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Valhalla is free (Read 2175 times)

jwi

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Valhalla is free
March 20, 2019, 10:25:51 pm
Edu Marín has freed his project Valhalla in Getu, China, after six months of work.

14 pitches. 7b+, 7a , 8a+ , 7c+ , 9a+, 8b+ , 8a , 8c+ , 8a+ , 8b , 8a+, 8c+ , 8a+ , 8a+ .

Ged

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#1 Re: Valhalla is free
March 21, 2019, 07:26:01 am
Wow.  They are some big numbers.  Hardest multi pitch in the world?

Any links?

HaeMeS

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#2 Re: Valhalla is free
March 21, 2019, 07:43:03 am
In a day that is, cause he freed the individual pitches some time ago. Impressive!

bigironhorse

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#3 Re: Valhalla is free
March 21, 2019, 07:56:50 am
Impressive indeed!  :strongbench:

jwi

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#4 Re: Valhalla is free
March 21, 2019, 08:19:26 am
In a day that is, cause he freed the individual pitches some time ago. Impressive!

A route is not climbed in free unless all pitches are climbed free in order. This has always been my understanding?

In the alps it usually did not count as free unless the integral ascent was without falls on any pitch, but I think this has been abandoned in search of bigger numbers that are more understandable for retarded swedish psychopaths that run websites?

sdm

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#5 Re: Valhalla is free
March 21, 2019, 08:20:47 am
Wow.  They are some big numbers.  Hardest multi pitch in the world?

Any links?

There's a little bit of footage on his instagram.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BvPFaIQIO-b/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

(warning: horrible strobe effects at the start)

teestub

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#6 Re: Valhalla is free
March 21, 2019, 08:51:40 am
Wow.  They are some big numbers.  Hardest multi pitch in the world?

Dawn Wall has:
2 9a pitches
1 8c+
3 8b+
3 8b

Not sure how you would even begin to compare two such different but equally impressive climbs!

Muenchener

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#7 Re: Valhalla is free
March 21, 2019, 09:28:07 am
Doesn't the Dawn Wall also involve falling on copperheads? Which strikes me as an utterly appalling idea. Or is that only on the "easy" pitches"


lagerstarfish

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#9 Re: Valhalla is free
March 21, 2019, 11:05:52 am
a thousand foot roof!

Fiend

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#10 Re: Valhalla is free
March 21, 2019, 11:17:52 am
Sounds & looks awesome.

Neil F

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#11 Re: Valhalla is free
March 21, 2019, 08:59:19 pm
What an amazing athletic achievement....

However, does anyone else think the horizontal roof climbing with endless changes of direction actually looks shite?

Or am I missing something?!

Neil

hansmaro

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#12 Re: Valhalla is free
March 21, 2019, 10:18:04 pm
Completely agree. While an amazing athletic performance, in some ways the route strikes me as somewhat vulgar. Yosemite granite has infinitely more class. Can't explain why, its just a gut feeling I have. That being said, I've never really enjoyed limestone sport...

bendavison

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#13 Re: Valhalla is free
March 22, 2019, 10:39:59 am
I think it's really difficult to a get a sense for what the route is like from those videos. I suspect it is one of the most impressive rock features anywhere.

monkoffunk

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#14 Re: Valhalla is free
March 22, 2019, 10:48:16 am
Think it looks fantastic, and the distance shots make it look like an amazing feature.

SA Chris

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#15 Re: Valhalla is free
March 22, 2019, 10:58:24 am
It looks the opposite end of the style spectrum to Dawn Wall, but I suspect follows a line of weakness and is more logical to climb than looking at it.

Doylo

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#16 Re: Valhalla is free
March 22, 2019, 10:59:26 am
I can confirm funky 3D roof climbing is a lot more fun than climbing on razor knife blades (with taped up tips) even if does look ‘shite’ and ‘vulgar’.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2019, 11:07:56 am by Doylo »

fatneck

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#17 Re: Valhalla is free
March 22, 2019, 03:03:37 pm
I don't think it looks shite or vulgar...

AMorris

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#18 Re: Valhalla is free
March 22, 2019, 03:03:45 pm
Bloody heck that's quite some roof :o

hugely hugely impressive feat and I dunno what others are on about, I reckon it looks glorious!

Danny

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#19 Re: Valhalla is free
March 22, 2019, 09:53:01 pm
Incredible looking route. Love the unrepentant cheese-fest edits that characterise the Spanish wad videos. Jarring neon colours, power screaming, dramatic self-serious tunes, staged high five drone footage. Etc.

SA Chris

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#20 Re: Valhalla is free
March 25, 2019, 09:41:01 am
‘shite’ and ‘vulgar’.

I'm shite and vulgar, but still fun to climb with. Does that count?

Will Hunt

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#21 Re: Valhalla is free
March 25, 2019, 11:01:12 am
That's one to remember your prussiks on. Good to see some Dawn Wall style downclimbing going on around the 7th and 8th pitches.

jwi

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#22 Re: Valhalla is free
March 25, 2019, 11:56:52 am
Quote from: Grimper Magazine
Let's be clear, it is almost certain that these numbers have been inflated to increase the media effect of the ascent. If this is not the case, Edu Marin has unquestionably authored one of the greatest achievements in the history of climbing; only future repetitions of the route will allow us to know...