[jamesturnbull97]

M - Mtb at Grenoside and Parkwood in Sheff
T- Depot eve, good session of the 50. Usual suspects and usual Palmer based problems, made up a few more problems to try.
W. Another trip to the Works for a motherboard session. Did a few more of the 7b+'s, cant remember the names. Then managed to do one of the 8a's (Fairy something?) without banging on about grades seemed like it was fairly soft but who knows.
F. Quick ride at the local trail at Adel

That's about it for this week, struggled with getting psyched not really sure why just not feeling it. ankle seems like it's starting to play up again which is just starting to frustrate me now more than 3 months on.

[jwi]

Tue Mar 13
Climbing outdoors, Super Manjoc
6c
8b+ bolt to bolt
8b+ attempt, fell on last hard move, touching the jug
8b+ attempt, fell on last hard move, touching the jug. Should have done it. Flopped of with rh on intermediate.
8b+ attempt, fell on last hard move, barely touching the jug. Worst attempt of the three

Wed Mar 14
Hangboard
Due to flappers, only training front 3 in half crimp
-17kg 10s lh   -17kg 10s rh
-13kg 10s (2-3s) lh   -14kg 10s (0s) rh   Much harder on right, even with lower load.
-13kg 10s (2s) lh   -15kg 10s (0s) rh   Still harder on right, might have blown it with previous set
-13kg 10s (2s) lh   -17kg 10s (2s) rh   

Thur Mar 15
Bouldering gym
Struggling to do anything for 2 hours. Did one the hard end of the white circuit. Was planning to do repeats on longer problems, but couldn’t find anything interesting and steep on the new set

Sat Mar 17
Climbing outdoors, Super Manjoc
6c
8b+ bolt to bolt
8b+ attempt, held the glory jug with the middle finger for a glorious second before falling off. Impossible to get closer without actually doing the route
8b+ attempt, fell two moves from top.
8b+ attempt. Barely got through the first half up to the midway rest. Ridiculously tired.
Should have done the route on the first go, then I rapidly lost all fitness. It’s been a long time since I haven’t been able to have more than one good go in a day.
Blaming high levels of pollen. I haven’t been this skinny in 15 years.

[SA Chris]

Ah cheers, yeah think it's tennis side. Will look at those!

First thing I would recommend is to get a good sports massage to loosen up specifically forearms, but rest of arms plus shoulders. I think this was pivotal in my recovery. Then stretch forearms religiously, do the brachioradialis stretch in that Dr Saunders article. and regularly work the trigger points and rest of forearm with a foam roller.

[tomtom]

Ah cheers, yeah think it's tennis side. Will look at those!

First thing I would recommend is to get a good sports massage to loosen up specifically forearms, but rest of arms plus shoulders. I think this was pivotal in my recovery. Then stretch forearms religiously, do the brachioradialis stretch in that Dr Saunders article. and regularly work the trigger points and rest of forearm with a foam roller.

I’ve got this coops. Also have a look at fiends forearm thread (he’s got the same) happy to share more on how I’m managing mine when I’m back in the UK (and have some time)

[seankenny]

Ah cheers, yeah think it's tennis side. Will look at those!

First thing I would recommend is to get a good sports massage to loosen up specifically forearms, but rest of arms plus shoulders. I think this was pivotal in my recovery. Then stretch forearms religiously, do the brachioradialis stretch in that Dr Saunders article. and regularly work the trigger points and rest of forearm with a foam roller.

I’ve got this coops. Also have a look at fiends forearm thread (he’s got the same) happy to share more on how I’m managing mine when I’m back in the UK (and have some time)

I've had a nasty bout of tennis elbow, did all the things mentioned already but also bought an ergonomic mouse: https://amzn.to/2HHEw8s

A normal mouse leaves the hand slightly cocked upwards and seemed to irritate the elbow with constant slight strain. The new one is a considerable improvement. On the recommendation of my physio I got a tiny foam roller that is perfect for forearms:
https://amzn.to/2TOcFuO

[Coops_13]

Cheers all, yeah just bought the foam roller and will look at the other points. Think (and hope) mine isn't chronic so a bit of this regular work should be enough.

[AMorris]

Ah cheers, yeah think it's tennis side. Will look at those!

First thing I would recommend is to get a good sports massage to loosen up specifically forearms, but rest of arms plus shoulders. I think this was pivotal in my recovery. Then stretch forearms religiously, do the brachioradialis stretch in that Dr Saunders article. and regularly work the trigger points and rest of forearm with a foam roller.

I’ve got this coops. Also have a look at fiends forearm thread (he’s got the same) happy to share more on how I’m managing mine when I’m back in the UK (and have some time)

Yeah I found this too. A really deep tissue massage (self administered and brutal) at the muscle bulb of the ME and down into the muscle belly of the forearm did a huge amount to reduce tension and relieve some soreness.

[IanP]

Yeah I found this too. A really deep tissue massage (self administered and brutal) at the muscle bulb of the ME and down into the muscle belly of the forearm did a huge amount to reduce tension and relieve some soreness.

Completely anecdotal and non scientific but my elbows have been the best they've been in years (decades actually!) and the main change has been regular self administered massage round the elbow area and forearm.   This has included a period where time off allowed me to significantly increase the amount of climbing I did.

[SA Chris]

I would say the most common in climbers is some kind of tendonitis or tendonosis of the medial epicondyle (unfortunately I have the latter).

Apparently it's rarely one or the other, so tendinopathy describes a combination. So I've been told.

[AMorris]

I would say the most common in climbers is some kind of tendonitis or tendonosis of the medial epicondyle (unfortunately I have the latter).

Apparently it's rarely one or the other, so tendinopathy describes a combination. So I've been told.

I partially agree. Tendonosis tends to follow prolonged tendonitis, and people don't usually pack the activity in altogether when they develop it, so they end up with both acute inflammation and chronic degeneration.

However, tendonitis commonly presents without tendonosis, but it's transient enough that people don't complain about it or seek specialist opinion unless it develops into tendonosis.