posted by: mike date: 2002-08-16 time: 08:04:32 reply x
Ok, let's have some opinions: Crescent Arete - V2 Banana Finger - V2 Green Traverse - V5 Gorilla Warfare - V5 Pock - V1
postId: 256 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-16 time: 08:13:09 reply x
In reply to post 254: Pebble Arete - V2 Bullworker - V3
postId: 258 posted by: dave date: 2002-08-16 time: 08:21:17 reply x
In reply to post 254: I would say GT is harder than V5, personally i think its about V6/7 since its harder than, say new jerusalem or dolphin belly slap. Some others: Tierdrop - V7 Pockman - V2 Bigger Tail - V7 Weedkiller traverse V7/8?? Ape Drape V6 Nicotine Stain V5? Just rough guesses obviously
postId: 260 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-16 time: 08:32:59 reply x
In reply to post 258: Is Pockman the one that goes up the Elephant Bum on pockets - that's the one I reckoned was V1, I may be getting confused. Not done New J or Dolphin, but I'd heard that Lisa Rands rated Green Traverse as V5. I'm going off memory really, as I can't do the Green Traverse now after my layoff, although I used to find it easy. Getting old you see! Brad's Arete - V8 ? or is it 6? That's the hardest thing I've done recently. I've heard it's 7b which would be V7 but it doesn't seem that hard....but then they never do when you do them, do they?
postId: 262 posted by: dave date: 2002-08-16 time: 08:43:34 reply x
In reply to post 260: we tried brad's arete the other week and found it pretty nails. None of us did it. Maybe its a different story in winter?.... I could imagine it feeling easy once you've done it, but of course problems shoud be graded for how hard it is to first do them, i.e. if theres a "trick" you have to find out then that should be reflected in the grade.
postId: 263 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-16 time: 08:47:58 reply x
In reply to post 262: Yeah, not really a summer problem at all - when we first did it (see the video) it was freeeezing! After you get the gastonny sloper thing with your right hand when you pop off the floor, the crux is to rock across and then get the little pocket/crimp thing. Cunning Beta? - Feel with your right toe (which is normally in space doing nothing) and drag it behind the low flake. Makes the crux move way easier and less of a barn door. Once you've rock across and are in balance, the top moves are easy (unless you're very short).
postId: 264 posted by: dave date: 2002-08-16 time: 08:59:15 reply x
In reply to post 263: I think thats the way we were trying it. Haven't seen the video since my machine at work doesn't have quicktime. Any chance of putting vides on in 2 formats like on climbxmedia?? like one in windowsmedia or flash (not Real cos i ain't got that neither...).
postId: 267 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-16 time: 10:45:01 reply x
In reply to post 264: Possibly - the new version of Flash has much better video support, and the new version of Premiere has direct mpeg support. Got the Flash, but not Premiere yet but it would open them up for more people. Yet another thing to add to the list.
postId: 268 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-16 time: 11:08:09 reply x
In reply to post 260: Mike, you're confusing me now. Surely 7b is V8 and 7a+ is V7? New J is a bad benchmark, because it is very height dependant. I showed it to Ray Wood recently and he pissed it first go, reckoning V4/5 in N Wales, but I know shorter climbers who swear it is V6/7. Unfortunately they are both right. I think GT is probably V6 for the full version, but then we always had this perverse rule banning heelhooks on the slopey starting section, so maybe V5 is correct, bearing in mind that it is traditonal to give harsh grades to popular test pieces. The classic 7as at Bas Cuvier are certainly hard for the grade, or is that just because of the horrendous polish? Cheers, Simon.
postId: 269 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-16 time: 11:21:02 reply x
In reply to post 268: Oops, I put V8 on the first bit of my post, then V7 on the second, sorry for the confusion. 7b = V8 I always mean the short version when I mention the 'Green Traverse', as the long version is also known as 'Dope on a Slope' (despite the glaring misprint in the Rockfax guide where they are reversed) - I meant V5 for the short version, so you're probably right in thinking V6 for the full one. I've heard V7 for New J too, if you're short - see Yorkshiregrit.com. As an aside, a mate has just asked me about Porth Ysgo on your own - I said "no, spotter essential" - what do you reckon?
postId: 270 posted by: dave date: 2002-08-16 time: 11:36:54 reply x
In reply to post 269: As i understand... Dope On A Slope = short, starting on jugs "A" Full Green Traverse = long, starting om slopey lip. Thus my comments above about GT being V6/7 are for the long one. DOAS is fair B7 whatever that equates to. As for NJ i flashed it but then I am 6'1. I recon there are plantly of easier problems to do at PY without a spotter.
postId: 271 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-16 time: 12:02:57 reply x
In reply to post 270: The Peak Rockfax Bouldering guide prints it the wrong way round. Green Traverse is the short version starting from the "A" jugs. DOAS is the long version, hence the "slope" in the name. They printed the names the wrong way round (and the grades I think - how could the short one be easier!?) - has caused a lot of confusion. See
http://www.rockfax.com/peak_bouldering/update.html and they even admit it! Mate wants to try "incredible shaking man" but I can't remember what the landing was like. I've only been once and there was some stuff that was fine, but I thought the landings were a bit gnarly on a lot of the stuff.
postId: 309 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-20 time: 14:33:43 reply x
In reply to post 254: deliverance v8+ or west side story v8+ t-crack v8 or blood falls v8 jerry's arete (rhs) v7 or beachball v7 or brad's arete v7 rollin' pat v6 or green traverse v6 chip shop mantle v5 or egg arete (crat) v5
postId: 312 posted by: dave date: 2002-08-20 time: 14:37:36 reply x
In reply to post 309: brad's arete is miles hard than beachball!!!! I think most people consider BB soft for B8 which probably makes it V6 or less.
postId: 314 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-20 time: 14:42:48 reply x
In reply to post 312: brad's arete isn't that hard - the sequence in the ukB video is not the easiest way to do it. same start but using the sloper out right and the same crafty toe hook/scum for the RF will see right - v7 for sure. as for beachball, seemed fair at v7 - but then i thought zaf's problem b10 was v7 as well (beachball took more attempts!)
postId: 315 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-20 time: 14:45:29 reply x
In reply to post 314: Which sequence in the vid - me and Jon both do it differently....or do you mean both sequences?
postId: 316 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-20 time: 14:50:49 reply x
In reply to post 315: i mean grabbing the arete with the RH - as opposed to the sloper our right. barndoor problems are eliminated with the sloper and it can be done in reasonably warm conditions. i'd say benchmark at v7/7a+ and a fine problem. another benchmark 7 is that overhanging arete b8 at burbage west - classic sloper pulling!
postId: 318 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-20 time: 14:54:49 reply x
In reply to post 316: You must have the fingers of a ghecko - I tried using the sloper and found it appalling!
postId: 319 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-20 time: 14:58:54 reply x
In reply to post 318: fingers? more of a shouldery move that one. but the sloper is not that bad - right in the middle between the two really chalked bits is a nice little depression which is more than enough - check it out sometime.
postId: 320 posted by: dave date: 2002-08-20 time: 14:59:56 reply x
In reply to post 316: sorry to be a killjoy again, but that burbage west arete thing is nothing like V7. I thought everyone considered this to be a complete gift at B8. Easier than Beachball. Before you ask, not i'm not talking about using all the big holds on the RHS of the arete. Even starting sitting from the flat holds on down and left and using only the LH wall and just the arete (like the bulletholes, not the jugs round right) its not as hard as, say, The Nose nearby. To compare, go and have a crack at Kindgom Of Rain in the Ogwen valley, which is a good standard V7.
postId: 322 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-20 time: 15:41:25 reply x
In reply to post 320: "its not as hard as, say, The Nose nearby." cross wires - i was talking about the nose (little roof, undercut, slopers). i think v7 is fair for this problem. i suspect the other problem you're talking about is the arete on the same block as westworld - that's about v4.
postId: 326 posted by: dave date: 2002-08-21 time: 08:02:29 reply x
In reply to post 322: Yeah sorry!! - for some reason "overhanging arete" didn't trigger thoughts of the nose! Yes i think the nose is pretty fair for V7, although i suspect some will tell you it is soft - but that doesn't stop all and sundry failing on it every weekend!!!!
postId: 338 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-21 time: 10:42:24 reply x
In reply to post 326: Anyone got an opinion on Trackside?
postId: 339 posted by: dave date: 2002-08-21 time: 10:56:34 reply x
In reply to post 338: If you do it the way DT does in the vid on this very site then its probably fair B8/V7. However if you've got any sense you'll do it the other way in which case its probably V6/5. I think short people find this problem hard, but i think they're just making excuses....... ;¬)
postId: 340 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-21 time: 11:21:51 reply x
In reply to post 339: Thought doing it on the right was a seperate problem? Like the way Dave shows off reaching the top, then using a different hold - poser! I know a short-arse who took years to do this problem!
postId: 341 posted by: dave date: 2002-08-21 time: 11:39:35 reply x
In reply to post 340: No i don't mean climbing it on the other side (B6?) i just mean using a totally different sequence.
postId: 342 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-21 time: 11:50:30 reply x
In reply to post 341: go on then, spill the beans!
postId: 343 posted by: dave date: 2002-08-21 time: 11:58:17 reply x
In reply to post 342: alright then. Start as normal with RH on that little crimp undercut in the alcove, and LH on the seam. Don't hold it on the juggy bit, hold it a few inches further up, where there is a pebble, as in:
http://peakgrit.ukclimbing.com/trackside02.jpg then work your RF up to that trangular hold in the corner of the alcove. Here i get a thigh-bar and go straight for the good arete hold with RH. Then you put LF onto the obvious hold on the lower arete. Now drop you RF pull your body/stomach onto the front face towards you LH. Keep thrutching till you can slap for the top again with RH. It also helps when thrutching round if you can cock your RF against the other arete to stabilize you a bit. I have no idea if this works for the short. Un morceau de gâteau!
postId: 344 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-21 time: 12:08:24 reply x
In reply to post 343: Not one for shorts and t-shirt then?! Thigh bar is a good idea - will try it next time I'm there....not for a while after last night's midge-fest!
postId: 362 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-22 time: 13:54:36 reply x
In reply to post 338: what about Piss B9 - seems a little hard for v7 or 8? unless i'm missing some crucial beta
postId: 380 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-23 time: 20:03:54 reply x
In reply to post 309: Was trying Rollin' Pat tonight, and although it was sweaty, I thought it much to hard for B6, so I agree - V6/B8 ish.
postId: 387 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-27 time: 09:15:39 reply x
In reply to post 380: Heart Arete at Eagle Tor - V3. And tried Rollin Pat again with not a lot more joy - desperate last move, or is there a trick?
postId: 391 posted by: dave date: 2002-08-28 time: 10:33:27 reply x
In reply to post 387: what about that undercut thing right of Westworld but just left of the arete?? i always found that desperate for B6 (compared to the arete for example). V6?? any takers??
postId: 398 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-28 time: 16:30:38 reply x
In reply to post 387: v3 is a bit harsh for heart arete - maybe v4? rollin' pat is solid v6/7a - but is that really B8? anyway the last move is not too bad. easier to campus with the right than put your left foot on and go with the left - but much of a muchness really
postId: 399 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-28 time: 16:32:04 reply x
In reply to post 391: the faux westworld problem is tricky - but v5 would be a better grade. certainly a lot harder than the arete though!
postId: 413 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-30 time: 05:47:05 reply x
In reply to post 398:
Heart arete could be V4, but I did it the other day when it was hot and it
felt a lot easier than something like `Trick Arete` at Earl.
Depends if the heelhook is used I think - it`d be much harder without it.
Has anyone done the magnificent looking `Autumn`, Moffat`s problem that
traverses the edges to the left? Much too hard for me (V8+/9), but looks
fantastic.
postId: 417 posted by: dave date: 2002-08-30 time: 07:54:29 reply x
In reply to post 413:
We tried autumn a few months back - it looks hard to get up to the crimps
but OK after that. Unfortunately it was too hot to pull on the tiny holds
without severe pain.
On that same day i tried hart arete and flashed it. I used the heelhook it
seemed pretty obvious. don`t know about the grade, V3/4???
postId: 418 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-30 time: 08:37:20 reply x
In reply to post 417:
The mantle at the end might be hard too - the straight up version `Feel
Good` is V11 for two moves - the mantle must be quite tricky!
Nice problem though, Heart Arete....maybe it`s time for a new V3+ grade ;-)
postId: 420 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-30 time: 10:13:21 reply x
In reply to post 418:
heel hook on heart arete? i just smeared the right foot, pulled on and
then slapped up for the top. seemed harder than v3 to me especially in
the heat as the left sloper was quite slippery. bad sequence by the sound
of it!
postId: 421 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-30 time: 10:15:41 reply x
In reply to post 418:
as for autumn, i had trouble figuring out where it started. do you start
on the chest high crimps almost on heart arete or on the feel good crimps -
would seem to make it a lot easier if you could miss out the early
moves? did the mantle though - not too bad
postId: 422 posted by: dave date: 2002-08-30 time: 10:30:33 reply x
In reply to post 420:
the heel hook is low down on the RHS - do it and you can reach statically
to the top, its almost impossibe to fall off this way.
I assumed autumn started by sort of lungeing/stepping up to the feel-good
crimps, but then i didn`t see these holds almost on HA you speak of.
postId: 424 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-30 time: 11:03:07 reply x
In reply to post 420:
Best way I reckon is:
Left hand on little slopey dish thing, right hand on good low pocket. Step
on with left foot on little smear, then put your right heel in the pocket
just below your right hand.
Then slap right hand up to sloper, move foot into normal position, step up
and reach the top - voila!
Really nice moves.
postId: 425 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-30 time: 11:05:35 reply x
In reply to post 421:
Not exactly sure where the both start - I assumed that feel good went
straight for the top from the two obvious crimps, but autumn traversed
left. There are two other crap crimps at chest height and I assume you can
use these too if you want.
You did the Feel Good mantle? Thought that was the crux, probably wrong
though.
postId: 426 posted by: guest date: 2002-08-30 time: 11:06:50 reply x
In reply to post 422:
yeah - there are some small crimps down and right of the feel good holds.
would be a couple of hard moves to get from there to the FG start holds.
and cheers for the heel hook beta - never even thought of that!
postId: 462 posted by: mike date: 2002-08-30 time: 18:08:44 reply x
In reply to post 426:
Not heard of anyone repeating the left arete of the Autumn wall either -
looks excellent too. Thomas Willenberg gave it V11, but then he gave the
sit-start to Brad`s V11 too, and that`s supposed to be V8+. Mind you, it`s
not like anyone`s repeated his sit-start to Brad Pit as far as I know.
Also, just across to the left is a little arete starting from a big ledge -
anyone know what that is?
postId: 485 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-02 time: 10:16:12 reply x
In reply to post 462:
tried that Mark`s Roof thing at Gardoms in the weekend - what`s that get
on the v scale? seemed like a 7 to me but no doubt that`s too generous.
postId: 486 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-02 time: 10:17:23 reply x
In reply to post 485:
also, what`s that problem a few metres left of piss at higgar tor? its on
an arete with crumbling footholds and i think it might even be in Hard
Grit (with Ben Moon falling off it). any ideas???
postId: 487 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-02 time: 10:21:54 reply x
In reply to post 485:
Mark`s roof is probably V7. Although i wouldn`t know is a can`t do it -
not got big enough arms.
That higgar tor arete thing is given B7 so its probably V5/6 - I don`t
think its very hard, as long as you do it the right way and not the way BM
tries it on HG (tip: he falls off it so it can`t be the right way!!).
postId: 492 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-02 time: 13:02:38 reply x
In reply to post 487:
cheers
postId: 497 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-03 time: 11:24:08 reply x
In reply to post 492:
Jerry`s Traverse (Cratcliffe) anyone? Seems bloody hard for B8.
postId: 498 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-03 time: 11:41:17 reply x
In reply to post 497:
seems like 7b to me - which is v8. unless you have really fat fingers in
which case its probably more like v9 or 10
postId: 499 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-03 time: 11:49:28 reply x
In reply to post 497:
I think if you`ve got big arms and are good at nearly-footless stuff then
you`ll find it easy. Its pretty basic but brutal at the same time. I
haven`t done it my arms aren`t big enough.
Has anyone done Pogles Wood sitting?? if so, whats the consensus V grade??
postId: 501 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-03 time: 13:59:09 reply x
In reply to post 499:
what about that jason`s roof at burbage then? someone told me 8a, others
said 7c. the PB guide gives the standing start B9 but its hard to see how
that could be right. can you use the left arete (ie slapping up it) on
the way to the pocket? finally, what about the direct finish?
postId: 502 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-03 time: 13:59:37 reply x
In reply to post 499:
where is Pogles Wood?
postId: 503 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-03 time: 14:00:33 reply x
In reply to post 425:
>You did the Feel Good mantle? Thought that was the crux, probably wrong
though.
no - the mantle on autumn. not too bad at all.
postId: 504 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-03 time: 14:16:16 reply x
In reply to post 501:
The "B9" from standing uses the arete and pinch to dyno to the pocket. Yes
its soft for B9. Jason`s roof is just from sitting at the back into this
problem. I`ve done tham both and i can`t belive its 8a/V11 cos i can`t
climb 8a. Maybe 7c is more like it?? i don`t know. It`s a brilliant
problem anyhow.
I don`t think that not-using the arete would be much harder, just a
different approach is required.
If you want to see soemthing hard then huffy`s problem the terrace just to
the left is nails - gotta be harder than jason`s roof.
Whoever asked where pogles wood is its the great problem on a block down
from moyers buttress at Gardoms.
postId: 506 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-03 time: 15:27:47 reply x
In reply to post 504:
yeah - that problem - the terrace? - looks HARD. as for jason`s roof,
must try it next time because the standing start didn`t seem so bad. be a
nice 8a tick!
postId: 521 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-05 time: 09:29:45 reply x
In reply to post 503:
>no - the mantle on autumn. not too bad at all.
Does Autumn mantle using the arete, or directly above the good crimps at
the end of the traverse?
postId: 528 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-05 time: 10:47:41 reply x
In reply to post 521:
i went straight up from the last set of crimps - slap, grind and push!
postId: 529 posted by: mike date: 2002-09-05 time: 10:49:50 reply x
In reply to post 528:
So, how the hell did you get to the crimps without doing the rest of the
problem, or are you extremely tall?
postId: 530 posted by: mike date: 2002-09-05 time: 10:51:02 reply x
In reply to post 528:
So, how the hell did you get to the crimps without doing the rest of the
problem, or are you extremely tall?
postId: 550 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-05 time: 12:50:54 reply x
In reply to post 530:
by employing the world famous powerspot!
