Went out for a quick evening session tonight, and was making good progress on Robin's excellent "Encore" (RH finish to Barmfinger, up to the arete). Unfortunately the "key foothold that is unfortunately crumbly and often damp" is neither crumbly nor damp any more... it has broken off. When going for the top, I thought my foot had slipped but actually a piece of rock about 5 cm long broke off. Think water had been seeping in behind, because the scar was filled with grimy mud and was quite damp.
There is still a good edge there at the bottom of that scar, but its still crumbly and unfortunately it's impossible not to rub up against the side block now. Still think it will be worth doing, it just makes it a little less pure now. And I'm not convinced the foothold is any less friable.
To top it off, the midges came out in force, so i tromped home defeated, guilty, and itchy.
