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Madagascar (Tsaranoro) (Read 9937 times)

Paul B

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Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 06, 2019, 11:12:13 am
If the credit card company hadn't said "No" (3 times) on Monday night we'd have booked flights to Madagascar for June/July (around 2wks of climbing time), specifically to end up in Tsaranoro (flying to Antananarivo via CDG).

I think we're fairly set on going having enjoyed my big-route holidays last year far more than my sport climbing ones. However, UKBers seem to have been everywhere so I'd thought I'd sollicit advice before getting my card unblocked. Who's been? Out of Africa is the obvious target although I'll have to have a backup plan should we be moving slowly as a team (i.e. 2 headtorches!).

Does anyone have advice/experience with Antimalarials? I've heard some horror stories and don't want to spend $$$ to spend a few weeks vomiting wildly or any other side effects that'd make climbing more of a challenge.

petejh

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#1 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 06, 2019, 11:47:46 am
Can't comment on the area, but regards antimalarial drugs I avoided taking Larium when in Kenya due to friends having bad experiences on it - anxiety, sleeplessness, depression etc. The nhs site recommends trialing Larium for up to 3 weeks prior to leaving to see how it reacts with you.

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#2 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 06, 2019, 11:57:51 am
Does anyone have advice/experience with Antimalarials? I've heard some horror stories and don't want to spend $$$ to spend a few weeks vomiting wildly or any other side effects that'd make climbing more of a challenge.

I recently took atovaquone/proguanil - cost about £35 to cover a ten day trip - side effects seem to be pretty uncommon, and only needs to be taken two days before the trip and for a few days after.

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#3 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 06, 2019, 11:59:30 am
Loads of G&T/Irn Bru?

Paul B

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#4 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 06, 2019, 12:03:41 pm
Can't comment on the area, but regards antimalarial drugs I avoided taking Larium when in Kenya due to friends having bad experiences on it - anxiety, sleeplessness, depression etc. The nhs site recommends trialing Larium for up to 3 weeks prior to leaving to see how it reacts with you.

I recently took atovaquone/proguanil - cost about £35 to cover a ten day trip - side effects seem to be pretty uncommon, and only needs to be taken two days before the trip and for a few days after.

Thanks both.

A friend said he opted not to bother given the altitude (1000m) but I won't be taking that approach (even if having Natalie present is the best insect repellent in the world; she suffers a touch).

SA Chris

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#5 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 06, 2019, 12:52:46 pm
Isn't getting around a bit of a faff, terrible roads etc?

You can get all Attenbrough with the lemurs.

Paul B

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#6 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 06, 2019, 12:55:42 pm
Isn't getting around a bit of a faff, terrible roads etc?

You can get all Attenbrough with the lemurs.

It's arranged transport from the capital to the accommodation. It doesn't sound like it'll be a fun ride, that's for sure.

SA Chris

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#7 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 06, 2019, 03:45:23 pm
one less stress then!

FWIW I've taken assorted malaria prophylactics over the years for trips to Namibia and Botswana, and not had any side effects with any.

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#8 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 06, 2019, 03:53:01 pm
POD went fairly recently, he was raving about it.

SA Chris

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#9 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 06, 2019, 04:30:44 pm
Hopefully not an after effect of the malarial drugs.

Paul B

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#10 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 07, 2019, 10:15:35 am
POD went fairly recently, he was raving about it.

It hardly looks shit does it!

andy popp

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#11 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 07, 2019, 07:30:24 pm
Virtue signalling at its finest.

andy popp

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#12 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 07, 2019, 07:30:56 pm
ps. hope you have a fantastic time Paul.

Paul B

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#13 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 08, 2019, 10:08:28 am
From Tripadvisor (of all places):

 :lol:

Quote from: OliverD
It’s a bone-crunching 75 minute 20 kilometre drive by 4WD to reach here from the main road. The location is beautiful and there are plenty of ring-tailed lemurs leaping around the trees surrounding the bar area as dusk falls. And that’s about where the good news ends. The rooms are bungalows, and most (including ours) was extremely small – why, with all the land available, they built the smallest possible size, I have no idea. They are however tall, with a mezzanine with a single bed. Walls are plain brick. It’s like sleeping in a cell. There are even smaller “tents with roofs” (cheaper, but must be bitterly cold at night). We found later that they do have better and larger bungalows with real windows. The main bed is quite hard (but OK), but they don’t have real pillows – just a couple of small throw cushions. There is only light from 17:30 to 22:30, a single ceiling pendant makes it impossible to read in bed. Phones and cameras have to be charged back at the bar. The bathrooms are modern, but the water is barely warm. There is no wifi, and the only cellphone coverage is on the Telma 2G network, so no data (warning to anyone buying a SIM at the airport – don’t go with either of the other two operators, as out of the cities their coverage is much poorer). The food is pretty poor, and they even expect one to order breakfast (don’t get excited, just what time and how one wants eggs cooked) the evening before.

It's booked.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2022, 01:02:25 pm by shark »

petejh

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#14 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 08, 2019, 10:33:51 am
Quote from: OliverD
It’s a bone-crunching 75 minute 20 kilometre drive by 4WD to reach here from the main road. The location is beautiful and there are plenty of ring-tailed lemurs leaping around the trees surrounding the bar area as dusk falls. And that’s about where the good news ends. The rooms are bungalows, and most (including ours) was extremely small – why, with all the land available, they built the smallest possible size, I have no idea. They are however tall, with a mezzanine with a single bed. Walls are plain brick. It’s like sleeping in a cell. There are even smaller “tents with roofs” (cheaper, but must be bitterly cold at night). We found later that they do have better and larger bungalows with real windows. The main bed is quite hard (but OK), but they don’t have real pillows – just a couple of small throw cushions. There is only light from 17:30 to 22:30, a single ceiling pendant makes it impossible to read in bed. Phones and cameras have to be charged back at the bar. The bathrooms are modern, but the water is barely warm. There is no wifi, and the only cellphone coverage is on the Telma 2G network, so no data (warning to anyone buying a SIM at the airport – don’t go with either of the other two operators, as out of the cities their coverage is much poorer). The food is pretty poor, and they even expect one to order breakfast (don’t get excited, just what time and how one wants eggs cooked) the evening before.

Butlins Pwllheli, circa 1980?

cheque

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#15 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 08, 2019, 10:35:10 am
Robbie Phillips was updating the world live from his portaledge in Madagascar last year so that bit about data networks must be out of date.

andy_e

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#16 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 08, 2019, 02:05:11 pm
I wouldn't put it past Patagucci to have organised a satellite connection for him.

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#17 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 08, 2019, 09:19:39 pm
Makes you sick that stuff doesn't it. A few years ago my (now) wife and I went trekking in Nepal round the annapurna circuit. The first week follows a valley up to a town who's name I have forgotten, and a very basic road (dirt track really) is inching its way up towards the town, meaning what was once a week on foot is now a few hours in a jeep. Every German and Dutch (for some reason theybwere the predominant nationalities) trekker we met was bemoaning how the road was ruining the whole place, and how much of a tragedy it was. Every Nepali person we met thought it was pretty great that they were now connected with the rest of the world, and didn't have to hump loads on their backs for a week. Seems like sometimes us rich westies want other countries to delay their development so we can enjoy it as some sort of weird theme park.

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#18 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 08, 2019, 10:02:03 pm
I see where you're coming from, but you're a bit harsh maybe? I'm quite happy that Moskonesøya is only accessible by boat and that there are no roads. I like that there's a pocket of Lofoten where the climbing is a little bit more inconvenient to access, not so well described, and where some small sense of adventure can still be sustained. I do not particularly view the Norwegian countryside as a weird theme park. (Quite the contrary, it's the most economical and cultural successful rural part of Europe)

I have no idea of cell coverage in Madagascar but since it is 2019 I'd say that at least one provider has coverage


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#19 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 09, 2019, 01:57:34 pm
It's quite different when economic development is involved though.  And I don't think, no matter how remote, that Norwegians need to worry about that. 

Plus, with the greatest respect, my point was exactly that it's not really about what you think/like, it's about the people that live there.  A European trekker may much prefer a big valley into the mountains with no road.  A Nepali teenager raised in said valley will almost certainly relish, and have greater opportunities available to them, with said road.

SA Chris

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#20 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 11, 2019, 09:28:18 am
In a similar way, I think climbers weren't happy when the Skye bridge was built, as it took away the feel of going to Skye being an adventure, but I'm sure the residents were delighted.

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#21 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 13, 2019, 02:40:10 am
Went about a year and a half ago. When we went the topo compiled by Tobias Wolf (in the link below) was the best thing we had. Hopefully there is something better nowadays, but if you haven't seen it already it's definitely worth a look.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.steinfibel.de/madagascar/Tsaranoro_Valley_Collected_Tops_08_2016.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiAzJ-Twv3gAhUfQxUIHXW8DQUQFjAOegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw20RCslFH-qxgVFD7pmTPCa

There are quite a few additional routes that aren't in this topo. There was more info in bar at camp Tsarasoa.

Regarding Out of Africa - Great route. Long but you can move fairly quickly due to the bolts and the nature of the climbing. It is slightly involved walking off the top if you've not been up there before.  In the dark it would even more so, but it is doable as some in our group did it in the dark, though it did sound mildly epic. Reportedly some people sleep at the top in a cave and get the local climbing guide to meet them at the top with sleeping bags, food and water etc. 

There are loads of other routes to go at and not all the routes have the long run outs between bolts the place is famous for. 

One thing to consider is the sun. We probably went too later in the year (September) and got a little baked. It was too hot most of the time to climb directly in the sun and that left us chasing the shade which wouldn't come onto the walls till 12.30 to 2pm depending on the wall (obviously this will change with the time of year). This didnt give us much time to get up the massive walls there before sunset (6pm on the dot). Consequently we mainly did the shorter routes (which are still long) or abbed off before we got to the top. Additionally the heat mixed with the super rough rock meant skin would wear through fast. We had to take rest days not because we were tired but because we had no skin left. Hopefully at the time of year you're going you can climb all day long in both the shade and sun.

The drive from the airport is possibly the most dangerous part of the trip and not particularly comfortable. If I went again I think I'd pay a bit more for a decent car / 4wd rather than the transit type van we had with holes in the floor. But I guess that part of the mini-adventure.

Regarding antimalarials some of us took them some didn't. I looked up the elevation of the camp before we left and I think it was just below 1000m so is borderline regarding altitude protecting against malaria. I took malarone with no problems and it didnt cost too much in the grand sceme of things considereing the other costs. Cheapest place at the time was Asda but you had to book in for a pharmacist appointment so just ended up buying it online.


Paul B

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#22 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 13, 2019, 09:43:17 am
Thanks Seebo, that's awesome. Were there any stand out routes that you did?
« Last Edit: March 13, 2019, 09:54:36 am by Paul B »

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#23 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 13, 2019, 10:15:37 am
Thanks for the link to Tobias Wolf! I read somewhere some sort of 'guidebook' was supposed to be published by mid 2019.
 
Want to go for 2 months in juli/aug 2020, with plenty time to repeat routes and maybe put one up ourselves.


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#24 Re: Madagascar (Tsaranoro)
March 13, 2019, 11:18:13 am
Thanks for the link! It is one of a handful of remote (for me) climbing destinations I would like to visit before I die.

Tobias Wolf's blog is also a very good source for high-quality information on (very) difficult multipitch routes worldwide. I post the link here http://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/ mostly for my self as it is surprisingly hard to find using google.

 

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