[Bradders]

Flying out in June, along with every other punter from the Northern Hemisphere presumably, and have recently watched every video showcasing the place known to man. Two dichotomous things strike me;

1. People in said videos repeating a familiar refrain of "wow there's so much rock, as far as the eye can see", as though that's some sort of surprise (sorry, I'm cynical).

2. The same people seemingly climbing the same 10-15 problems in video after video! Things like When the Day Breaks, Splash of Red, Last Day in Paradise, Stalker, Cedar, Hatchling, Tomorrow, Balance, Caroline, Heuco... (same thing with the 8s; Black Shadow, Nutsa, Balance, Vice, Sky, Electric Copper, Meisie, Corazon, etc.).

Of course they all look very good, but not the sort of things where I might be able to enjoy the peace and quiet I normally strive for. And if there's so much rock there must be other things to do! 

Therefore, as I'm far too stingy to shell out £50 for the new guide, please could anyone share some suggestions for good to brilliant problems in the 7s-low 8s (being optimistic) that get a bit less traffic or are a bit out of the way?

Wad points for suggestions I've not seen before in a vid! Thanks in advance!

[abarro81]

I'd have thought that picking areas with no problems you've ever heard of would be the best bet... and whatever you do don't go to Roadside, it'll be a circus. I bet some of the new areas will be quiet, but you'd need to get the new guide...

We had a morning (or maybe an afternoon?) at French side and it was quiet.

[yetix]

See you there in June! I'm hoping to do a mix of 'classics' and finding some hidden gems whilst I'm out there, must be plenty out there like you've suggested given how people describe the place

[Coops_13]

Bradders, you don't need to worry too much I think. When I went a couple of years ago (in June) rarely was a place "too busy". Often each area had the perfect number of people and pads for landings and attempts. Exceptions were on Rhino and a few others. Also rarely were we alone.

Campground sector is a really good spot with loads of classics but there were barely any people there the day I went for some reason?!? Also we left before dawn the day I did the Rhino and we were alone - could be an option if you're allergic to other people 

[T_B]

It's not Font. There just isn't the density of problems in each sector and most of the rock "as far as the eye can see" is shit. You go to an area like the Sassies and there's basically half a dozen brilliant lines on perfect stone and F all else.

I'd be buying new guidebook if I wanted to avoid people. Or, embrace the pad party which will give you access to things like Splash of Red which you wouldn't go near without a ton of em!

[user deactivated]

There’s a reason why it’s hot and all the boulders are ReD Tom. 

[Kingy]

£50! 

[Bradders]

£50!

I know, far too much given I'll almost certainly only use it once. Hoping you can pick it up cheaper over there.

Thanks all, sounds like I might be fretting over nothing. Certainly do want to do the classics but equally will be fun to explore too.

[Kingy]

  at that price I'd try to on sight whatever looked good and bollocks to the grade etc

[SA Chris]

https://www.climbing.co.za/shop/product/rocklands-guidebook-2nd-edition/

Is this the latest? Sure they would post it to your accommodation - based on present ROE this is about £35.

[iwasmexican]

Amphitheatre and Technicolour Dreamcoat are a bit of a hike but worth it for solitude and nice back towards Clan William

[Will Hunt]

I know this is off topic, but is Rocklands actually that good? Presumably it must be the best destination in the world to drag people to the southern tip of Africa, which must surely involve great additional expense and logistical headache?
There's some nice looking lines out there but it doesn't look significantly better than Font or Albarracin or Magic Wood or any of the other big venues.
Is it the appeal of being able to get reasonable connies during what is summer for the northern hemisphere that pulls people in or is it really special in it's own right?

[Duma]

Yes it's that good. It's absolutely miles better than magic or albarracin.

The potential is enormous, but there just isn't roads to most of it.

Font is the only place I've bouldered that's even on the same page, and that has shite weather.

This ignores the cost, enviromental impact, and moral questions...

[Bradders]

I know this is off topic, but is Rocklands actually that good?

That in a sense gets to the heart of my original worry, which it seems is unfounded. I've been to Albarracin twice and loved it, so if Rocklands is much better that's good news!

This ignores the cost, enviromental impact, and moral questions...

I have definitely had to turn off the bit of my brain that says I shouldn't be flying so far for such a trivial and selfish pursuit; very small fry compared to what others get up to and am just grateful that I can!

Amphitheatre and Technicolour Dreamcoat are a bit of a hike but worth it for solitude and nice back towards Clan William

Sweet, Technicolour is on my list already.

https://www.climbing.co.za/shop/product/rocklands-guidebook-2nd-edition/

Is this the latest? Sure they would post it to your accommodation - based on present ROE this is about £35.

Yeah that's the one, good shout!

[user deactivated]

This ignores the cost, enviromental impact, and moral questions...

What R the moral questions?

[monkey boy]

If you go to do Technicolour try Joseph Malbos too, low but great roof climbing, much better than Technicolour in my opinion.

Rocklands is ace, it ain't Font but it's far superior to Magic or Albarracin. It's also pretty cheap compared to how far away it is, the food is great and the backdrops are stunning. Plus CT is a fun town for a day or two or more if you want to climb on the peninsula. The crowds do detract from the appeal for me but that many people go because it's that good. Wads return year after year, that's got to say something about the place. It's a great mix of climbing and holiday.

[Bradders]

Joseph Malbos

Hadn't seen that before but looks brilliant, nice burly roof climbing.

[monkey boy]

Joseph Malbos

Hadn't seen that before but looks brilliant, nice burly roof climbing.

Exactly. It's low but those mushroom like holds are so cool.

[user deactivated]

In ResponSe to The LateSt conCerns oveR GaseouS excreTions and RockLands. our Man On The Ground has Done some SniFfing

   https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/05/10/black-hole-sun-in-pad-party-hell/