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Boulder Britain reprint (Read 12978 times)

teestub

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#25 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 08, 2019, 07:13:52 pm
In all seriousness, making coverage of the honeypots slimmer and more austere and highlighting gems to spread the load a bit may be a good idea. Maybe.

"Here's a guidebook to the whole country where we've skimped on detail on the best crags, but included some esoteric gems that you may enjoy, if you find them in condition, and don't mind the walk in"  Sounds like a bestseller for sure...

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#26 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 08, 2019, 07:23:45 pm
Yes that's exactly what I meant, I should have just typed that instead of what I actually typed  ::) ::) ::)

It was just a thought. Proper modern guidebooks e.g. BMC YMC GroundUP etc have done such a great job of clarifying and showing the diversity of venues and climbs available beyond select honeypots. Yes this is a select guide before someone points out the entirely sodding obvious but I'm sure it can give a nudge towards broader exploration - as apparently it already does according to g-dawg. So maybe a superfluous thought huh.

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#27 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 08, 2019, 07:24:56 pm
Sorry Grimer other than that I have nothing useful to contribute as bouldering sucks and I buy the definitive area guides anyway. But great on you that it's getting a reprint.

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#28 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 08, 2019, 07:54:03 pm
:worms: Are you sure you want to create all this extra work for yourself Grimer?

In Godrevy - ‘U R Hot’ is no more (it fell down), probably needs a new topo photo & the LPT boulder should be in.

Tintagel - Has had a reset (since the ‘apprentice’ and other boulders got washed away from the base of the boulder), a detailed topo for (the main attraction) the Purple Haze boulder with lots of squiggly lines would be cool. ‘Kids’ is no longer possible since the ‘apprentice’ got washed under it (you win some you lose some).

There has been loadsa development down in Kernowfornia.  Dreamboat etc. at Priest’s Cove is apparently very good.  The locals don’t seem that keen on sharing anything too wide, rumour has it someone is preparing a guide and I guess there maybe more to develop. Besides they don’t want no outziders coming down and spoiling their fun.

Hartland - Carnage wall and Acheball cave need the same treatment as the boulder at Tintagel.

Bonehill - The Wave needs the same and the current squiggly lines are wildly inaccurate. Tsunami, Peahi etc.. all should be in.

Saddle Tor - Needs updating with new lines from Sqwirl and Mikey C.

Lynmouth - The Giza block should be in.

There are outlying areas along the Exmoor Coast that may be worth a short write up.  (One absolute banger of an area that is only in condition in the summer months).

Gollum’s Cave - Waste of ink? I went once whilst my wife was at the uni, I found it, was part underwhelmed and part in fear for my life. I beat a hasty retreat.

Giblin’s - Replace Gollum’s with this.

Hurlstone Point - near Minehead, worth a shout for folk wanting to escape Butlin’s for some reliable, weather proof, non-tidal, steepness.

I agree entirely with Brutus on the first three points  :2thumbsup:

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#29 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 08, 2019, 08:03:24 pm
Hi grimer thanks for asking. I’ve found the guidebook very useful and am grateful that you went to the effort. A couple of things I’d like to feedback:

Judging by numbers of ticks, Pump traverse 6B+ could do with being included at RAC Boulders. I wish I’d have known about that one when I visited.

Eskdale Fisherground is described as a happy family place good for beginners but that wasn’t really my experience - the main bit of easy climbing there on the diamond is very high so not for beginners at all. There was no way I was climbing up it above one pad. Nice place, just not for beginners IMO.

There’s a typo on the Bowderstone page “An axis of evil could be drawn from the Bowderstone in the Lakes to Parisella’s Cave in *the* Wales, along which many power Nazis would happily spend their lives travelling.”

Everything else spot on! :thumbsup:


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#30 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 08, 2019, 11:35:35 pm
Mega mega thanks all, very much. And I might just reprint the old one I’ll have to assess resources.

But don’t worry fiend, I’ll cover esotria in my next select guide, E6 6a. You never know, a few E8 6bs might sneak in.

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#31 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 09, 2019, 12:03:55 am
Giblin’s - Replace Gollum’s with this.

I guess that's a typo and you meant Biblins? If so Id agree it'd be a good addition, some of the best bouldering in the bristol area (not that that's saying a lot!)

Quote
Gollum’s Cave - Waste of ink? I went once whilst my wife was at the uni, I found it, was part underwhelmed and part in fear for my life. I beat a hasty retreat.

Sounds like a run of the mill Gollum's cave experience! Personally I really enjoy BB for the funny little esoteric crags like this. It'd be a bit dry if it only included 'good' crags.

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#32 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 09, 2019, 07:02:37 am
Hi Niall, it's a great guide, thanks for doing it.

If you keep Wetherby in there is a slight error with Lipo Suction - it starts at the bottom of problem no. 3 which is quite a bit further left than where you have it marked.

If you can be bothered, it would be good to include another eastern lime venue or 2 as other than Anston, none of the other venues are covered in guide and you can't even get the anston guide anymore!

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#33 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 09, 2019, 10:17:31 am
I think someone mentioned earlier but there is a mistake on the line for Really Cool Toys at Porth Ysgo. The line coming in from the right is about a 4, not a 7A.

I would add in Biblins, it's the best decent sized bouldering venue in the Bristol area.

For Eastern lime, you could add Anston and Roche Abbey.

For peak lime, maybe The P?

For the backwater of the Midlands, you could include Cademan Woods. It's esoteric as hell but it's a far better venue than Beacon Hill and has the most variety in the area, especially at the lower grades. If you're interested in adding to the coverage at existing crags, there has been a lot of development at Forest Rock since the first edition.

Actually, just leave all of them out so parking/access doesn't become more of an issue  :2thumbsup:

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#34 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 09, 2019, 11:52:26 am
To fill some gaps geographically and in info coverage anything that included Somerset coast and Gower would be useful.

shark

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#35 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 09, 2019, 11:54:45 am
In all seriousness, making coverage of the honeypots slimmer and more austere and highlighting gems to spread the load a bit may be a good idea. Maybe.

"Here's a guidebook to the whole country where we've skimped on detail on the best crags, but included some esoteric gems that you may enjoy, if you find them in condition, and don't mind the walk in"  Sounds like a bestseller for sure...

It could work if it provides info unavailable elsewhere.

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#36 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 09, 2019, 12:55:47 pm
It looks like I will need to reprint Boulder Britain some time in the near / medium future.

I was just wondering if people are aware of any errors or updates etc that would need addressing from the current edition?

Yes you spelt my name wrong on the Green Traverse photo!  :)

SA Chris

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#37 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 11, 2019, 09:23:55 am
If there's space for more of Scotland Loch Buie might be a good addition? It's a lush spot, great rock and problems and the sort of place you might end up on holiday with the fam.

Do a lot of people really frequent it? Would have though Mull was a bit of an outlier?

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#38 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 11, 2019, 12:32:13 pm
For a Highland or Island bouldering spot? Definitely. At least half a dozen people last year. Behind reiff kishorn and torridon its the best bouldering I've done in Scotland.

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#39 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 11, 2019, 03:44:18 pm
At least half a dozen people last year.

Half a dozen people visited it in a year??

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#40 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 11, 2019, 05:01:35 pm
At least! Me and Nick, Joe went in the summer, and probably others! To be fair even the likes of kishorn and coire nan arr can't have have seen loads more visits?

I know Im banging on about the place a bit but it is quality there. The nose of the mushroom boulder is worth going for alone




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#41 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 11, 2019, 06:39:15 pm
Have you visited Clemmitt's etc?

Clemmitt's has actually been banned for a year or so. I'm not sure if this is set to change in the future, but might affect whether you choose to include it or not.

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#42 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 11, 2019, 07:48:31 pm
Have you visited Clemmitt's etc?

Clemmitt's has actually been banned for a year or so. I'm not sure if this is set to change in the future, but might affect whether you choose to include it or not.
Mentioned on the first page.

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#43 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 11, 2019, 09:03:21 pm
Have you visited Clemmitt's etc?

Clemmitt's has actually been banned for a year or so. I'm not sure if this is set to change in the future, but might affect whether you choose to include it or not.
Mentioned on the first page.

Missed that, apologies.

webbo

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#44 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 11, 2019, 09:15:30 pm
Maybe it should be swopped  for Finkestones, Freyers  Nab and Fairy’s something or other as there seems to be a lot of new stuff that’s been done there.

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#45 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 12, 2019, 09:23:53 am
Is there anywhere that is actually shitter than I have made it sound?

This is so UK bouldering.
Cornwall thoughts:


Tintagel could/should be updated with the disappearance of the obstructing blocks and masses of new hard stuff.

I think Priest's Cove should deffo be in despite limited quantity, because it's all ***. Especially if the likes of Gwynver are still in (well described, BTW, and a funnily apt start to the guide).

Ur Hot at Godrevy fell down years ago. 

Maybe add Luxulyan (Tom Last has a good free guide for this) and mention Bodmin stuff. TBH, I'm no fan of the moorland granite down here, but folk seem to like it.



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#46 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 12, 2019, 09:26:43 am
:worms: Are you sure you want to create all this extra work for yourself Grimer?

In Godrevy - ‘U R Hot’ is no more (it fell down), probably needs a new topo photo & the LPT boulder should be in.

Tintagel - Has had a reset (since the ‘apprentice’ and other boulders got washed away from the base of the boulder), a detailed topo for (the main attraction) the Purple Haze boulder with lots of squiggly lines would be cool. ‘Kids’ is no longer possible since the ‘apprentice’ got washed under it (you win some you lose some).

There has been loadsa development down in Kernowfornia.  Dreamboat etc. at Priest’s Cove is apparently very good.  The locals don’t seem that keen on sharing anything too wide, rumour has it someone is preparing a guide and I guess there maybe more to develop. Besides they don’t want no outziders coming down and spoiling their fun.

Hartland - Carnage wall and Acheball cave need the same treatment as the boulder at Tintagel.

Bonehill - The Wave needs the same and the current squiggly lines are wildly inaccurate. Tsunami, Peahi etc.. all should be in.

Saddle Tor - Needs updating with new lines from Sqwirl and Mikey C.

Lynmouth - The Giza block should be in.

There are outlying areas along the Exmoor Coast that may be worth a short write up.  (One absolute banger of an area that is only in condition in the summer months).

Gollum’s Cave - Waste of ink? I went once whilst my wife was at the uni, I found it, was part underwhelmed and part in fear for my life. I beat a hasty retreat.

Giblin’s - Replace Gollum’s with this.

Hurlstone Point - near Minehead, worth a shout for folk wanting to escape Butlin’s for some reliable, weather proof, non-tidal, steepness.

Doh. What BtB said.

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#47 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 12, 2019, 09:30:55 am
because it's all ***.

I just spent a moment trying to figure out which explicit you were censoring...

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#48 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 12, 2019, 10:55:13 am
I agree with the above posts on Cornwall there are definitely lots of gaps, with some good developments at all the main locations Hartland, Tintagel, Helman Tor, Carn Brea and Godrevy, not to mention all the new stuff on coastal granite of which the problems at Boscawen point and Priests cove are particularity good. I think if the strong youths combined with a potential increase in staycations could see a productive year for the SW. It might also kick the locals on to get a few long standing projects ticked!
Luxulyan has alot of potential however I think access is pretty sensitive, so might be a little soon to include it, best to speak to Tom Last about that. 

Is there also a case for making a North and South editions? It would allow for more venues, without turning it into the equivalent of caring a family bible about!  Drawing the line could :worms:

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#49 Re: Boulder Britain reprint
March 12, 2019, 01:34:14 pm
Is there also a case for making a North and South editions? It would allow for more venues, without turning it into the equivalent of caring a family bible about!  Drawing the line could :worms:

Sounds more like the SW needs a bouldering guide to me

 

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