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Anston - Frodo (Read 2747 times)

tomtom

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Anston - Frodo
March 26, 2019, 09:44:33 pm
Hi everyone,
Was up at Frodo Butress for the first time today with Dolly - and we had a session on Frodo. Looks like a large hold has fallen off (at time unknown) which is the one the LH goes for at at 37.14 in the Lawsons escaping norfolk video

https://youtu.be/2TDRSbMjNK8?t=2227

He then yards off this to make the move to the holds under the lip. Not having this hold makes the next move quite different (as we were puzzling today). I was wondering if its been done since (probably - Haydn has it in his logbook from last year - but he's strong :) ) or if there was an alt method or if its quite new and not been done since...
Taa.

haydn jones

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#1 Re: Anston - Frodo
March 26, 2019, 10:23:16 pm
Sorry. I don't have a video of that problem from that day. I found a video of everything else from that day though :/

tomtom

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#2 Re: Anston - Frodo
March 26, 2019, 10:27:58 pm
:D

moose

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#3 Re: Anston - Frodo
March 27, 2019, 07:09:39 am
I pulled a block off Frodo around 2 years ago:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19936.375.html

Bradders

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#4 Re: Anston - Frodo
March 27, 2019, 07:31:51 am
I did it back in September last year. Don't think I took a video as it was getting dark unfortunately.

However, from memory I think it was quite a simple case of using the hold you took before with RH for your LH, in order to then do the move to the RH slot.

tomtom

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#5 Re: Anston - Frodo
March 27, 2019, 07:55:26 am
Thanks Bradders & Moose. OK - so do-able but probably harder :) We were trying the move up to the slot from the good crimp but felt nails...

We were tired though..

James Malloch

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#6 Re: Anston - Frodo
May 16, 2019, 01:37:44 pm
Tom - I noticed you've mentioned this in your PC entries recently. How have you been getting on / have you sussed some beta out? I've been meaning to get down and give this a go after work some time (maybe tomorrow).

Also for parking - are you dropping down onto the sector from above (parking at the T-junction closer to Anston) or doing the normal lay-by parking? I seem to remember there being a really fast approach but it would have been 4-5 years ago when I went and it's gone out of my mind!

tomtom

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#7 Re: Anston - Frodo
May 16, 2019, 03:12:11 pm
Tom - I noticed you've mentioned this in your PC entries recently. How have you been getting on / have you sussed some beta out? I've been meaning to get down and give this a go after work some time (maybe tomorrow).

Also for parking - are you dropping down onto the sector from above (parking at the T-junction closer to Anston) or doing the normal lay-by parking? I seem to remember there being a really fast approach but it would have been 4-5 years ago when I went and it's gone out of my mind!

Hi James - yeah been working this (though Nazgul LH has taken up most of my time and frustratingly not gone yet...

On Frodo I/we (dolly and Nai) worked out you could crimp with LH and drop a right knee from the really good foothold and I’m tall enough to swivel round and reach up to get the high roof slot - just - some of the time. :D The fun’s not all over then - as you have to pinch the top slot and then bring LH over to a fairly crap undercut (whereI’m stuck) before going again with the right to the lip and glory etc...

For parking during the daytime the lay-by by the T junction is pretty heavily used by people going to the cemetery (and the odd funeral) so I’ve parked further down that road on the first left where you get to houses. Its a wee bit of a schlep up the road but quicker than walking along from the other parking through the woods. In the evening I’ve parked by the cemetery (a couple of times) as I’m just one car and I figure I won’t be disrupting a funeral that time of day...

Worth noting that Dolly was pulled up (well asked a few questions) by someone by the cemetery a few weeks back who said that climbing wasn’t allowed - but kind of tolerated etc.. whatever the rights or wrongs of that persons statements its probably best to be discrete with parking etc..

Otherwise its all bone dry at the moment - though on Tuesday I had to dismantle a stick/log lean to against the buttress that some kids had built over the weekend...

 

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