I think the improvement for me took the realisation that it was not going to recover fully.
Quote from: teapot on March 26, 2019, 10:57:02 amI think the improvement for me took the realisation that it was not going to recover fully.Yeah, I have this on two fingers too (not pulley injuries though). It took some emotional trauma to come to terms with the realisation that I needed to climb/train on what I could do rather than what I wanted to do. I think you have to manipulate your motivation to not get psyched for things you know will be dangerous, since the comedown of then realising you can't really do those things is sucky (1st world problems and all that, but it does matter if climbing is a big deal to you)One is an old collateral/PIP injury on my right hand which has been re-injured various times - this isn't a major limiting issue on individual moves, but I do have to keep on top of it as it gets swollen/sore relatively easily. E.g. I can crimp on it, but I couldn't climb hard crimpy stuff every day, or train heavily on crimps, or use back 3 half-crimp safely, and I suspect it will always mean that the hardest fingery stuff is no longer an option as I can't knuckle down (no pun intended) and focus on this style. Also means twisty monos are incredibly dangerous and I struggle to train front 2 on smaller holds. Often if I have a big session where I piss it off I then need to just do 3 finger drag the next time I climb/train to let it calm down and reduce the swellingOn the left hand I have a volar plate injury which healed, then seemed to "stretch" a bit, rather than rupture. The consultant basically said that they couldn't tell me whether I was likely to rupture it again but it may now be more prone to it. ...Both those injuries mean that I can't train and climb as I would like to - you can't just pick what you want to do based on whatever you fancy, and what you want to train based on what you want to work on .
Alex do you know why you got these injuries? I suspect I have very similar problems albeit I'm climbing only F7b vs your level! Several of my knuckles are basically permanently swollen at the side and have what I'd describe as lateral instability. They were diagnosed previously as early onset arthritis but I actually suspect they are recurrent collateral ligament and volar plate injuries. I have a big disparity between ring and little fingers, also mid finger is quite a bit longer than first and ring fingers - I wonder if I torque my fingers to try to maximise force due to disparity in lengths. I also have flexible/hyperflexible DIP joints when crimping - analogous to dropping a heel when toeing in on a board - so may be this predisposes me to more finger injuries.