[spidermonkey09]

Now there's an oxymoron!

Good point; now amended:

in the interest of keeping training interesting varied I'm going to try and do some campusing over the next few months

[jwi]

Mon Mar 19
Hangboard
Door frame in the hotel. Flat first phalanx. Max hangs + pullups + frontlevers
Wen Mar 21
Bouldering gym, Stronghold
Bouldering, mostly flashes and some harder comp boulders
Some hangboarding + campusing to try out the equipment
Setting and attempting a circuit on the 45 degree board
Fri Mar 23
Bouldering gym, Stronghold
Bouldering
Some hangboarding + campusing. Could do 1-4-7 fairly easy on juggy rungs, but not on smallest rungs (which were still enormous). Weak fingers. Decent arms.
15 move problem x 3, r=4min.
Felt weak, tired and uninspired. Unsurprising after teaching 30 hours in 5 days.
Sun mar 25
Cragging Alliat
6b+ warm up
Tried an 8a x 2, but quite sure that something has fallen off the crux as I couldn’t do the moves. The crux must be at least font 7c as I tried it. I did the moves 4-5 years ago, and I’m pretty sure I wasn’t stronger that year.
7b+/c onsight attempt.
7b.
Was really really tired after a very hard week work wise.

Overall not a good week for training, but good for the wallet.

[shark]

Going to pull my finger out and have another go at Piss tomorrow afternoon as conditions look mint

Sent ! 

I’d forgotten what success felt like and it felt pretty damn good

Bit disconcerting just before the send when midges started to appear.

[Will Hunt]

Shark tops out a rock! 
Somebody call Jens!

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - Pull ups, EMOM 5x22. Push ups, EMOM 5x11.
Tue - rest.
Wed - one arm pull ups. Clean and press.
Thu - overhead walk 1/1 x5, EMOM snatch pulls 5x10.
Fri - BM PE medium, big rung 10/10, small rung 10/10 x6 x4. Abs in between.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - rest.

[jamesturnbull97]

No climbing at all this week just simply trough lack of motivation.
Mon/Sat/Sun: Work
Tues - Friday: Digging and riding at the local trails, Friday was especially good with all the boys down so had a big session with lots of trains down the trails in really nice condition.

[cheque]

Cheque - again, your rehab diaries are inspiring. Well done on pb!

Cheers man. I’ll say this for recovering from catastrophic injury- it’s good for feeling like you’re making progress! It’s basically the opposite of being in a performance plateau. 

[Dolly]

Nice one Shark
Haven’t posted in ages as my back has stopped me from climbing outside really
Anyway last week started to get a bit better so...
M shed power with shoulder and forearm antagonist later
T
W big crimpy shed session
T
F Kinell I climbed outside! Went to church crag did the warm ups managed not to do my back and did Pockets which is soft for the grade but so what.  and I er had fun
S Kettlebells and core stuff at gym
S shed power again

[James Malloch]

Yeah right. You'll be back running laps on the mock tomorrow evening.

I definitively will not! Thursday, perhaps, although Mock might be a project again now 

On a more general note, in the interest of keeping training interesting I'm going to try and do some campusing over the next few months, on the basis this should help maintain an element of explosive power which might be useful on routes. I have never done any of this (only foot on laddering) so an idiots guide would be much appreciated. Do I start on the medium rungs or on the big ones and graduate down? What rungs and reps are a good starter point?

Hey Jim - far from an expert on this but I went through a campus phase a year or so ago which resulted in me getting injured - doh!

However what I did was basically the below. This was a "progression chart" which is pretty much loads of sequences in order of difficulty. So I started at the top and then worked down. I put it on a table with three columns - small, medium and large rungs - and started on the large until I could do 1-3-5 easily and then moved onto trying the odd one on the medium rungs whilst trying harder versions on the large rungs.

I didn't move onto the next one until I could do it 3 times in a row leading with each hand. I did 3 sets in a session where 1 set consisted as 6 attempts at something (e.g. 1-3-5), alternating leading with each arm.

I found it pretty brutal but was totally crap when I did it and hadn't done any campusing before.

1-2-3
1-3-4
1-2-4
1-3-5
1-4-5
1-2-5
1-4-6
1-3-6
1-5-6
1-4-7
1-5-7
1-3-7
1-4-8
1-5-8
1-5-9

[tommytwotone]

Goal: 3 x new (to me) Font 7as this year


Absolutely sod all this week - between a car MOT, then the resultant trips to get repairs done, then getting a foul cold midweek I had neither the time nor the psyche.


Similarly hectic week this week but am in office today and have time, so off to gym on lunch.

[duncan]

STG: Manage aches and pains. One session of strength (bouldering and/or fingerboard), one of long endurance, one of leading routes incorporating some falling every week.
MTG: Colorado bucket list routes in May, a classic E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.

M - Westway bouldering. Flashed a purple ‘V3/4’ (a slab, so probably Font 3+ IRL). Mostly a good session but tweaked shoulder again at the end.
T - Brisk 10km walk.
W - Very short fingerboard session (pick-ups). Shoulder strength (Is, Ys and Ts on the rings; side planks; single arm push-ups).
T - Shoulder strength. 10km brisk walking.
F - Westway routes. Gentle session on the autobelay to check shoulder.
S - Shoulder strength. 4km slow walk from Hyde Park to Parliament Square.
S - Winspit with the Seans. Excellent company and glorious weather. Seepy in places and a bit greasy early but dried over the day. Sleep deprived and not very psyched but led 8 routes. Shoulder was fine and it’s all money in the bank. Power-fade at ~60 second quite marked; on the other hand post-pump recovery seems fairly quick. Also learned a new climbing term: “London Slack” (the sport equivalent of the Yorkshire Spot).

Plan: continue building the strength and long endurance base. Add onsight leading to start regaining some short endurance.

Question for tomtom - or anyone else - what are you doing for your hip flexibility? Some means of objectively measuring progress would be motivating. I have my own ideas but I’m curious as to what others are doing. 80% of hip flexibility exercises claimed to be relevant for climbing are complete pish (almost as laughably non-specific as the so-called core training promoted by some well-known people who should know better). For example: the ubiquitous downward facing dog. How can anyone keep a straight face and claim this has any benefit for their climbing?

[Yossarian]

Two weeks...

M - Wall. Shoulder feeling ok but general lack of ooomph. Tried some harder comp wall problems. Not amazingly productive.
T - Beastmaker repeaters - mini session as fingers a bit sore
W - 120 pull-ups. Tried some kettlebell shoulder press / dips, but shoulder hurting so stopped.
T
F
S - Wall. Decent session on a new set of problems. Flashed a decent amount, and then picked two harder problems to session. Also tried the hardest gold (7C?) which I thought would be beyond me, but actually linked a few moves. Felt quite strong on another hard crimpy roof problem which I wasn’t expecting. Pleased.
S
M - Wall. Finished one of the projects from Sat after 5 falls from top move. Linked a bit more of hard gold problem, but following mono move may well be beyond me. Shoulder twinges, etc.
T - Shoulder feeling painful again.
W - Started Beastmaker session but not recovered.
T - The Reach. Session on autobelays. Flashed all the autobelays up to / inc a couple of the 7as. One got away, along with the only harder thing (7a+). All the 7s were on a vertical section of wall which was a pain in the arse, as it was basically all slopey crimpy tech stuff, rather than pumpier / bigger moves. I think the Whiter Spider is much better for that sort of thing - will pop over before too long.
F - Beastmaker - repeaters / max hangs to -20kg. Did 5x of those, though still feeling heavy.
S - Wall. Feeling a bit wasted. New slab set, so focused on technique / footwork and managed a reasonable amount of stuff.
S

I’ve avoided steep board, campus, prolonged steep climbing, harder circuit board problems recently as all those seem to be irritating my painful shoulder. It’s still not getting better, so I probably ought to go and see a physio about it. I know exactly how I did it - a steep rockover into a powerful RH gaston with a straightish arm - on a problem I was hammering over and over again over a few sessions. Something I will be much more cautious about in future.

Hoping to get back to some endurance training again soon, as I have some more dates for sport climbing days out over the next few weeks.

Weight dipped to 86.x kg for a bit, though seemed to creep back up again. That said, I now fit into 30” waist jeans - something that has not happened since I was in my mid teens.

[Duma]

Weight dipped to 86.x kg for a bit, though seemed to creep back up again. That said, I now fit into 30” waist jeans

How tall are you Yoss? or do you just have enormous shoulders??

[Yossarian]

6ft3

Sometimes, standing on the scales, I do wonder whether I’m an unsuspecting host to a colony of parasites constructing some sort of concrete-based habitat within my innards.

[highrepute]

Not posted in a while as not been on Voyager. Excuses are plentiful too busy, too tired, too warm, too wet, hole in my finger, and so on... but in truth think my motivation has ran out for the season.

Just checked the weather and Sunday early morning looks possible. One last session for this season? I should really fully invest.

Have been out a few times enjoying the sunshine, have the tan lines to prove it. Highlight includes... Gritstone Megamix 7a at Birchen which I've always struggled with and complained that's it's reachy. Clearly it's not reachy and some beta/encouragement from the right people saw me up it.

Had a few good sessions on the Heeley boulder. Recording a nice little circuit with a vague idea to hold a little friendly comp one evening over the summer. Any interest?

[Duma]

Highlight includes... Gritstone Megamix 7a at Birchen...

So good isn't it!?

Yoss - that makes a bit more sense now! (I'm a 31" waist but 17kg lighter than you - 6" height diff explains a lot)

[Yossarian]

Yoss - that makes a bit more sense now! (I'm a 31" waist but 17kg lighter than you - 6" height diff explains a lot)

It does, although it also blows my mind when I hear about the Mooses of this world who are tall and weigh so little. I think I can get down to 80ish, possibly 78 for a short period, but no more.

On a similar topic, I’ve been musing over a Lettuce post on Instagram from late last year, when they announced the highest total load measured on the Lettuce Leaf was 85kg. I’d be interested to hear about non-Lettuce-measured beefy outliers who do bodyweight or higher max hangs. Because otherwise it seems extremely unlikely that I’ll ever get down to single figures in kg unless I get substantially thinner or very strong.

[jwi]

On a similar topic, I’ve been musing over a Lettuce post on Instagram from late last year, when they announced the highest total load measured on the Lettuce Leaf was 85kg. I’d be interested to hear about non-Lettuce-measured beefy outliers who do bodyweight or higher max hangs. Because otherwise it seems extremely unlikely that I’ll ever get down to single figures in kg unless I get substantially thinner or very strong.

I know a guy who did 8b+ when weighing 100kg. I'd be surprised if he couldn't pull 85kg from a decent edge.

Klem Loskot strikes me as someone who could have fairly strong hands in absolute numbers.

[Yossarian]

On a similar topic, I’ve been musing over a Lettuce post on Instagram from late last year, when they announced the highest total load measured on the Lettuce Leaf was 85kg. I’d be interested to hear about non-Lettuce-measured beefy outliers who do bodyweight or higher max hangs. Because otherwise it seems extremely unlikely that I’ll ever get down to single figures in kg unless I get substantially thinner or very strong.

I know a guy who did 8b+ when weighing 100kg. I'd be surprised if he couldn't pull 85kg from a decent edge.

Klem Loskot strikes me as someone who could have fairly strong hands in absolute numbers.

In the words of General Zod, Who is this Superman?

I imagine Jan Hojer and Jimmy Webb could probably do more than 85kg too. But elite level wads aside, I’m curious as to whether any strong punters have reached such dizzying heights...

[jwi]