UKBouldering.com

IFSC 2019 (Read 71640 times)

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#125 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 11:29:05 am
Oh! That was surprising. Tangible silence in Chamonix.

UnkArl

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 89
  • Karma: +2/-0
#126 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 11:31:03 am
The ULTIMATE commentator’s curse

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#127 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 11:47:24 am
heh.

Also, contrary to what the commentators said, Garnbret looked really quite pumped the last few moves before she fell off. Did she skip the warm up or is she past it? :/

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#128 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 12:47:44 pm
Ha, just came on here to ask if there was a bug in the ifsc app since that semi result obviously couldn't be correct!

Does mean Molly TS is in finals though.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#129 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 02:34:21 pm
It was quite bisarre to watch Janja struggle while the commentators talked about how soul crushing it would be for the rest of the finalist that she would certainly easily top out a route they couldn't even reach the head wall on.

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1836
  • Karma: +283/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#130 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 05:17:14 pm
 Charlie has got a lot better IMO over the years and is by now a pretty handy commentator.

The one issue I still have is his total inability to notice when a climber is struggling. I wonder if his monitor is tiny or something because he quite often describes climbers with elbows by their ears as “cruising”.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#131 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 05:25:20 pm
Charlie has got a lot better IMO over the years and is by now a pretty handy commentator.

The one issue I still have is his total inability to notice when a climber is struggling. I wonder if his monitor is tiny or something because he quite often describes climbers with elbows by their ears as “cruising”.
Yeah, I was thinking the same. I don't know if they are looking at the monitors or on the actual wall, because on the two worldcups I been to in Briançon it was (unsurprisingly) a lot easier to tell how the climbers were doing than when watching on my laptop.

maybe_si

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 84
  • Karma: +0/-0
#132 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 06:07:40 pm
What happened to Janja?  I am planning on watching the finals shortly but am a bit confused by the results?  Tops both qualifiers but then I cant see a score at all in semis?  Injury?  Disqualified for some reason?

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4286
  • Karma: +341/-25
#133 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 08:48:03 pm
Despite our household's messed up eating, we were both glad to see the Japanese lady blow it low down at the end... not healthy... do the IFSC have BMI rules at the moment?

fatneck

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2894
  • Karma: +143/-3
  • Fishing Helm
#134 Re: IFSC 2019
July 13, 2019, 09:41:47 pm
ONDRAAAAAAAA  :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :punk: :punk: :punk: :punk: :punk: :punk:

joel182

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 345
  • Karma: +49/-1
#135 Re: IFSC 2019
July 14, 2019, 11:00:51 am
Despite our household's messed up eating, we were both glad to see the Japanese lady blow it low down at the end... not healthy... do the IFSC have BMI rules at the moment?

She's only 15 too :/ really hope the IFSC/Team Japan have good support systems in place

GraemeA

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1875
  • Karma: +80/-6
  • FTM
    • The Works, it's the Bollocks
#136 Re: IFSC 2019
July 14, 2019, 05:13:56 pm
Charlie normally doesn't have sight of the wall so is only looking at a monitor. Yesterday the commentators booth was set up with the wall (and Mt Blanc) as a backdrop so they could occassionally look round at the wall but the majority of the time they were watching on monitors.

Danny

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 855
  • Karma: +43/-3
#137 Re: IFSC 2019
July 14, 2019, 08:46:34 pm
Despite our household's messed up eating, we were both glad to see the Japanese lady blow it low down at the end... not healthy... do the IFSC have BMI rules at the moment?

She's only 15 too :/ really hope the IFSC/Team Japan have good support systems in place

This is fairly presumptuous in my view. Loads of kids are complete rakes and eat well, or even like horses. Really skinny does not *necessarily* mean eating disorder. Ondra, for example, was ludicrously skinny as a yoof.   

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#138 Re: IFSC 2019
July 14, 2019, 08:58:45 pm
Womens' was a bit meh unfortunately, for the same reason, although some good moves, also Molly TS's hair was perhaps the highlight. Chez Fiend there were also mutterings about the last girl but also balanced out with "but some people are just built like that". Also there were many mutterings about Jessi's hold/hold+ score, good job GraemeA getting the information up to the booth about that, hell of a tough call and I don't envy the judges nor officials.

Mens' was really good and the route-setters would have been relieved they "cooked" it almost perfectly - if the climbers had been out in the reverse order to how well they did in it, it would have been THE perfect progression. Great to see the Bosi doing so well, and that Spanish dude was some heart-in-mouth fight.


BTW prior to my previous replay video indiscretion, I hadn't read any of the previous posts about the previous final - I stand by my pisstaking of course, but I don't mean any insult to the setters, fuck knows how hard it is with an ever-evolving line-up and the influx of more bouldering competitors into Lead - in fact the Womens' crux looked just like the sort of off-balance half-jump that would seem pretty natural and obvious in a bouldering final.

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4286
  • Karma: +341/-25
#139 Re: IFSC 2019
July 15, 2019, 09:28:13 am
Despite our household's messed up eating, we were both glad to see the Japanese lady blow it low down at the end... not healthy... do the IFSC have BMI rules at the moment?

She's only 15 too :/ really hope the IFSC/Team Japan have good support systems in place

This is fairly presumptuous in my view. Loads of kids are complete rakes and eat well, or even like horses. Really skinny does not *necessarily* mean eating disorder. Ondra, for example, was ludicrously skinny as a yoof.

Perhaps.. I'm still glad she fell low. If kids see someone looking like that winning the world cups, kids will think it's good for your climbing to look like that, and for 99% of people, looking like that means being pretty bloody rexic

Steve Crowe

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 198
  • Karma: +17/-1
  • Using knees since 1974
    • www.climbonline.co.uk

bigironhorse

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 767
  • Karma: +16/-0
    • YouTube
#141 Re: IFSC 2019
July 15, 2019, 09:56:57 pm
Great mens final.

Anyone else think the clips are too close on world cup routes. It sometimes seems like they are doing only one or two moves between clips, would be nicer to have more continuous climbing imo. When you can clip two draws from one hand hold surely thats overkill?


Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#142 Re: IFSC 2019
July 15, 2019, 10:18:49 pm
They're obviously very close low down, for safety. Higher up they seem okay to me?? Double clipping seems to be more about tactics?

Danny

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 855
  • Karma: +43/-3
#143 Re: IFSC 2019
July 21, 2019, 09:59:00 pm
Delighted to see that Janja has a real fight on her hands. Chaehyun Seo seems to be every bit her match. Good finals this time round. Bosi unlucky to not take a medal. A little bit shocked to hear that Janja, at  just 20 years old, was the veteran in the women's. 

fatneck

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2894
  • Karma: +143/-3
  • Fishing Helm
#144 Re: IFSC 2019
July 22, 2019, 08:19:12 am
What Danny said....

joel182

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 345
  • Karma: +49/-1
#145 Re: IFSC 2019
July 22, 2019, 08:06:28 pm
The IFSC has , so you can actually watch the women climbing now.

Enjoyed this round a lot, thought the routes were fun to watch. Great to see Janja challenged and just outrageous to see the depth of talent among Team Japan.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#146 Re: IFSC 2019
July 23, 2019, 10:48:30 pm
Yeah good round! Some thrills and spills and some proper enduro-routes too. Great to see Bosi do so well, it very much looked like he had enough left prior to that simple error, and he's definitely got podium potential. Seo on the women's had me whooping. Good stuff.

joel182

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 345
  • Karma: +49/-1
#147 Re: IFSC 2019
July 30, 2019, 10:56:08 pm
Quick table, these are the guys who came within the top 40 in terms of ranking points in the Boulder World Cups 2019, and the Lead World Cups 2019 (of which there have only been 3 so far):


Code: [Select]
Name Nation Boulder Lead
Schubert Jakob AUT 10 9
McColl Sean CAN 21 6
Pan YuFei CHN 17 4
Ondra Adam CZE 2 7
Flohé Yannick GER 25 12
Hojer Jan GER 6 31
Megos Alex GER 18 1
Dohi Keita JPN 18 39
Fujii Kokoro JPN 5 14
Harada Kai JPN 12 19
Narasaki Meic JPN 28 22
Narasaki Tomo JPN 1 23
Sugimoto Rei JPN 11 26
Lehmann Sascha SUI 27 2
Bailey Sean USA 39 19
Coleman Nathan USA 20 21


joel182

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 345
  • Karma: +49/-1
#148 Re: IFSC 2019
August 11, 2019, 11:45:28 pm
Some big  the female bouldering after the qualifier at Hachioji. Good video summary from , and full stream is .

Sol Sa down in 27th after, according to her instagram, struggling with a knee injury since Wujiang.

Jessie Pilz in 33rd is a real shock. With some luck in the lead and speed she could maybe still make it through to the combined, though.

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4286
  • Karma: +341/-25
#149 Re: IFSC 2019
August 12, 2019, 10:39:35 am
How does the world champs work nowadays for combined - do they just use your ranking in each of the 3 events to calculate it, or do they run all the events, then have a separate set of finals for the top however-many in the combined, based on all the individual qualifications?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal