[Battered everywhere today, it’s hard to replicate the full body effort of spending five worried minutes fiddling wires whilst wedged awkwardly in a damp niche. Ideas on a (seaside) postcard?
Two weeks worth again...M - Wall. Focused on the new vert / slab set. Finished most of the harder things. Good progress on the last two (both 7B/7B+) but eking out the remaining hard moves might take a while.T - Beastmaker. A few repeaters then max hangs. Managed 5x -18kg / 10sec on both arms, which was my first time in the teens. WT - Wall. Surprisingly fatigued. Ended up doing some foot-on campus sets, and then AeroCap circuits.FS - Wall. Long session with a lot of chat and not much hared pulling. Sore skin with a little split tip. General lack of conviction. Shoulder hurting a bit too.SM - Wall. Skin still sore, so tried to focus on technique / footwork drills.TW - Wall. Shoulder feeling better and energy levels / skin much better generally, so warmed up and then got on the 45 board for the first time in ages. Went through previous probs with not too much trouble and started some new projects. Tried campus board - managed 145 booth sides, but not 146. Did some campusing on various steep problems on the comp wall too.T - Wall again. Felt fresh in the morning, but seemed to fatigue quite quickly once I started. Did some more foot-on campus, 1.30min / 1min rests x 7. Felt like I’d made quite a lot of improvement. FS - Wall. Warm up and then focused on 45 board. Progress on my projects, plus tried 3x others around 6C/7A. The latter were mainly much bigger moves on reasonable edges, whereas I’ve been focusing more on smaller moves / crimps. Quite good progress. Back downstairs for some roof stuff and problem campusing.SShoulder issue seems to have largely resolved itself which is good as it’s been a pain in the arse. Weight has refuted to budge much in the last couple of weeks. After listening to TheKettle’s podcast I decided to experiment with tracking / raising my protein intake. Working on 85kg BW (which I wish I was) this is 135 - 150g per day, and takes some doing. However, this proved extremely interesting when my clicking knees / crepitus (about which my kids have been complaining about over the past 2 months) totally disappeared after the first day of extra protein. It’s made me question the logic of the intermittent fasting approach, as trying to cram down and absorb protein in a restricted window would seem to be sub-optimal, and perhaps this might be related to general lack of recovery over the past few weeks. Going to press on with protein and see what happens...
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on April 08, 2019, 10:55:04 amS - Moughton Nab. Got completely shut down on the 6c Burly in RibblesdaleOh dear, Jim! This does not bode well for Bat Route.
S - Moughton Nab. Got completely shut down on the 6c Burly in Ribblesdale
Quote from: Will Hunt on April 08, 2019, 11:09:15 amQuote from: spidermonkey09 on April 08, 2019, 10:55:04 amS - Moughton Nab. Got completely shut down on the 6c Burly in RibblesdaleOh dear, Jim! This does not bode well for Bat Route.Even Coops flashed it
And Sam Marks. It's comforting to know that a good performance on the Depot 50 board is no match for a <10m tall ladder of jugs.
Quote from: Will Hunt on April 08, 2019, 04:35:52 pmAnd Sam Marks. It's comforting to know that a good performance on the Depot 50 board is no match for a <10m tall ladder of jugs.
Indeed. Such is Sam's great size, the power output he must have been generating to get himself up it must have been huge. I'm surprised that some nuclear launch early warning system didn't go off somewhere.
What was your aim with the intermittent fasting? I have tried it and find it works pretty well because I find it a useful way to restrict over all calories. I don’t think it really has a major metabolic effect that some ascribe to it. So if you have x amount of food you are planning to eat and it’s a struggle to fit it in, you’ll be no worse off if you spread that out starting a bit earlier in the day.
No climbing at all this week. Spent packing, stressing and drinking before leaving the country today. In NY for a few days of work before I make my way to Denver. Doesn’t quite feel real yet...
. S-took 5yr old to awesome walls. She had such a nice time. (Edit - actually *I* had such a nice time. Her topping out there for the first time, and nine more times, was my best climbing experience of the year. Just me and her. It was great!)
Quote from: shark on April 08, 2019, 08:08:28 amQuote from: nai on April 07, 2019, 10:40:18 pmEffort getting the link, shark. Pretty pointless having that chalkbag swinging around weighing you down and causing drag. Might as well ditch it if you''re not going to use it.Good spot. Didn’t realise I didn’t chalk up. Usually would before the top traverse but guess I didn’t because my tips were numb with cold. Maybe wouldn’t have slipped out of undercut if I’d chalked up. Did notice my chalk bag was heavy so should dig out or buy a lighter oneArnaud Petit recommends ditching the chalk bag but absolutely cake the first bit of the rope in chalk so that when you clip you also get some chalk on your hands. (Just one of the many tricks from his discursive book "Escalade".)
Quote from: nai on April 07, 2019, 10:40:18 pmEffort getting the link, shark. Pretty pointless having that chalkbag swinging around weighing you down and causing drag. Might as well ditch it if you''re not going to use it.Good spot. Didn’t realise I didn’t chalk up. Usually would before the top traverse but guess I didn’t because my tips were numb with cold. Maybe wouldn’t have slipped out of undercut if I’d chalked up. Did notice my chalk bag was heavy so should dig out or buy a lighter one
Effort getting the link, shark. Pretty pointless having that chalkbag swinging around weighing you down and causing drag. Might as well ditch it if you''re not going to use it.
..The Shield RH, which feels significantly harder for the same grade
Quote from: tommytwotone on April 08, 2019, 11:30:22 am..The Shield RH, which feels significantly harder for the same gradeI found the Shield and the RH felt the same grade (at 5’6 and a whisker), looong move on each.
Quote from: Murph on April 08, 2019, 08:37:28 pm. S-took 5yr old to awesome walls. She had such a nice time. (Edit - actually *I* had such a nice time. Her topping out there for the first time, and nine more times, was my best climbing experience of the year. Just me and her. It was great!)Is this AW Sheffield. Is it good for 5 year olds then? Don't remember any kids bouldering last time I was there?
Quote from: jwi on April 08, 2019, 08:56:06 amQuote from: shark on April 08, 2019, 08:08:28 amQuote from: nai on April 07, 2019, 10:40:18 pmEffort getting the link, shark. Pretty pointless having that chalkbag swinging around weighing you down and causing drag. Might as well ditch it if you''re not going to use it.Good spot. Didn’t realise I didn’t chalk up. Usually would before the top traverse but guess I didn’t because my tips were numb with cold. Maybe wouldn’t have slipped out of undercut if I’d chalked up. Did notice my chalk bag was heavy so should dig out or buy a lighter oneArnaud Petit recommends ditching the chalk bag but absolutely cake the first bit of the rope in chalk so that when you clip you also get some chalk on your hands. (Just one of the many tricks from his discursive book "Escalade".)Me thinks Arnaud is not a sweaty bugger then.