Got to admit that having watched the vid it didn't seem that far off what Franco said assuming I'm looking at it right.
Get back up and do the whole thing, your capable of it. Get it done innit. I tried this for a session with Franco and he did the bottom half so I can confirm he can do the whole thing. He just seems to deliberately land himself if these debates ahah
Like I say, I really don't think what we're on about is a big deal, but if others do, so be it.
:chair:I suppose in my mind I wouldn’t be done until I had completed it from bottom to top like Andy did it originally. If your trying to get the same experience as the FA then that’s where youv got to climb. But what ever floats your boat really I suppose, like I said the top would have been very exiting non the less so kudos for that. But you know what I think I wanted to stick to my guns that day and tried it from the start Andy used rather than the crack (I think I had one go like that but kind of felt like I was ruining the challenge for myself and put in a half arsed effort) but that’s just because I wanted to do what Earl did to prove to myself I could climb it like him. For me it’s about aiming to improve or meet standard. That’s what drove me (and Alex) to do that dark side like we did. Is there still room for improvement? Definitely but I don’t think Franco’s that arsed he did want he wanted to do
I'd been wondering for a while which line was best
I see why as a boulder problem, you want to climb the whole thing, but the top feels like a route, so maybe it's kinda caught in limbo.
Quote from: FrancoLike I say, I really don't think what we're on about is a big deal, but if others do, so be it.As a couple others have said, it's great that you've been (relatively) honest about your approach/style etc, but I think the contention is that you claimed (at the surface) to have climbed The Young when you did not. Yes, you explained what you did in your blog but the lazy reader may not have got that far through. Also, the way you have written your blog is misleading: (1) you're not clear about the breakdown of the climb; (2) you claim there are two rests when there is only one, and you suggest the rest is better than it is (in your vid, for example, you shake out just a couple times). In doing so (bigging up the rest), you seem to be implying that the bottom boulder doesn't add difficulty to the overall climb, and therefore that what you climbed is of comparable difficulty i.e. doing the bottom is the same as starting from the crack, because either way you get the rest. This might be true if you're Ramon J-P or Seb Bouin, but I'd bet isn't true for you. (3) you don't give an overall assessment of the difficulty of the climb you did and how it might differ from that of The Young. Instead you imply that the route you climbed is of comparable difficulty, which I'm confident is not true. Basically, it comes across as if you're trying to say either that (1) you climbed the young or something of comparable difficulty and boldness. I don't think what you did is as bold as The Young as you'd have been more tired at the top had you climbed the bottom, and therefore more likely to fall off; or (2) although you didn't climb the Young, you could have if you thought it was the best line, and doing so wouldn't have been harder than what you did climb. This makes your blog come across as somewhat disingenuous at worst or poorly-written at best. It reads as deliberate deception in order to big up your achievement. This might not be true, but it's the way it comes across.Quote from: countyyoungin on March 26, 2019, 08:44:00 pm :chair:I suppose in my mind I wouldn’t be done until I had completed it from bottom to top like Andy did it originally. If your trying to get the same experience as the FA then that’s where youv got to climb. But what ever floats your boat really I suppose, like I said the top would have been very exiting non the less so kudos for that. But you know what I think I wanted to stick to my guns that day and tried it from the start Andy used rather than the crack (I think I had one go like that but kind of felt like I was ruining the challenge for myself and put in a half arsed effort) but that’s just because I wanted to do what Earl did to prove to myself I could climb it like him. For me it’s about aiming to improve or meet standard. That’s what drove me (and Alex) to do that dark side like we did. Is there still room for improvement? Definitely but I don’t think Franco’s that arsed he did want he wanted to doIn short, he didn't do The Young. The rest of this comes across as bragging and excuse making for having not done it - there's no need.Quote from: FrancoI'd been wondering for a while which line was bestSorry but I really struggle to believe this. Going up the center is the obvious line and the obvious challenge. In my mind, it is far more contrived to say 'you're allowed the crack up to there, but then you have to leave it' than to say 'just don't use the crack'.Quote from: FrancoI see why as a boulder problem, you want to climb the whole thing, but the top feels like a route, so maybe it's kinda caught in limbo. Really? Surely part of the challenge of doing it is the difficulty, whether it's a route or a boulder. The bottom boulder adds considerable difficulty to the climb as a whole and would have made the top harder.I don't mean to take away from what you did, only to try and make it clear where the contention has arisen.
Am I correct?
Devils advocate here, do you think maybe it’s because alongside the very honest description of what he did there is a blog post titled with a route name that he didn’t do and an awful lot of description about the legendary status of a route that he didn’t do? And a name and a grade written in the Instagram post, again of a route he didn’t climb?It just seems odd to publiscise something he describes as personally meaningful in that way, when you haven’t done the legendary route in question.
Franco, just call it an FA and call it a day. The Foung 7C, 3 stars. If the start to the other problem does fall apart then your line becomes the star attraction