[shark]

11.0-3 Average 157.7 down 0.1lb on last week

M. Still ill but getting better

T.Afternoon. Malham Hot and still when we arrived. Shade helped a bit when it arrived but sub optimal. Hung around a bit waiting for it to cool down. Led Appetite and Taking the Space clean without any trauma. Rich Heap joined in on the Oak. Taped my thumb and felt pretty good on the warm up but redpoint goes were pretty poor. Didnt manage to get to do the throw move from ground and had to break out a new pair of Whites. Probablty still getting over last vestiges of latest cold. Finished before Nic S and Paul so went for a pint in the Listers again. Not home till 11pm. Cooler weather on Friday. Decided unless I do really well and get up to top traverse will sack it off and regroup.

W.

T. PM Relapse. Felt really ill. Cancelled going Friday

F. Felt too crappy to even Fingerboard

S. Felt better. PM Good Ergo Edge weighted hangs session - almost matched personal best max scores and did a greater volume of hard hangs.

S.

Sacked off Oak for time being due to lack of psyche - successive illness has knocked stuffing out of me.

Hard decision as I’m light, weather is cooler and teams going up from Sheff. Alcohol has been my friend this week.

Encouraged by Fingerboard session as the last few sessions have been below par. Wasn’t sure whether I’d plateaued or it was due to being ill. Going to persist with same regime for a couple more weeks before switching.

Teaming up with Nick C next week and looking forward to trying some new moves down at Chee Tor.

[tomtom]

Relinquish the Oak Shark....
Come to the dark side...
Feel the burn power...
you know it is your destiny.....

[tomtom]

Its been Frodo week for me this week...

Mon: Frodo Buttress at Anston. Aims to get Nazgul LH finished and work on Frodo. Body disagreed and I just couldnt get set on Nazgul correct. Ended up being a monstor session - working until I was shattered - but found new way to do the penultimate move that had been holding me back. AND did the move three times in a row from stacked pads.

Wed: Back to Frodo - Psyche very high. New beta worked on the last session - raring to go. Body disagreed. I'd probably had 40 hours rest (Mon night  > Weds AM) and I just couldnt make anything stick. It was all a fight - and the move I did three times in a row - at the end of monday nights session I managed once in the whole session. Gutted.

Proper rest on thurs and friday.

Sat: Grit conditions returned - or so it would appear. I suspect the geese were flying back and forth all day and couldnt make their minds up either... Anyway - had to drop MrsTT off at Sheffield station and after the obligatory parting row I met up with Plattsy and Dolly up near Gardoms. Decided to try Birchen edge... Fuck me it was rammed. Looked like 2-3 large groups there - all chuffing and punting away up routes in the shelter from that great cold wind - and in blazing sunshine. it was pleasant but not grit weather there.. Spent a while working MP3 and got all the moves wired - but hands were squirming in the pocket - greasing off slopey edge crimps... so we gave up and headed to Gardoms woods/edge. Played on perfect day start - and didnt get very far (feeling pretty goosed by then). Dolly went home and me and Plattsy went to Bin Ladens cave (is it called that because its so hard to find? :D ). had a good go on this before and failed flapping around getting the top holds.I had a bit of a rest whilst Plattsy had some attempts - and feeling like I should do something put my boots on and did it first go! Bit of an inelegant topout - but great! Plattsy did it soon after. Then watched Plattsy try the promlem on the left side of the bloc - and had a go at this and think its figured out but by then had no beans left for the top move...

Proper day out - felt truly spent afterwards. As MrsTT and the Toddler are away for a few days, I had the house to myself. Had a bath - ate a large curry - had a large G&T and watched Dawn Wall for the first time. Great day and evening.

Su: Ached :D

[monkoffunk]

Get well soon Shark!

STG - Climb Fighting Torque ✅
Plan/train for Spring Font trip
Weight 72-74kg✅
MTG - go to Ansteys✅, go to Font
More volume: Climb 10 routes 7a-7c+ by end June (2/10)
Portland Font 7A+/B from unfinished list, autumn
LTG - 7C

M - Post nights. Got home, fell asleep watching replay of World Cup. Woke up two hours later feeling like death. Forearms don’t exactly ache, but not recovered. Not sure if lack of sleep hindering recovery or over training. Possibly need double rest day?

T - Day off. Woke at 0630 when wife got up for work and somehow also managed to get up. Felt surprisingly ok after four espressos. Rested during the morning, felt good by afternoon. Decided on some hangs rather than wall, low vol high intensity.
3 sets 5 slow pull ups on rock rings to warm up then 10sec hangs bottom BM2000 crimps. At least 3 mins rest or more between.
0kgx1
10kgx3
20kgx1
30kgx4

Last time 25kg felt absolute limit at 73.5kg (98.5kg). 72.9kg today (102.9kg). Good PB.

More yoga in evening.

W - Red spider. Comp wall. A little at limit with lots of rest. Finishing strong. Some weirdness too that I’m not normally good at. Yoga at home.

T - Rest. 71.6kg. Good PB.

F - Session 16. Chilled out morning at home with two hours extra sleep. Focused on non climbing matters. Arrived on Portland in drizzle, walked to crag around 1530 in the rain. Sat in the little sheltered cove drinking coffee until James arrived. Rain was blowing over crag so stuck the clips in. Warm up go next, not intending to try hard, but getting right up to crux anyway feeling very good.

Rested for about half an hour before the rain came back more heavily. Decided to give it a go incase the rain failed to pass over as predicted. Got to rest feeling totally fresh, and up to the top of the shield. Shook out and did cross under move. Felt stronger than ever. Proper flow through the next few moves to the jug and then up to the second rest easily. Forced myself to stay here a bit despite the seemingly increasing amount of rainfall. Knew the top of the crag would now be wet, so changed sequence and clipped the chains from the pinch below the top, before a token match on the wet holds.

Biggest fight for me so far over. Been an awesome journey and definitely makes me more psyched for more. Been the full value on this, from not being able to do the individual moves to ripping off the crux hold the day I did them for the first time. Fully inverted falls and punching myself in the face pinging off the undercuts. I have a scar still visible on my right arm from where I got the skin caught in a quick draw lowering off a couple of years ago and rope burn on the left. It’s not the hardest thing in the world, but it’s good to put it to bed. Followed it up in excellent style by failing to redpoint the 7a next to it. Properly excellent.

I can’t really remember doing the moves through the crux, but at least I have the best ever sport climbing video ever ever made, which anyone can use for beta if they so desire:

May need to excuse some language again, the crag was empty of other climbers and locals.

S - Anstey’s cove. Machine Gun Funk 7a+ to warm up, clips in then first redpoint, (tried at end of day once in 2017). Very fun. Then tried Avenged, could do all the moves ok but on only redpoint attempt of day I got cramp in my forearms so bad that my fingers clamped down against my palm and I had to stop to prise them off. Need to nail the recovery for Sunday.

S - Pretty wrecked feeling, tender forearms. Anstey’s with Empire wall in shade. 6b to warm up which was great; felt amazing afterwards. Quick work go up Avenged, all moves straightforward in isolation but felt pretty not amazing very quickly. Hour rest and one redpoint go. Pushed it right to the limit, tried really fucking hard, but off at start of crux sequence. Such a fun route, can’t wait to get back on this.

Went down to More Steam Bigger Women, for change of angle. Managed the most shambolic redpoint after a few goes, felt properly hard with lats and shoulders spasming and cramping. Was worried that might spit me off, but alright in the end!

Much needed yoga and stretching in eve.


Very satisfying few days, nice to get Fighting Torque done and loads more climbing. Psyched to rewrite some new goals now and get back on it!

[Yossarian]

Bravo!

[Wood FT]

Well done Monk.

Good to see Empire wall psyche, the Berlin sector of Devon.

[monkoffunk]

Cheers!

Love Empire wall, Empire has to be the best 7b I’ve done.

[tomtom]

Nice one MoF!

[yetix]

M: rest
T: rest
W: body weight fingerboarding, finger felt okay
T: rest
F: arrived in font
S: font wet so forced rest!
S: managed to send Beetlejuice in the morning and Retour aux Sources later on, not bad considering my finger was v sore maybe a week ago!

[Murph]

Get in monk! 

[Murph]

M- jog to work 10k. Seemed to be going ok. Stretches in evening.
T - fingerboard max hangs. Still committed to working on the Half Crimp, and can really see it coming on. This time 24, 32, 40kg hangs on the BM medium slots were fine. Then the 24kg hangs on BM smalls were the best yet - very nearly managed 3 reps of 10s but just fell short - on the first rep in fact, so it sort of went 9.5s, 10s, 10s. With the last hang being the easiest. Sort of mind over matter with these hangs, there is a point st which you warm up to them and “connect” with the practice. I don’t know if this just sounds bollocks but there’s something going on.
W- 5k run/jog. Curbar session all by myself. I was there 4:30-7:30 and didn’t see a soul. This is a beautiful part of the world and I had it to my self for 3 hours. Amazing really, we are all so lucky to have access to this sort of thing.
The climbing - quickly repeated bad lip with no problems in new shoes that fit amazingly well (women’s Scarpa VS!). Then set about trying to figure out Drop Your Weapons. Well I can understand why it only has a couple of ticks in the logbook. The thing involves magic. It was way beyond me and total respect to r-man for thinking it up let alone doing it.
Moved onto Early Doors to put this long term nemesis to bed. For an hour and a half I sieged away. Dropping from that left hand pinch repeatedly. Getting there wasn’t a problem but figuring out how to commit to the move above was - to slap, to change feet, to donkey mark the span. Why would it not go? Was it the block behind you, the reach itself, was the move too hard? I just didn’t know. Each time I dropped off the top it wasn’t the failure of not being able to do. It was the failure of not being able to try. Damn. Climbing is hard.
T-ran into work 10k. In hindsight this was quite stupid. I do a lot of stupid things it seems. I ran the day before and promised myself I wouldn’t do two days running on the trot. I also spent best part of two hours heel hooking the day before which tires the hamstrings out.
F-kettlebell routine. First time in ages. More hamstring fatigue. Madness!
Max hangs. Half Crimp. Best session yet. Best fingerboard session of the year. Every hang felt good or great. Every increase in weight felt easier than expected. Three solid half crimp hangs with +24kgs for 10s on BM small holds. Fingers at 90. Could have gone harder. Amazing.
Stretches and some deep lacrosse ball torture of the hamstring.
S- no running. Kettlebells again though. Felt better than day before. More stretches.
S- brief pass to Curbar again. Busy this time. Warmed up on trackside block but didn’t feel up to doing trackside. Hamstring hurt on strawberries. And on the traverse round the back. In two minds really about sacking it off but I was there so went up to the pit again. Couple of others were there so I had someone to spot, just psychological really. But that might help I thought. First go on ED was a false start. Second go wasn’t much better. Really wasn’t sure that the heel hooking start moves and high heel mid move were a good idea for my hamstring. Said I’d have one more go and if that didn’t feel right would give it up. Well the next attempt might well have been the smoothest, most controlled, effortless, flow state, zen, most rock mastery bit of climbing I have ever done. It was utterly casual. All the moves were as if I had done them in my sleep, there was nothing to it at all. What I had been building up as needing some sort of effort to dig deep - to commit to that top move up from the spike - was the most simple reach imaginable. I know it’s only 7A+ and shouldn’t really warrant this wall of text, but the difference between today and four days ago was profound. It felt 6A+ when it went - like I had tapped into some other state. Climbing is amazing like that. Bafflingly hard one day, a warm up the next. Sorry if that sounds like spraying garbage but this was one of those experiences I think we all seek and rarely find. It was a good day in the office.
No video though, was too shy to record with others there.

[gollum]

M- Solid dumbbell press session. Start with 12s up to 30s, followed by decline and incline flys and a bit of shoulder work.
Session at Manchester Depot. Start with some edge pulls on 14 mm with 20k added which feel solid enough although can’t quite manage 5 reps. Then onto a board session on the 50 board. Not really played on this before. Like the nature of the holds and the moves.

T - Pull day. Rack pulls for doubles working up to 165 which feels well within myself. Follow this with a wide range of rows and pull ups.
Depot session in the evening doing Max hangs at up to Bodyweight, which is definitely progress.
Then a campus session which feels a bit tough but get all the sets done. Finish off with a set off 6 problems in 6 minutes for 3 sets which gets the blood pumping. Finish off with a bit of TRX work for core and shoulders.

W - Push day. Heavy bench session. Triples up to 95 followed by declines for doubles and inclined for triples. Bit of TRX followed by dumbbell shoulder presses. Very chuffed as manage to lift the 30s without any pain which I reckon is twelve months since that was possible so definitely recovering in my shoulder, just have to not push too hard and damage it all over again. Finish with isometric fly’s for a drop set which has my chest twitching a fair bit.

T - Steady enough day with a bit of stretching and shoulders at lunchtime.
Evening session at the Depot tick my way through all the new reds except two which both involve double dynos and timing which just don’t suit me, but will stick with it. Flash all the others bar one, so pleased with that.

F - Stretching, core and shoulder work. Otherwise I rest.

S - Session at the Depot. Max Hangs with three sets at Bodyweight and five with 2.5k support. Fingers are getting there.
Then go through six in six for three sets, which gets a decent pump going. Working on any form of endurance is always tough, but fun.

S - Good pull session. Deadlifts for 3 reps to warm up up to 140k. Shrugs, roman chair and rows and then into OAP work. Solid OAP for 3 on both arms, although needed 2k support on LH on later sets. Then do single arm machine pull downs up to 80k for 3 reps, concentrating on not using momentum and using good form, a few locks and some scapular work. Lots of different curls to finish off.

Fitting lots in due to being away for the end of next week. Progress in some areas, just keep grinding

[nai]

Effort MoF

And you too, Murph

[nai]

M rest

T - Rubicon - started on Caviar before it came into the sun but it felt more brutal than usual, obviously need to be semi-battered before getting on it
Press wasn't happening
Convinced myself I was making progress on BSD, tickling the undercut most times but in reality need to try something different.
Went home in a huff

Core - decent progression on Levers

W - Tequila session 2 -
Much better, still didn't manage the bottom wall but it's mostly sorted now.
Decent link from 2nd to 4th, there's a rest here before the thinnest couple of moves on the route but a wet hold meant trying that wasn't an option today.
Have all sections linked rest to rest from the first, almost time to start getting on lead.

Th rest

F - wife and kids going to see some shite at the cinema so had a few hours to kill in the evening
AM 5x5mins LI
Eve - . Bit wet, tempted just to to do a home enduro session but guessed there'd be some lime dry and fancied getting out.  Landed at the Tor and started trying Basher's. Within about five minutes I was at the last move trying to reach the finishing hold and wondering what to try next. Fast forward an hour of not reaching the finishing hold.  Used that heel-toe one time too many and clunk went my left knee, same injury as I did on Bovine seven months ago, not quite as severe luckily but causing some discomfort and might put me out of action fo

Managed some core and shoulders back home but at a reduced intensity

S rest

S Fingerboard PE at around 50% max hang score  one set =  4 x 10 x 7s work, 3rest rest, 1 min between.  Three sets with 15 minutes rest between.
L sits and 3x Floor core circuits.  Tried levers and dragons but either not warm enough or too tired from the PE.

BIt gutted about Friday, not just trolleying my knee/leg/hamstring again but I was miffed not to get the problem having been so close.
Hope to be able to climb on it, more pscyhed than I've been for a while, hadplans to get back on Tequila this week but looks like that might be dashed in several ways

[nai]

No video though, was too shy to record with others there.

Haha, I'm the same. Won't record yourself but will you wear your power tights in front of others?

[Will Hunt]

Tuesday. Hetchell. Love this little crag. Lots of personality. A few nice highballs (Livia and Augustus) and a 7A boulder problem that doesn't get done often (Lurcio's Lip).

Sunday. Moughton Nab. Spent most of the time doing guidebook checking but squeezed in a couple of routes. Nearly carked it when I was scrambling up to the top of the crag to check where the lower offs were on some of the routes and the "very robust jug" in my hand snapped off as I was pulling on it. Fucking limestone!

[user deactivated]

Bank Holiday greetings Power Club aficionados! Under direct consultation from a clandestine itinerant Grit Meister I’ve logged into power club for two reasons. Firstly to refute current speculations that I may have eventually lost the plot! And secondly to ‘whip up’ interest and possibly gain material for the upcoming publication of UFCK. Currently I have absolutely no coherent content. With brief articles revolving around Fiend’s massive Wobbler and guidebook flinging shenanigans at Harston rocks. A critique of the use of ‘for or by’ to indicate an ascent of note worthy proportions (which is best). And a couple of self gratifying thinly disguised arty videos showcasing my own physical and ethical ineptitude’s. Hopefully commentated on by ukb’s own Will Hunt and Tee Stubbs.
Anyway I was wondering if I could do a ‘power club roundup’ sort of a subjective review of the weekly news from you guys? What ya reckons?

[Murph]

Haha, I'm the same. Won't record yourself but will you wear your power tights in front of others?

Haha! Good question!

Wednesday of Woe: no tights, no spotters
Sunday of Send: tights and spotters

I used to be too shy to wear power tights too. But they make so much difference it’s worth looking silly!

[Steve R]

Aims: uninjured, 70kg, all the 8's

M - light river hull run, ~40mins
T- Mad vollies wall pm.  Did a set problem I'd worked a bit last time then best board session so far working through existing probs - nice to not feel feeble, not fade too quickly and finger felt ok, good session.   
W - Rest; knackered and sore. 
T- MV wall pm. did another 'upstairs' set problem previously tried then board.  Felt much worse than Tues, possibly still tired.  Faded fast but set a new problem ~7a+, motivated to try and link next time.   
F- Knackered again, just stretching
S- Stanage plantation.  Hail showers, wind, occasional hot sun with some nice cons in between.  Some easy bouldering and eventually headpointed Common Misconception (potentially 2nd ascent?) after quite a bit of firming up on toppers.
S- New route prospecting at Hen Cloud.  [Can confirm the aesthetically featured wall between b4xs and borstal isn't sufficiently featured to provide holdable grips (for me at least) - people must've looked at this in the past I guess.  b4xs on the left almost something good but loses it towards the top.]

Finger unchanged but, crucially, not worsening. weight down 0.5 kg (if feeling generous) @ 75.5kg

[joeisidle]

Long-time lurker who keeps meaning to start posting on this again;

STG; Keep on top of physio and massaging, get as much bouldering volume (particularly outdoors) as possible without breaking something, explore new stuff on local western peaks grit
MTG; move to the South-west without crashing out of climbing regularly or getting really fat

Monday- have the afternoon off so go up to the Skyline circuit to get some movement mileage and to have the token once-a-year go at Sidepull Wall and some of the 6cs on the buttress right of Drowning Pool. Circuits are nice, repeat a couple of nice 6b arêtes, but get nowhere on Sidepull Wall (again) and conclude once and for all that the 6c stuff at Doxeys is just too reachy.
Tuesday- light shoulder weights, press-ups, massaging and theraband work.
Wednesday- Stoke AW circuits trying new slabs/walls mainly, a little therabanding afterwards
Thursday- Stoke AW circuits trying new slabs/walls mainly, a little therabanding afterwards, follow friends to pub afterwards
Friday- light shoulder weights, press-ups, massaging and theraband work.
Saturday- try some bouldering esoterica using Mirf’s topo for Hen Cloud. Find some of the rock quality/landings to be predictably far from ideal, but impressed by the scope of new 6s and low 7s that can be had with the right pad setup. Do a couple of nice techy 6s in the woods. Head to Macclesfield for drinks with friends.
Sunday- feel worse for wear from the night before and can’t face outdoors with pitiful skin so head to Maccs Substation. Do some nice mid-grade circuit stuff to warm up and try out the board; pleasantly surprised at how pleasant it was (ergonomic finger-friendly holds and good feet options). Theraband work afterwards. 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - farmer's walk, bentover row x10 EMOM.
Tue - rest.
Wed - PE on board, 5x problem 1 (fell at the end of fourth go), complete rest, 5x problem 2 (fell at the end of last go). Ab wheel. Weights.
Thu - lock offs on 14 mm edge 10" x6 x4. Clean and press + overhead walk 10" 5x4. Farmer's walk. Nice.
Fri - rest.
Sat - yoke complex EMOM 3x10 brutal.
Sun - boxing bag focused on speed. Clean and press finisher.

[Yossarian]

2 weeks

M - Wall. Felt a bit weak and heavy, so opted for circuit board. Turned out to be bad idea as immediately opened up split finger slipping on slopey crimp. Taped it up and then went on search for some big hold problems.
T
W
T
F - Wall. Tried some steep prow problems, then quick go on 45 board - rusty and uncoordinated. Circuit board - repeated monday’s skin destruction on same hold. Did 5 laps on 6b+, then 3x8min AeroCap on wall downstairs.
S - Impromptu river Stour kayak trip
S
M - Wall. Much better session on steep prow problems. Flashed some things I wasn’t expecting to. Shoulder felt quite good.
T - Weights / shoulder rehab. KB shoulder press, delt raise, press-ups, etc. Felt pretty good through a bit rusty.
W - Harrisons. Mixture of soloing and shunting. Managed Desperate Dan first go which I was delighted with as it felt really tricky last season. Great afternoon.
T - Same as Tuesday, plus some repeaters / max hangs. Latter were a bit of a struggle.
F - Harrisons again. Similar to Thursday. Did some quality routes and reminded myself that it’s not obligatory to drive for 5 hours to find them.
S - Wall. Decent session working new set put up by the Arch setters. Shoulder felt good initially, but tweaked it somehow. Skin seems to have recovered.
S

One crap week hampered by bad skin and shoulder pain. One brilliant week with lots fitted in. Weight hovering around 89kg so need to remember to eat less. Going to press on with some more sandstone sessions midweek, inc trying some of the harder things. And then get back down SW for some more sport routes asap.

[jwi]

STG. Climb Osmosis or something similar
MTG. Get fit for Waterval Boven in July

Mon. Verdon. Phoebus, 7 pitches, 7a os. Alt lead with better half
Tue. Verdon. Unknown chimney right of Mort a Venise 2 pitches 5b (to recover rope stuck on top). Hellfest, 10 pitches, 7a+ os. Alt lead with better half and Johan
Wed. Verdon. Les deux pieds dans la pas, 5 pitches 7a+. Hung on 2nd 7a+ pitch (The "Brainstorming" pitch). Alt lead with Johan.
Thu. Nothing
Fri. Verdon. La Fete des nerfs, 10 pitches, 7a+ HD. First on the route after rain, no chalk. Three hangs, one on the last pitch due to wetness. Alt lead with Johan.
Sat. Physical. Pullups, pushups, assisted frontlevers. Fingerboarding.
Sun. Verdon. Via Mathis upper part, 8 pitches + a caving expedition, 7a+ os. Alt lead with better half and Johan.

[Coops_13]

Good work MoF, Murph 

M: DBC. Nice to get back here, crazy how quiet it is on a weekday evening, even with all the snow falling outside. Good session, skin still feeling a bit thin though. Grading still seems a bit soft. Flashed a couple of V6-8 boulders and managed to do a V8-9. Really good boulders, had to fight hard to top them. Finished with some PE training and then did romanian deadlifts up to 155lb (sets of 5 reps)

T
W

T: Morrison - Black Hole. Sick place, great to have a hard eliminate venue so close to home. Warmed up on Breashers' Crack V2 before jumping on Helicopter V5. One of the hardest V5s I've done, really beta-intensive. Very good to get it done though tweaked a pulley pretty badly. Gonna take a week off to hopefully heal up

F

S: First visit to RMNP, no climbing this time due to finger. Walked up to Emerald Lake - so much snow there at the moment from car park to lakes. Walked across lakes… Checked out the boulders that I could access, psyched to return in a few weeks.

S

[spidermonkey09]

Get in MoF! Savour the moment.

M- some much needed rest and bicep/forearm rehab after both days on previous weekend.

T - Max hangs benchmarking session. Have settled on 20kg added half crimping a lattice edge as a sensible starting point. Logistics of adding weight without weights touching floor the crux. Will do first proper session of this tomorrow eve.

W- rest.

T- attempted to go to Malham but upon walking in was informed that a young lad had tragically jumped from the top. Went to gordale instead but psych had evaporated.

F- rest and a few pints in evening.

S- Malham. Have decided to just start trying boulder from the ground as I think I try harder doing this when doing a link. Fell off going for third undercut from deck, pulled on at pinch and linked through boulder, kneebars, bird hole and fell off having skipped a clip, totally boxed, gunning for the undercut rest. Massive fall but great soft catch from Scott. Very pleased with this link in full sun. Tried to link top crimpy crux but had no gas left. Refined sequence on this and subsequent go and hammered the last hard move out of the rest up there as I find it difficult and am concerned that unless I get it wired I could definitely fall off there! Good session, felt strong on it and starting to hit positions quickly without much thought. Can feel momentum building on it.

S- went soloing at Burbage. 20 odd routes up to HVS, enjoyable.

Wall session today, Max hangs tomorrow, malham Thursday and in the peak over the weekend. Arms are complaining but manageable, probably good to be away from it this weekend. Another week where I can take note of some progress.

[shark]

Anyway I was wondering if I could do a ‘power club roundup’ sort of a subjective review of the weekly news from you guys? What ya reckons?

Fill your boots. Must include micro and macro aggressions though

[tomtom]

T- attempted to go to Malham but upon walking in was informed that a young lad had tragically jumped from the top. Went to gordale instead but psych had evaporated.

Jeez - that’s proper grim. Puts a lot of what we get up to in perspective.

[shark]

Occasionally on my mid session walk to the top I have the urge to do the same

[tommytwotone]

Goal - that one last new (to me) outdoor Font 7a


Nowt much, apart from Friday, switching over gym memberships having moved offices from one side of Leeds city centre to the other. Hoping this gives me the impetus to get back to regular conditioning / HIIT / cardio / keeping the middle aged spread at bay.


Saturday, took (aged 5) daughter to the Climbing Lab (having taken her younger brother last week I think her nose was well out of joint). Great session, she did loads and was really keen, and I got to climb until I was done in.


Yet again I was somehow the oldest and (one of) the hardest-ticking climbers there. Would pat myself on the back for knocking out 3 or 4 V5-7s in short order but their grading is a bit all over the place so maybe I just picked ones that suited me.


Rest of weekend was a write-off when aforementioned daughter came down with a tummy bug...

[cheque]

Nice work MoF & Murph. You’d benefit from Jerry’s Mastermind book I reckon Murph.

Rehab Diaries Week Thirty-seven

STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Grit Trad list (1716/20 remain), onsighting HVS/ low 6s by end of September.

M- Rest.

T- Dentist in the morning- I need a “reconstructive filling” I had about 18 months ago replaced with a proper crown as it got fucked up underneath it (not brushing my teeth for about a week when I was first in hospital didn’t do them much good!) but first I have to have two weeks without either to let the swelling of my infected gum recede. This made me realise that feeling rundown and getting ill easily for the past month has probably been related to my toothache.

Exercise bike in the gym later- first time for a month. Increased the levels as usual but didn’t feel that bad- fitness has obviously improved in the meantime!

T-F- Rest. Recovery from bike and wanted to save myself for the long weekend.

S- Stanage Plantation, teaching girlfriend to belay- she took pity on me moping about not being able to climb on my own any more and this is a bit of a potential game changer for me. decided not to mess about getting her toproping indoors or anything and got straight into lead belaying on trad.

Climbed up and down a Mod many times teaching her, led a VDiff without speaking to her any more than I would to any other belayer then onsighted an HS (keep in mind that’s still not a trivial thing for me) and it went great. Good afternoon.

S- Filming for the first time in three months. Amazing how much lighter my bag and tripod feel now!

M- Running Hill Pits. Drove over there and my partner was nowhere to be found (it’s not a trivial matter to check whether someone’s at the crag there either!) but luckily a group of other friendly climbers were so I joined in with them.

Led Plumb Line (off my list) ground up- great stuff. Not sure if I’d have onsighted it if I’d have warmed up on something easier first but beggars can’t be choosers! Then dogged the fuck out of an E1 finger crack on second and, as there was a toprope on Weaver’s Wall, had a go at that. I would have saved this for a future onsight in the past (I had a go at soloing it on my only previous visit to the Pits but downclimbed in a bit of a panic when I hit the slopey break...) but bold stuff like this is off the agenda for me now sadly. Anyway, I flashed it but it didn’t feel easy!

Cool BH weekend. Very grateful to find partners yesterday and psyched to get out and do some routes with my other half holding the rope (haven’t taught her to use doubles yet) in future.

The grit trad routes are feeling gradually easier but the crux of them all is getting my left leg up high! Need to work on hamstring-type stretching starting now.

[SA Chris]

M - nothing
T- nothing
W - wall session - strange feeling very light, but very weak at the same time.
T- nothing
F - nothing
S - not much
S - walk to beach with kids.

Post marathon euphoria wearing off. need to find something else to aim for

[Duma]

Goals: Uninjured, 70kg, 8A in UK, Rocklands in June.

M - 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 15PINCU.
T - TCA, Moonboard 90min, did some 7A's then failed dismally on Pure Wood a couple of times. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 15PINCU.
W - TCA, terrible session, still feeling crap from nights. A few undercut bumps on the moonboard were the only thing worth mentioning. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 15PINCU.
T - 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU, 15PINCU.
F - drive to wales. Wander up to crag to check it out but didn't climb.
S - Dinbren. Not expecting much as the burly undercut nature of the climbing doesn't suit me, but had really fun day and didn't climb too badly - Resist and Exist 6b to warm up (in trainers as forgot to bring climbing shoes to wales...) thankfully Ollie then turned up and had a spare pair in my size. Con-Dem-Nation 6c+, Hot Stuff 7a, and The Bandits 7b+, decent flash go on this but messed up a foot swap - went ok second go.
S - Dinbren. No sun and a slight change in the wind direction meant a brutally cold day - not the relaxed Bank Holiday bolt clipping I'd envisioned... Managed Trailer Trash 6b, Gemma's World Direct 6c, Climb High 7a, Traction Trauma 6c+, and then got really cold before failing dismally on flash go on I Punched Judy First 7b+. Couldn't muster the psyche for another go and then got lost amongst all the options and fell off on a tr attempt on Dreadlocks 7a+ (we didn't have any wires for the start). Retreated to the pub to warm up.

Ace weekend despite the cold on Sunday.
Av 70.5kg

[tommytwotone]

Good to hear it's going well Cheque - and you're a brave man roping the girlfriend in on belay duties. You clearly have a very secure relationship!

RE hamstring etc. A smattering of PC regulars are / have picked up tweak recently so I'm sure will be along to give you some pointers. I thought I'd done mine but having had all the usual stretch recommendations have no impact I suspect it's more likely sciatica.

[xelaxela]

Power Club

Goals: Remain Uninjured , 62kg, back to bouldering 7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still OK, 75.7kg, 6C regularly (7A indoors)

M - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
T - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
W - Rain!!! ended up climbing inside again at Blackpool Bouldering Wall again, worked a V6/7 and V7 on the 40° overhang still havent done them and they are the only 2 routes undone from the current set I haven't managed still good session.
T - Rest climbing wall closed for local election counting in the sports centre
F - Rest climbing wall closed for local election counting in the sports centre
S - Craig Y Longridge did 6 new routes good day 
S - Was meant to be another rest day but ended up doing some 3 sets of 10 5kg weighted hanging leg raises plus a set of 10 5kg oblique hanging leg raises either side. that burned but better form than with 10kg added