nightmare.

Zippy's vision really, Boobs reclimbed his No Bolts Please, We're British after it lost holds and extended up into the Boo exit (it originally went left into Rave On after the first bulge).

[user deactivated]

You’ve got it wrong Will, although that hellish vision has sparked the interest of the UFCK editorial. A space has recently become available on the team. Slarty will be in contact via Facebook if you like?
Otherwise I’m fully back in the training zone. Duma rightly put it in his recent smite, and this has reoriented my thinking back to a more reasonable less silly perspective.