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The compulsive and excellent Power Club 476 15th-21st April (Read 10225 times)

cheque

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Rehab Diaries Week Thirty-five

STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Grit Trad list (17/20 remain), onsighting HVS/ low 6s by end of September.

M- Rest. As I usually put on Mondays, battered from the day before.

[bT-S-[/b] Had a cold. Didn't feel ill in myself but not being able to breathe thrpough your nose and coughing all the time isn't a great recipe for training.  :(

S- Dovestones Edge (the Chew one) Absolutely brilliant  ;D . Walked in from the Binn Green car park which involves a serious slog straight up to the crag (like the WImberry appraoch but with no path so 40-degree heather bashing  :sick:)- found it easier than my partner did and realised my back didn't hurt when we got to the crag. It was the first anniversary of being wheelchaired outside the hospital and practising my crutching in the open air for the first time.

Led three Hard Severes including the brilliant Nasal Buttress  8). The crag was amazingly clean and, despite no breeze whatsoever it was lovely conditions in the shade.

M- Wimberry. Even better conditions than the prvious day due to a wind across the crag. Carried both ropes and a full rack up there- probably ~15kg with water etc. :strongbench:. Climbing second day on was easier than the last time I tried it (it couldn't be much tougher!) but my calves and feet completely pumped out while smearing and foot-jamming up Route 1 (HS :look:) so needed two goes to do that. Seconded a VS, couldn't even start an HVS then led Bertie's Bugbear, a route that, even after my mate gardened it on abseil and three of us climbed it while cleaning must still be the dirtiest *** route in  the peak by a mile- character building stuff and felt closer to VS than Severe! It's obviously early in the season but it's clear that Wimberry's a crag which is trapped in the people put off by the dirt & vegetation/ gets dirtier and more vegetated/ people get put off by the vegetation/ gets dirtier... cycle which is shocking considering how good it is- in the absence of psyched locals it needs an organised clean-up day really.

Wicked couple of days in the Chew- three routes off my list in three days and lots of exercise & trad practise. Waddling around groaning today!  :lol:

spidermonkey09

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Good effort all , some good bank holiday activity.

M - Fingerboard. Another set of repeaters, still making improvements. Might be time to add a little weight to these, will evaluate after this evenings session.

T - Depot. On the board, went well and felt considerably fitter on the replica I'd set myself the previous week. Did the easy version, the medium version and nearly did it having traversed into it (10 extra moves) several times. Quite pleased with the session, probably need to step it up a bit.

W - rest.

T - Malham after work. Absolutely roasting and poor conditions; forgotten how hard it can feel when not crisp! Felt weak on the boulder but got better as it got cooler and managed my best link yet; from the rest on 7thA to the slap to the tooth. After a short rest linked from lower through the meat of the boulder only to drop it going for the jug; need to hammer this move. Good session after a slow start;getting better on it. Tried to link to bird hole after but tired so came down.

F - rest. Drove to Torridon. Long way but worth it for dinner by the loch in Diabaig.

S - Diabaig. Did Route Two and Black Streak, both stellar. Black Streak in one monster 60m pitch before stripping on rope stretching abseil; felt so good to moving fast and efficiently. Such a good crag; phenomenal rock and what a setting. Fully recommend, worth the drive.

S - Quick hit to do the Pillar (amazing) before driving to Bealach na Ba to do the classic VS Sword of Gideon. Unfortunately it was blowing a gale and dark clouds were massing, and the rock we could see looked like utter choss. I'm sure it isn't up close but it made it hard to be psyched. Parking spot seemed to be a passing place which seemed a dick move on a busy Easter Sunday. Psych was low so after lunch at the top of the pass, allowing the van to cool down, we went back to Torridon and played on the boulders. Gawped at Malcs Arete and fell off Squelch a few times; got scared with one pad! Good effort Coops doing this by yourself. Did some easy problems on lovely rock; great spot and would love to do Malc's at some point.

M - walk up to Seana Mheallan above Torridon. Bit of a grim walk but lovely view on arrival. Rock very interesting, like a sandstone Stanage. Not what you expect in Scotland but if you were local that outcrop style would make a nice change I think. Did a punchy E1 and walked down. Paddled in the river and settled in for the long drive back. BBC Paradise podcast is excellent for those that liked Serial.

This week: will try and do some training this evening before back to Malham Thursday and weekend. Was good to place some wires this weekend and trad climb in Scotland for the first time; psyched to go back!

Yossarian

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Pretty syked by those tights too. The ones I always really wanted were popular circa 1992-3 and had Japanese writing up the side of one leg. They always seemed to appear in Heinz Zak photos.

M - Feeling a bit under the weather still. Took daughter to the wall. Tried the new comp wall set - she loved it, I found everything hard. Then managed to roll ankle jumping off. Hurt a lot - got very worried about plans for rest of the week. Tried BM2000 which I never usually do at the wall. Surprised myself by hanging 45 degree slopers for a few goes between 3 - 10 seconds. YYFY. Limped up to circuit board and did most of new 7a first go.

T - White Spider with daughter. Took a lot of ibuprofen. Tried to exhaust her first, but not that easy any more. Did ok on auto belays, but generally felty heavy and shoulder / ankle pain not exactly conducive to max enthusiasm.

W - Mini repeaters session.

T - Torbryan - Coaching session to (hopefully) diagnose what I need to do to move my sport climbing on a bit. Warmed up on Bedrock 6b+, which was surprisingly technical. Got quite anxious. Failed to flash Mayday 6c - weird high step caught me out and took a few goes to figure out before leading it cleanly. Split a tip in the process. Moved on to Barney Rubble 7a+. Short-term sequence memory was terrible and made a lot of silly mistakes. Came quite close to the tick, but inn the end it was not to be. Skin in a bit of a mess, worn out, etc but a brilliant day. The routes were super high quality - Barney Rubble especially had some wonderful steep juggy sections and all very unUKlike.

F - Popped to wall in the evening as lots planned over weekend. Tried some good new things on the steep prow. Pretty fatigued.

S - Massive garden clearance / crap shifting. Worn out.

S - Daughter’s birthday. Cooked enormous meat feast on barbecue. Ate too much. Drank a lot of alcohol free beer. Reminded myself that in previous life I would be looking forward to a 2-day hangover.

Weight hovering around 88-89kg, and need to address this once kids are back at school. Shoulder is still causing problems so need to get organised and sort appointment with physio. Have reread The Kettle’s book and have drawn up list of things to work on, not least route reading / sequence memory. Also going to work hard on route volume outside - sandstone midweek and also get back to Dorset and SW asap for some protracted shunting sessions. Aim is to get back down to Devon in a month or two hopefully prepared for some quality goes on Empire at Ansteys.

Smith42

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M – Gym, legs and chest.   

T – Tried to do a double work out, max hangs at lunchtime but was really pushed for time and one of my A2 pulleys didn’t thank me for pathetic rushed warm up.  Wanted to work An-Cap in evening but did some aerobic stuff instead as finger pulley felt odd.

W – Finger still felt a little off so did another light aerobic session instead. 

Th – Yoga.  Thought I’d give it a try.

F - Trollers Gill, warmed up on sunny side then on sighted a 6c+ that was quite hard to read then realised after reading guide I had gone too direct.  Dogged up BTB Smouldering Globules Of Lust 7c to work, managed to unravel start and had two RP attempts powering out on a crimp move just before a fairly good shake out.
Sat - Ninety mins of antagonistic and core work out on rings and TRX.
Sun – Trollers again, warmed up on some rubbish 6a+ then BTB up Smouldering Globules Of Lust and got it first RP.  Typical first route nerves!  Got cool time lapse video on insta, see link below.  Belayed girlfriend most of the day then reto flashed Barguest Direct to finish off.

Good week, great to be out on Limestone again, first new 7c for me for couple of years and felt like came together quite quickly. 

Trying not to eat to many cookies or carbohydrates, diet has been better, it’s helping increasing protein intake even if I have to result to protein shakes.   Think the odd feeling in my finger is just a reminder to keep doing antagonistic and supporting work to cope with increased finger strength from Max Hangs.

https://instagram.com/p/BwiCislD8HE/
« Last Edit: April 23, 2019, 03:19:11 pm by Smith42 »

Coops_13

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Gawped at Malcs Arete and fell off Squelch a few times; got scared with one pad! Good effort Coops doing this by yourself.
Haha, I was not by myself! Although she's small, you can just make out my gf spotting in the video of me - makes all the difference. It is such a sick place:


Moved on to Barney Rubble 7a+. Short-term sequence memory was terrible and made a lot of silly mistakes. Came quite close to the tick, but inn the end it was not to be. Skin in a bit of a mess, worn out, etc but a brilliant day. The routes were super high quality - Barney Rubble especially had some wonderful steep juggy sections and all very unUKlike.
Yes! This is one of my favourite routes in UK

tomtom

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S - Daughter’s birthday. Cooked enormous meat feast on barbecue. Ate too much. Drank a lot of alcohol free beer. Reminded myself that in previous life I would be looking forward to a 2-day hangover.

(thumbsup emoticon that seems to be missing!)

SA Chris

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classic VS Sword of Gideon.
 

Seana Mheallan


It's always blowing a hoolie up there. Was bright and sunnywhen we did it, but I nearly got blown off the traverse at the top. It's an obvious clean buttress, way cleaner than the rest of the routes (which look a bit crap), the first pitch is a bit of a non-entity, but worth it for the rest of the route.

Seana Mheallan gets called Sienna Miller as no-one can pronounce it properly. Boulders at the bottom of the pass are worth it for a quick hit too.

spidermonkey09

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Haha, I was not by myself! Although she's small, you can just make out my gf spotting in the video of me - makes all the difference. It is such a sick place:


I had a spot too, but didn't fancy those slopers in sweaty conditions! Good effort regardless, its a big chunk of rock with one pad under you. I didn't know the jump start was a thing so was doing it from that low jug at the back which on reflection seems to be the sit start. Oh well, another thing to go back for! Thought the f5 thing on the back was glorious too.

Fiend

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I did Squelch completely on my own but didn't do the eliminate right-hand finish which might have helped matters, as was it being bleak winter-time...

Teaboy

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S - Diabaig. Did Route Two and Black Streak, both stellar. Black Streak in one monster 60m pitch before stripping on rope stretching abseil; felt so good to moving fast and efficiently. Such a good crag; phenomenal rock and what a setting. Fully recommend, worth the drive.

S - Quick hit to do the Pillar (amazing)

How did the Pillar compare to Route Two? I was there last week and did the former before rain stopped play but someone at the crag told me they found the Pillar easier of the two.

SA Chris

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Not done The Pillar, but I know some people don't like some of the balancy scoops on Route 2 (such a demeaning name).

GazM

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I did Squelch completely on my own but didn't do the eliminate right-hand finish which might have helped matters, as was it being bleak winter-time...
What's the eliminate right-hand finish Fiend?

spidermonkey09

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How did the Pillar compare to Route Two? I was there last week and did the former before rain stopped play but someone at the crag told me they found the Pillar easier of the two.

I'd say the Pillar is a pretty steady E2, would be E1 with a bit more kit or if the kit there was was a bit bigger (nothing bigger than rock 4 from about 1/3 height I don't think). The crux for me was a committing sequence on small crimps leaving a juggy rail with some average hard to place kit in. Its a fairly brief sequence but I did have to pull down and the next gear is a fair way up. I think Route 2 is pretty chunky at HVS, that second pitch is hard, but its quite short lived difficulties and the gear is stonking. Don't think that pitch is far off 5b so same tech grade as the Pillar perhaps. Both amazing! Shame Allan Austin couldn't think of some better names for his routes on the main face...

Fiend

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Gaz, the one where you ignore the good sidepulls just left.

I.e. not the traditional version I do at 0:46 here:




The Pillar is E1.5 boldness plus E1.5 sustainedness and thus spot on for the grade.

xelaxela

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Power Club

Goals: Remain Uninjured , 62kg, back to bouldering 7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still OK, 76.5kg, 6C regularly (7A indoors)

M - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
T - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
W - outdoor bouldering second time this year to Craig-Y-Longridge. again got about 2 hours before it went dark. conditions weren't bad, still bumbling about on 5 - 6B's.
T - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
F - Craig-Y in the morning, was nice to see the problems in daylight. Tried Pump till you jump without the top edge, it felt miles to the top, I also worked the start to Big Marine, managed to get the first move consistently and the  second a couple of times but then had to leave.
S - Rest
S - Rest

Duma

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Goals: Remain Uninjured , 62kg, back to bouldering 7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still OK, 76.5kg, 6C regularly (7A indoors)

Reckon if you manage goal 2 then goals 1 and 3 will pretty much take care of themselves!

xelaxela

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Goals: Remain Uninjured , 62kg, back to bouldering 7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still OK, 76.5kg, 6C regularly (7A indoors)

Reckon if you manage goal 2 then goals 1 and 3 will pretty much take care of themselves!

Thanks, I have noticed a fair amount of improvement since June, when I was able to climb again. I was 93.4 kg's then

Duma

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That's impressive since June, well done!

Yossarian

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Thanks, I have noticed a fair amount of improvement since June, when I was able to climb again. I was 93.4 kg's then

Amazing work - well done. I was / am in a similar boat. 110kg to just under 90kg, with another 10 to go.

Best of luck with pushing onwards!

AMorris

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Glorious weather last week on the west coast has allowed me to continue my search for chossy delights!

M - Went to the wall for the first time in a while. Felt much stronger from only hanging and getting out on rock. Managed to get up my jenga blocks testpiece on the panel, and a few other hard ones, as well as make progress on some projects. Felt good!

T - Well needed rest day from the previous weeks training.

W - Standard hang session. One arm half crimp and front three dragging on the low rung, with a bunch of two arm front two (a weakness of mine) thrown in.

T - Back to Aberystwyth north beach for some chossy action. Managed to tidy up a harder, higher version of the FA I did l the week before, giving birth to DEET. I reckoned around 7B ish with some really nice moves albeit on snappy rock. Also did a harder eliminate version of this.

F - Back down to the beach below Allt-Wen, south of aber, for some more development. I decided to approach some of the rock that I had seen but walked past last time, and found a whole bunch of new problems. In particular a few steep board-style problems on a steep bit of rock under a suspiciously landslidey looking bluff. I managed to grab a few really nice ascents of some high 6's and low 7's before the hill came down on my head. Also made theoretical (rather than practical) progress on a hard lip traverse project on dog whelk roof, but the slopers where just way too warm to actually execute any of the moves. Lovely day in the sun.

S - Back to north beach for some drinks and a bit of climbing with a friend. Cruised all my problems down there this time then retired to the pub after we ran out of beer. Got some funny looks ordering a pint in a busy pub with a pad on my back.

S - Ysgo next day, so rest.

Great week for getting out and pulling bits of suspicious rock off. Loving this hard choss at the moment.
Shameless plug of a shameless page: I am trying to document all the western biscuit I climb on my instagram if anyone is interested https://www.instagram.com/arfavmo/

GazM

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Gaz, the one where you ignore the good sidepulls just left.

I.e. not the traditional version I do at 0:46 here:



Traditional version! In all the times I've done it it's never even crossed my mind to go round the arete and finish that way and in 10 years of bouldering in the glen I've never seen anyone else go that way either.  To me it's always felt totally natural to keep straight on up the right side of the arete, the holds are all there.  At least now I've got something new to do on my next visit!

Fiend

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Just climbing the line by the easiest logical method using the holds in reach (an outdated concept in bouldering, I know).... I think it's usually described with the sloper finish but #whatever.

shark

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Just climbing the line by the easiest logical method using the holds in reach (an outdated concept in bouldering, I know).... I think it's usually described with the sloper finish but #whatever.

On the contrary - it is eliminates and rules that have gone out of fashion

Coops_13

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Ah, I thought the sloper scrap at the top sweetened the prize, your way looks good too though :)

Fiend

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That's an interesting concept sharkling, but I'm sure you used the wrong side of the pebble when you posted it - back around.

 

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