[GraemeA]

Kokoro struggled on the sloper and he was 2nd out. Kai and Adam pissed that move and they were 6th and 8th out so doubt it was how muck 'gank' was on the sloper.

Main thing though was how happy I was that the men were last out otherwise it would have been a crappy finish.

(Men were last out because it was quicker for the setters to strip holds/volumes off the women's and then add a few (less) holds/volumes for the men's)

[galpinos]

Men's was the ideal final, with Adam topping out being the icing on the cake.

I couldn't work out with the women's, whether it was too hard a move or the move difficulty was ok but hard to read, i.e. they was an easier way to do it. Seo taking the victory in three of four world cups is quite something though.

[Stu Littlefair]

Yeah, the men’s comp was ace. Fascinating watching the differences between those who looked happy on the slopers and those who didn’t.

Shame the women’s comp came down to fine judgement calls on essentially the same move....

[Fiend]

I dunno the sloper thing still seems a little odd. Adam's been seen to wet his hands before a climbing comp as his skin was too dry so I doubt he's the best benchmark. I wouldn't expect Jakob to be so flummoxed given how completely familiar he will be with slopers from the bouldering. Not a real complaint, it was still a good comp.

Oh, talking about the sloper....latest technical question - if a climber had a brush on their chalkbag, would they be allowed to brush a hold en route (which could have been both feasible and useful on that move...)??

[GraemeA]

Oh, talking about the sloper....latest technical question - if a climber had a brush on their chalkbag, would they be allowed to brush a hold en route (which could have been both feasible and useful on that move...)??

No.

[GraemeA]

I couldn't work out with the women's, whether it was too hard a move or the move difficulty was ok but hard to read, i.e. they was an easier way to do it. Seo taking the victory in three of four world cups is quite something though.

They misread the move. The pocket (hold 34) was meant for the thumb to be used in conjunction with the volume was what the Chief Setter Christian Bindhammer told me.

[Muenchener]

Oh, talking about the sloper....latest technical question - if a climber had a brush on their chalkbag, would they be allowed to brush a hold en route (which could have been both feasible and useful on that move...)??

No.

I'm sure you know, but I'm not seeing where in the rules it's actually forbidden for lead. "Only brushes and other materiel provided by the Event Organiser" only appears under bouldering.

[GraemeA]

It would be excluded under:
"3.14 All technical equipment used by a competitor shall comply with the applicable Applicable Standard.
Each competitor:
A) shall wear climbing shoes and (where relevant) a sit-harness during their attempts;
B) may use at their discretion a chalk bag and chalk (dry or liquid) for their hands. No other
performance enhancing agents may be used (e.g. resin)."

[Ballsofcottonwool]

no tape gloves for hand jams then?

[abarro81]

Presumably there's an exception for tape, otherwise everyone's breaking the rules all the time? And sure I've seen insta footage of Hojer with a kneepad on?
[here: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bz0HF-xIrMt/]
Is it a new rule, or do they just not enforce it?

[Fiend]

Cheers G. Interesting about W 34 too, ta.

 Barrows was that in an IFSC? I don't remember it. No doubt you have a youtube plug-in that scours videos and streams for kneepad usage

[GraemeA]

Presumably there's an exception for tape, otherwise everyone's breaking the rules all the time? And sure I've seen insta footage of Hojer with a kneepad on?
[here: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bz0HF-xIrMt/]
Is it a new rule, or do they just not enforce it?

Ondra has used knee pads in the past, and had asked whether they were allowed, he was told yes. Euro Lead Champs in Italy 2016.
Maybe we need to specifically allow tape. Or specifically outlaw own brushes.
Tape gloves would probably be allowed. I could imagine that in a boulder final where there is observation someone might tape up.

[Fiend]

Euro Champions at Ratho, semis starting now;

[Fiend]

Ratho: Bloody good semis and finals, some of the best and most interesting routes I've seen this year, despite the lack of tops and that awkward rope-on-foothold dyno. Great variety and some proper climbing.

Xiamen: Can't remember so much about it?? The wall arena was cool, I think Women's final was really cool. Was Men's too easy?? Setting was not nearly as good as Ratho.

Inzai: Good stuff. Wall arena was dismal but routes were good and packed a lot into their length. Interesting moves and a good split for both fields. Both of the obligatory dyno moves were far more interesting than usual. I liked the M's winner's style, he an Ondra-ish combination of analysis and dropping a gear when needed.

Pity there's not much more left!!

[Trail]

Any word on whether the "on hold" invites for Toulouse are being decided?
Pretty grim to leave the climbers in limbo for so long on it, although I imagine if say Alexei qualified in Toulouse other teams might protest on his entry?

[GraemeA]

It looks as if the IOC have agreed to the 2+2 extras as the list of Starters just shows 22 men and 22 women without any mention of the IOC.

[webbo]

Just watching the lead qualifying and one the volumes rips off the wall. I didn’t realise loose rock was part of the combined comps these days.

[Fiend]

Did you realise all the epic chat about this is taking place in the Olympics 2020 thread? 

[Dexter]

Just watching the lead qualifying and one the volumes rips off the wall. I didn’t realise loose rock was part of the combined comps these days.

When people ask how hard the routes are now you can say "oh around hxs"

[moose]

Just watching the lead qualifying and one the volumes rips off the wall. I didn’t realise loose rock was part of the combined comps these days.

When people ask how hard the routes are now you can say "oh around hxs"

Or the grade Mick Fowler reserved for particularly loose chossfests, "unjustifiable"!