Womens' was a bit meh unfortunately, for the same reason, although some good moves, also Molly TS's hair was perhaps the highlight. Chez Fiend there were also mutterings about the last girl but also balanced out with "but some people are just built like that". Also there were many mutterings about Jessi's hold/hold+ score, good job GraemeA getting the information up to the booth about that, hell of a tough call and I don't envy the judges nor officials.
Mens' was really good and the route-setters would have been relieved they "cooked" it almost perfectly - if the climbers had been out in the reverse order to how well they did in it, it would have been THE perfect progression. Great to see the Bosi doing so well, and that Spanish dude was some heart-in-mouth fight.
BTW prior to my previous replay video indiscretion, I hadn't read any of the previous posts about the previous final - I stand by my pisstaking of course, but I don't mean any insult to the setters, fuck knows how hard it is with an ever-evolving line-up and the influx of more bouldering competitors into Lead - in fact the Womens' crux looked just like the sort of off-balance half-jump that would seem pretty natural and obvious in a bouldering final.