[Muenchener]

1-6-11 on massive slopers. It's the only way forward.

Nah, proper old school. 1-8-16 on beastmaker 6mm crimps. Jan Hojer & Dmitry Sharafutdinov gold & silver.

[GraemeA]

1-6-11 on massive slopers. It's the only way forward.

Nah, proper old school. 1-8-16 on beastmaker 6mm crimps. Jan Hojer & Dmitry Sharafutdinov gold & silver.

With Salavat Rachmetov getting bronze despite being 51 years old.

[Duma]

I approve of this podium:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B1MImltJk8M/?igshid=sq3ul1djau6m

[remus]

Lead highlights here

[Sasquatch]

Also I assume the boulder problem setters would have been an international mix as usual, and as such any chat about setting for a Japanese advantage would be unfounded?

Ondra looked stoked to be back in some ‘proper’ climbing, crimping the fuck out of some screw ons in the lead semis.

Why would it be unfounded?   I said nothing about intent, just that the style suited them.  If I had to guess on intent, I'd guess that the desire was to set "exciting" for the viewership, which was a total failure...  And in the end it didn't matter about the style.  Of the three Japanese in finals, only one made podium, so the results don't reflect that "advantage".  Besides, I'm probably well off the mark as three of the Japanese made it through semi's which were not nearly as parkour style, so maybe that's not their "style", but it is obviously adams weakness. 

[teestub]

Apologies that wasn’t directed at your post, there was a lot of chat on the other channel about the setting being so that a Japanese climber would win.

Agree with what you said about trying to make it exciting, and with the fine margins at these levels they probably weren’t far off.

[tomtom]

With the present format - the lead climbing is just much more interesting to watch. Or to qualify, it has stuff happening all the time.

I’m sure this has all been thought of before but no inspection of problems, or the opposite letting them have a go (or get on a ladder to feel all the holds) might make the bouldering more - linear?

[Oldmanmatt]

Despite our household's messed up eating, we were both glad to see the Japanese lady blow it low down at the end... not healthy... do the IFSC have BMI rules at the moment?

She's only 15 too :/ really hope the IFSC/Team Japan have good support systems in place

This is fairly presumptuous in my view. Loads of kids are complete rakes and eat well, or even like horses. Really skinny does not *necessarily* mean eating disorder. Ondra, for example, was ludicrously skinny as a yoof.

I have a 14 year old daughter who eats like an entire platoon of Pongos (ate an entire pack of chocolate digestives in less than 45 minutes on Sunday afternoon and polished off an adult roast, with dessert at a carvery an hour later) and her BMI is right down in the 25th centile (ie, only just inside the healthy range). But she trains hard at the wall, several times a week and swims a good few km over two 1.5 hr sessions every week. Solid muscle. Punch like some sort pissed off Kangaroo with PMT (has been deployed on dad, in justified response to excessive dad jokes, especially when she came out as “Demi Pan” and I said she looks more like a frying pan*...)


*seriously, I had to google that, at the time. I still think it roughly translates to Bi, but not a slut. Hey, I’m old.

[bigironhorse]

Thought the lead finals were pretty good. Routes a little bit cruxy but not bad enough to detract. Mens line up was unbelievable!

[Nibile]

Matt, I'm quite sure that your daughter doesn't look like the Japanese climber, otherwise you would be a bit concerned. Being "rake" is one thing, being that skinny is another. It's not only a matter of weight, but also of body fat percentage.
If she has got the metabolism of a furnace, good for her, but otherwise it could be a problem in the future.
The same things were said about Sasha DiGiulian.

[Danny]

Really enjoyed the lead. Proper resistance battles with good movement and no gimmicks. I think Megos would've won the mens if he'd made fewer mistakes.

[dontfollowme]

Agreed. He looked pretty dejected when untying.

[Coops_13]

Woke up to find Shauna had won the combined qualis! She must have all but confirmed her Olympic spot now!

Why did the bouldering round seem relatively easy?

[tomtom]

Woke up to find Shauna had won the combined qualis! She must have all but confirmed her Olympic spot now!

Why did the bouldering round seem relatively easy?

Wasn’t this comp to sort out the top 20 from which there’s a comp next week to select the top 8 for quali. I think.

[Danny]

Woke up to find Shauna had won the combined qualis! She must have all but confirmed her Olympic spot now!

Why did the bouldering round seem relatively easy?

Wasn’t this comp to sort out the top 20 from which there’s a comp next week to select the top 8 for quali. I think.

My understanding is that now, with the lead qualis done, she's deffo in the final. In other words she's going to Tokyo 2020.

That's absolutely fantastic news !

Clearly she had an Olympic plan, and her training has paid off bigly.

[Duma]

She's qualified for finals (top in first place, top seven from finals qualify for Olympics (I think...). So it's not in the bag yet.

Interesting to see a (tiny) crack in janjas invincibility, wonder if that's Shauna shaking off the cold and showing how good she really is or Janja just momentarily taking her eye off the ball (understandable with the whole double world champion thing).
Impressive she got this result despite her speed time (and even her British women's record) being well off those of the other women in the finals.

[Sidehaas]

Woke up to find Shauna had won the combined qualis! She must have all but confirmed her Olympic spot now!

Why did the bouldering round seem relatively easy?

Wasn’t this comp to sort out the top 20 from which there’s a comp next week to select the top 8 for quali. I think.

Top 20 were sorted from the combination of the individual boulder/lead/speed comps and became the entrants for the combined. This comp (combined qualifiers) whittled that down to 8. The final (for combined world champion,  from which 7 out of 8 qualify for the Olympics)  is on Tuesday. However because the top 8 contains 4 Japanese and they are only allowed two places,  everyone else down to and including 9th place have now qualified by default. So Shauna is in,  assuming team GB take up her place?

Three thoughts on this:
I enjoyed the combined qualifiers,  I thought the format worked well.
Can't help feeling it was always likely that we'd have 3+ Japanese finalists and hence the final could be a bit anticlimactic.
I feel sorry for Jessica Pilz/Brooke Rabatou with their Olympic qualification coming down to a controversial decision about how far Janja had got up the wall.  Unless something has changed in the last few hours then Brooke is through but I think if Janja had been given an extra +, she would have scored higher than Brooke and that would have put Pilz through instead. It definitely looked to me watching like Janja's score should have been the same as Brooke's - and she was closer to holding the position they were going for. Maybe Graeme A can explain?

Edit: I just realized Brooke was a few seconds faster than January so presumably would have stayed ahead of her in the scoring anyway?

[Wood FT]

High drama in the combined lead qualis - Ondra out by standing on a bolt.. 

[SA Chris]

Schoolboy error.

[Danny]

High drama in the combined lead qualis - Ondra out by standing on a bolt.. 

Am I a complete dickhead for finding this hilarious? I think it's because he has a road to Tokyo series on YouTube.
Dissapointed that he won't be there, but I think it'll be nice to see him smashing on with what he does best (climbing rocks).

[Coops_13]

High drama in the combined lead qualis - Ondra out by standing on a bolt.. 

Am I a complete dickhead for finding this hilarious? I think it's because he has a road to Tokyo series on YouTube.
Dissapointed that he won't be there, but I think it'll be nice to see him smashing on with what he does best (climbing rocks).

I'd put my money on him getting the wildcard ticket if he doesn't qualify conventionally...

[joel182]

High drama in the combined lead qualis - Ondra out by standing on a bolt.. 

Am I a complete dickhead for finding this hilarious? I think it's because he has a road to Tokyo series on YouTube.
Dissapointed that he won't be there, but I think it'll be nice to see him smashing on with what he does best (climbing rocks).

I'd put my money on him getting the wildcard ticket if he doesn't qualify conventionally...

I'm probably wrong about loads of things, but as far as I can tell, that's now how the Tripartite Commission place will work.

There are 92 countries eligible for the place - listed here on this archery website - none of which have a climber that is eligible for selection - you need to be from one of those countries and have competed in the Combined WCH at Hachioji (maybe someone who competed in the Hachioji will find a new nationality?!).

This means the Tripartite Commission place will be reallocated to the next best climber from the Hachioji Combined WCH.

I believe that to qualify for Toulouse, Ondra needs to obtain some ranking points in the Speed World Cups, which he can only do now with a top 30 finish in Xiamen.
Xiamen was poorly attended last year (only 31 climbers set a time on the speed wall...), and given its timing in the season, I wonder if it will be poorly attended again this year.

Failing that Ondra should have a good shot at winning the place from the European Continental Championships next year, which I guess he'll be eligible to compete in, but have no idea how that works.

[SA Chris]

High drama in the combined lead qualis - Ondra out by standing on a bolt.. 

Am I a complete dickhead for finding this hilarious? I think it's because he has a road to Tokyo series on YouTube.
Dissapointed that he won't be there, but I think it'll be nice to see him smashing on with what he does best (climbing rocks).

It is mildly amusing, but got to feel for the guy if he doesn't get there. Also, I'm not acquainted with lead comp scoring; if you stand on a bolt, is that complete disqualification, and nil points? Or do you still get a score for the climbing up to where you stand on the bolt?

[Duma]

Bolt was very low so doubt it would make a difference?

[Duma]

There are 3 comps providing a direct qualification route to Tokyo, not including a"wild card" slot and some countries will have more than 2 athletes qualifying. The national governing bodies will then select their favourite 2 of each gender even though more athletes might have "qualified".

probably realistically only an issue for the Slovs/Japs.

more accurate description would prob be

"will qualify for consideration by their national governing body for selection as one of the top 2 athletes by gender for selection to the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games."

What are the other two comps?