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IFSC 2019 (Read 12054 times)

jwi

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#125 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 11:29:05 am
Oh! That was surprising. Tangible silence in Chamonix.

UnkArl

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#126 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 11:31:03 am
The ULTIMATE commentator’s curse

jwi

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#127 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 11:47:24 am
heh.

Also, contrary to what the commentators said, Garnbret looked really quite pumped the last few moves before she fell off. Did she skip the warm up or is she past it? :/

Duma

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#128 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 12:47:44 pm
Ha, just came on here to ask if there was a bug in the ifsc app since that semi result obviously couldn't be correct!

Does mean Molly TS is in finals though.

jwi

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#129 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 02:34:21 pm
It was quite bisarre to watch Janja struggle while the commentators talked about how soul crushing it would be for the rest of the finalist that she would certainly easily top out a route they couldn't even reach the head wall on.

Stu Littlefair

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#130 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 05:17:14 pm
 Charlie has got a lot better IMO over the years and is by now a pretty handy commentator.

The one issue I still have is his total inability to notice when a climber is struggling. I wonder if his monitor is tiny or something because he quite often describes climbers with elbows by their ears as “cruising”.

jwi

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#131 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 05:25:20 pm
Charlie has got a lot better IMO over the years and is by now a pretty handy commentator.

The one issue I still have is his total inability to notice when a climber is struggling. I wonder if his monitor is tiny or something because he quite often describes climbers with elbows by their ears as “cruising”.
Yeah, I was thinking the same. I don't know if they are looking at the monitors or on the actual wall, because on the two worldcups I been to in Briançon it was (unsurprisingly) a lot easier to tell how the climbers were doing than when watching on my laptop.

maybe_si

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#132 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 06:07:40 pm
What happened to Janja?  I am planning on watching the finals shortly but am a bit confused by the results?  Tops both qualifiers but then I cant see a score at all in semis?  Injury?  Disqualified for some reason?

abarro81

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#133 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 08:48:03 pm
Despite our household's messed up eating, we were both glad to see the Japanese lady blow it low down at the end... not healthy... do the IFSC have BMI rules at the moment?

fatneck

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#134 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 09:41:47 pm
ONDRAAAAAAAA  :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :punk: :punk: :punk: :punk: :punk: :punk:

joel182

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#135 Re: IFSC 2019
July 14, 2019, 11:00:51 am
Despite our household's messed up eating, we were both glad to see the Japanese lady blow it low down at the end... not healthy... do the IFSC have BMI rules at the moment?

She's only 15 too :/ really hope the IFSC/Team Japan have good support systems in place

GraemeA

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#136 Re: IFSC 2019
July 14, 2019, 05:13:56 pm
Charlie normally doesn't have sight of the wall so is only looking at a monitor. Yesterday the commentators booth was set up with the wall (and Mt Blanc) as a backdrop so they could occassionally look round at the wall but the majority of the time they were watching on monitors.

Danny

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#137 Re: IFSC 2019
July 14, 2019, 08:46:34 pm
Despite our household's messed up eating, we were both glad to see the Japanese lady blow it low down at the end... not healthy... do the IFSC have BMI rules at the moment?

She's only 15 too :/ really hope the IFSC/Team Japan have good support systems in place

This is fairly presumptuous in my view. Loads of kids are complete rakes and eat well, or even like horses. Really skinny does not *necessarily* mean eating disorder. Ondra, for example, was ludicrously skinny as a yoof.   

Fiend

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#138 Re: IFSC 2019
July 14, 2019, 08:58:45 pm
Womens' was a bit meh unfortunately, for the same reason, although some good moves, also Molly TS's hair was perhaps the highlight. Chez Fiend there were also mutterings about the last girl but also balanced out with "but some people are just built like that". Also there were many mutterings about Jessi's hold/hold+ score, good job GraemeA getting the information up to the booth about that, hell of a tough call and I don't envy the judges nor officials.

Mens' was really good and the route-setters would have been relieved they "cooked" it almost perfectly - if the climbers had been out in the reverse order to how well they did in it, it would have been THE perfect progression. Great to see the Bosi doing so well, and that Spanish dude was some heart-in-mouth fight.


BTW prior to my previous replay video indiscretion, I hadn't read any of the previous posts about the previous final - I stand by my pisstaking of course, but I don't mean any insult to the setters, fuck knows how hard it is with an ever-evolving line-up and the influx of more bouldering competitors into Lead - in fact the Womens' crux looked just like the sort of off-balance half-jump that would seem pretty natural and obvious in a bouldering final.

abarro81

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#139 Re: IFSC 2019
July 15, 2019, 09:28:13 am
Despite our household's messed up eating, we were both glad to see the Japanese lady blow it low down at the end... not healthy... do the IFSC have BMI rules at the moment?

She's only 15 too :/ really hope the IFSC/Team Japan have good support systems in place

This is fairly presumptuous in my view. Loads of kids are complete rakes and eat well, or even like horses. Really skinny does not *necessarily* mean eating disorder. Ondra, for example, was ludicrously skinny as a yoof.

Perhaps.. I'm still glad she fell low. If kids see someone looking like that winning the world cups, kids will think it's good for your climbing to look like that, and for 99% of people, looking like that means being pretty bloody rexic

Steve Crowe

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bigironhorse

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#141 Re: IFSC 2019
July 15, 2019, 09:56:57 pm
Great mens final.

Anyone else think the clips are too close on world cup routes. It sometimes seems like they are doing only one or two moves between clips, would be nicer to have more continuous climbing imo. When you can clip two draws from one hand hold surely thats overkill?


Fiend

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#142 Re: IFSC 2019
July 15, 2019, 10:18:49 pm
They're obviously very close low down, for safety. Higher up they seem okay to me?? Double clipping seems to be more about tactics?

Danny

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#143 Re: IFSC 2019
July 21, 2019, 09:59:00 pm
Delighted to see that Janja has a real fight on her hands. Chaehyun Seo seems to be every bit her match. Good finals this time round. Bosi unlucky to not take a medal. A little bit shocked to hear that Janja, at  just 20 years old, was the veteran in the women's. 

fatneck

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#144 Re: IFSC 2019
Yesterday at 08:19:12 am
What Danny said....

joel182

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#145 Re: IFSC 2019
Yesterday at 08:06:28 pm
The IFSC has , so you can actually watch the women climbing now.

Enjoyed this round a lot, thought the routes were fun to watch. Great to see Janja challenged and just outrageous to see the depth of talent among Team Japan.