Me too. That Kazakh speed climber really impressed me. Yes he looked weak on some of the boulders compared to the top guys, but he also (a) topped a boulder in qualifiers that a couple of bouldering specialists failed on, (b) beat two lead climbers in the combined bouldering and (c) beat two boulderers in the combined lead. These are some of the best climbers in the world - so if nothing else, he has completely kyboshed the theory we all had that any speed climber would be useless compared to the rest at both bouldering and lead.He also came 41st - equal with Will Bosi - in the overall men's bouldering qualifiers. He's no slouch. He deserves his combined medal.
Me too. That Kazakh speed climber really impressed me. Yes he looked weak on some of the boulders compared to the top guys, but he also (a) topped a boulder in qualifiers that a couple of bouldering specialists failed on, (b) beat two lead climbers in the combined bouldering and (c) beat two boulderers in the combined lead. These are some of the best climbers in the world - so if nothing else, he has completely kyboshed the theory we all had that any speed climber would be useless compared to the rest at both bouldering and lead.He also came 41st - equal with Will Bosi - in the overall men's bouldering qualifiers. He's no slouch. He deserves his combined medal. Edit: on the other hand, people like Tomoa are getting quite close to the speed specialists in speed now. I think he was only 0.4 seconds behind with his best run. I reckon the gaps will all close a bit more by next summer.
It reminds me a bit of when the BMX and the Snowboard Cross (I think) were introduced/showcased. Favourites just seemed to get wiped out at random making it interesting - but not if you were cheering for someone...
Quote from: tomtom on August 21, 2019, 04:16:59 pmIt reminds me a bit of when the BMX and the Snowboard Cross (I think) were introduced/showcased. Favourites just seemed to get wiped out at random making it interesting - but not if you were cheering for someone...How random is it though really? Five of the podium places went to people who by any reasonable standard are in the top six competition climbers in the world.
How do they calculate decathlon and heptathlon results? Those are surely the closest equivalent.
I suspect the multiplicative scoring thing might have more to do with the politics of getting at least some speed specialist representation in the Olympics, given that ability in the other two disciplines are reasonably well correlated
I’m pretty sure people were body and mind shaming another Japanese 15 year old.Let me go back and checkBy the way, I love watching Ai Mori climb almost as much as I like watching Tomoa. (And her style is a little more attainable for me)
Scoring etc aside, I enjoyed these combined comps - though admittedly didn't watch the speed - but I did watch the lead which I've never before engaged with and it was actually ok!Also, I know they get some stick on here sometimes, but hats off the commentators. That was an intense set of days for them and they remained enthusiastic to the end. Quality has gone up too, nice work fellas.
Just want to point out that there is nothing shameful about suffering from anorexia, or any eating disorder, and no one's body is something to be ashamed of.A few climbers, like Angie Payne, have spoken powerfully about their experiences with eating disorders. Nat Berry wrote about her experiences as a developing competition climber.I hope that anyone who is in need of support feels able to ask for it and knows that it is nothing to be ashamed of.