All 3 nuts were behind a large flake that appeared solid at the time of belay construction. Climbing as a 3. When 2 seconds arrived the flake flexed with them hanging on it and all 3 nuts popped out. Belay was well equalised and held on the peg (heart in mouth). We all calmly unweighted the belay...
I fell head first down a 15ft ravine into broken dead wood. My head hit a trunk with caused concussion and vomiting. A stick went into the upper part of my arm which got infected and turned green. I also suffered injuries to my pelvis but am not sure what it is as I cannot be bothered going to hospital
How is Accidents in North American Mountaineering edited / curated? Seems like talking to somebody with experience there would be an obvious thing to do.
Quote from: Muenchener on April 16, 2019, 02:47:57 pmHow is Accidents in North American Mountaineering edited / curated? Seems like talking to somebody with experience there would be an obvious thing to do.Yep, we did that already. We spoke to a number of providers of a similar service. Dougald who runs the US/Canada scheme was particularly useful to talk to, as they've evolved their approach over the years to remove the stats analysis and focus on anecdotal reports as this was found to be a stronger driver of behavioral change. They get about 130 reports or so a year.The Austrians run theirs through part of the Police, it's a large government funded scheme and they now have around 100,000 reports as theirs covers all mountain incidents. Given the country is one big mountain, their approach was never going to be appropriate to follow, so we're closest to the US/Canada model.
- and straight away you realise - don't put all your pro on one flake! stick to bouldering
Do you have a link to the Austrian stuff? I can read German fluently so would be interested.
Nature of the beast I think. You should see some of the guff that gets recorded on our safety system at work.
Unfortunately I think this sort of thing needs to be heavily moderated, otherwise you risk losing the useful stuff in amongst the beginner-stating-the-bleeding-obvious
Quote from: T_B on April 16, 2019, 02:21:49 pmUnfortunately I think this sort of thing needs to be heavily moderated, otherwise you risk losing the useful stuff in amongst the beginner-stating-the-bleeding-obviousI'd disagree with this. If it's a common theme of beginners doing X wrong then you can try and do something about X. I work in the Civil Engineering, specifically a design and build for the past ~5 years. You'd think you wouldn't have to tell someone not to try and warm their hands up using the exhaust gasses from a large (>40 tonne) excavator within the slew radius. If so, you'd be wrong! ...and so many more.
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