[Yossarian]

I’ve decided to cast my Project 8a net slightly wider, and so am looking for some recommendations of some quality routes to progress through the 7s in the Cheddar area.

I’ve had Split Rock Quarry in mind as a potential TR solo venues for a while, with Smashing of Amps as something to try out before too long.

In terms of Cheddar itself, I’ve climbed at the Wave, though years ago (1993/4?) before it was bolted. It looks perfect for me, being relatively short and steep. Bursting the Wave might then be another 8a target, unless anyone wants to put me off? The Wave also seems to be quite well-suited for TRing solo if I can’t find anyone to drag down.

I don’t know much about the rest of Cheddar - should probably fork out for the M Crocker guidebook as my ancient Avon and Cheddar is both massively out-of-date and lost in a box somewhere.

Ideally looking for 7a-8a, power endurance without insanely hard cruxes.

[Duma]

Bursting the Wave is nails, def harder for me than Liquid Crystal and A Day Called Zero (the other 8a's on the wave). It's probably less bouldery than those two though.
Seven months later 7c is good once you're past the horrible first moves, and power endurance. Lapping Raw Deal 7a might be OK for pe, big steep moves on good holds.
Valley of the Blind 7c at Lion Rock is one of the best things in cheddar and not too cruxy, good rest halfway though so maybe not power endurance as such.
Best 8a I've done in Cheddar is Sweet Tufa on The Tsunami, and it's proper pe, sadly often wet so maybe not the best project if you're coming from London.
I'm currently falling off Right Hand Man 8a at the Remnant, about 20 continuous moves for the hard bit? Still feels like a couple of nails moves in there to me though!

[Yossarian]

Brilliant, thanks Duma.

Re the Tsunami and conditions in general, what’s the score re seepage? Does the Wave seep less? Is it best to leave till later in the spring do you think, or would it be worth an exploratory trip in the next few weeks? Assuming there’s no monsoon / huge dump of snow arriving imminently...

[monkoffunk]

Agree re Severn Months Later (I laybacked the start rather than horrible jam) and Valley of the Blind really excellent.

Pride Evans Cave is absolutely worth a visit, House Burning Down probably best 7b+ I’ve done, really good varied route. Directoonima good there at 7c, and various others. If you get those then you have Ghetto Bouteille at 8a that links from start of Pride Evans Locker to hole on House Burning Down and finishes up Directoonima, and is by all accounts excellent.

[Duma]

Brilliant, thanks Duma.

Re the Tsunami and conditions in general, what’s the score re seepage? Does the Wave seep less? Is it best to leave till later in the spring do you think, or would it be worth an exploratory trip in the next few weeks? Assuming there’s no monsoon / huge dump of snow arriving imminently...

Pretty much everything was dry yesterday, and it was too hot in the sun for anything tricky.
Wave doesn't really seep much. Tsunami wall is much worse for staying wet.

[guypercival]

More great 7’s than you can shake a stick at down at Cheddar.
The Tsunami is the worst for seepage and Sweet Tufa takes ages to dry unfortunately.
If you are down at Cheddar don’t miss out on the following; the Slick Red Road 7c, The Harder they Fall 7b+, Barbarian 7b+, Draggin’ Along 7c+, Everything on Spacehunter wall, Sunset Butress, Mettle Detector 7c+, Shangri La plus loads loads more.

Bursting the Wave is not only hard but has really horrible painful finger locks. The wave is ok and has some good routes but feels a bit rubbish compared to the other non-quarried walls.

An 8a project could be Lion’s Pride a 3* route.

Split rock is a great place to shunt. Really easy to get to the top and the whole wall is gently leaning. The 7c’s are great and SOA is a classic. It was easy to project on a shunt. The whole wall dries nice and quickly as well.

I have Martin Crocker’s latest guide in mint condition for sale at £12.00 posted if you fancy.
(£20 in the shops.)

[remus]

An 8a project could be Lion’s Pride a 3* route.

Lion rock in general is pretty good. Some of the other 8as on there could make good projects. They're link ups but I think the climbing is pretty good in all cases.

[Yossarian]

This all sounds amazing. Pretty syked by these recommendations - thanks everyone.

The Wave holds some appeal partly because it was where I did my first lead. We wandered about without a guidebook and picked something that didn’t look too bad. The route turned out to be Toxic Shock which was E2 back then, with one bolt near the top. I remember getting very pumped, dicking around with hexes, and falling off quite a lot.

Guy - will message you re guidebook.